AzzurrA

not necessarily... if you have a warped rotor, when you brake it will grab the high points on the rotor, but not the low points, effectively making it an "on/off/on/off" type effect... now if the other rotor isn't warped, it will be on the whole time... and when the warped rotor gets to 'off', the rotor that isn't warped will still be grabbing, and pull the car to the side, effectively making you turn the wheel to keep it in a straight line....

i pose a bit of a question to you all... Would R32 GTR rims (16 x 8, +30 offset) fit on an R32 GTS-t, without hitting on anything (assuming stock calipers/rotors) and without rubbing on the guards?

could be a number of things mate... your best bet is to take it to a reputable brake/suspension workshop, and have them take a look at it... its just not worth the risk of taking compromises and stuffing around when it comes down to the handling or braking of your car....

any idea what the offset of the rims are? could make a nice upgrade for my R32 GTS-t, i just need to find out if they're going to stick out from the guards too much or not any idea of the weight?

and they are also more expensive, not legal for road use unless you can find an engineer to give you a certificate for them (in which case they have to have complete dust boots etc over them), and wear at a greater rate than bushes

Okay... i have a setup very similar to the whiteline one that Sydneykid is selling, and i find it is quite good.... though it is probably getting to the borderline of being a bit soft on the track, with high-grip tyres (i.e. semi-slicks or slicks)... (the car tends to fall over a bit)... however, the beauty of bilsteins is you can get them revalved to suit your purpose... so if it is getting to that point, where you are finding they're a little too soft, work out what you want it valved at and get it changed as for reliability etc.... as predator was saying, you can take a stock car out to the track and have fun, without having to worry about too many things going bang, as long as it is maintained well, and its not out there for too long... I have done 1 trackday at QR, and all i have in terms of go fast mods is a pod filter and a turbo back exhaust, yet i was lapping right up there with some of the faster cars... why? because my focus has been on suspension and handling first (though the power is coming soon ) The faster cars were eating me on the straights, but through the corners and under brakes, i was making that ground back rather quickly... I ran with a stock radiator that had the coolant changed just before i bought it around a year ago (got it from a caryard, it had fresh coolant in it when i bought it) though after the trackday it was looking a bit dirty (i'm assuming some gunk was dislodged by the high revs etc) however i didn't see more than around 91 - 92 degree water temps, after 7 laps of QR... My biggest concern was that in the later laps of the session, i was getting a bit of detonation... i am assuming this is because the standard intercooler was getting a bit heat soaked, so i'm looking at upgrading that before i head back out again. So basically, you should be able to run for short sessions with little more than a stock car with new spark plugs, engine oil, make sure the radiator isn't clogged with gunk, make sure the brake fluid is fresh (i.e. isn't a few years old) make sure your gearbox and diff fluid are topped up etc.... and you should have a fun time! (assuming your car is in good condition and maintained properly, i.e. your water pump/oil pump aren't failing, timing belt is fine, blah blah blah)

i shall reply after bathurst has finished, with my rather limited experience (but a couple of things i have noticed)

not ALL R32's are cheap mate... i paid $17k for mine just on a year ago now, and that was the going rate for them back then (Mine is a '92 model) and since then have spent probably 8k on it (upgrading, not fixing) and if i was to sell it i would be asking around 18k for it... some of you may say that i'm dreaming... well, thats your opinion.. to me, it is worth alot more than that, as it is in better condition now than when i bought it... so not everything is these cheap sub 10k 1989 crappers that are coming out of japan at the moment....

re: the respray... it could have just had shitty paint (i.e. acid rain/fallout, left in the sun/peeling/fading, not looked after etc) I honestly don't think there's a problem with panel work, as long as it has been carried out properly, and a decent inspection by yourself, and someone who knows what they're doing would soon point out anything thats not kosher... I.e. if you go look at it, take someone who knows their skylines, and get them to have a look at the car with you and give you their honest opinion... and then go back another day (don't buy the same day!!!! always think about things!!!) with a panelbeater or something, or take it to a panelbeater and get them to go over the car, make sure there's nothing dodgey in the repairs (if it has any, which it probably will)

Just out of interest, what is involved in rolling the lip on the guards? I'm looking at some 17 x 8 (+32) and 17 x 9 (+38) for my R32 GTS-t... if its a big drama to roll them, have to get guards sprayed etc, i might go for some slightly smaller rims, heh

mate, can i please have a pic of the bride Zeta II please?

or even a BMW M3, like i did, with an otherwise stock R32 GTS-t

Not really... because just like with the last 2 movies, you'll get all the p-plater dickheads out there trying to drive/act like they do in the movie, writing themselves, their cars, and other people off, and generally acting like complete retards... hence attracting even MORE unwanted attention to the modified car scene... not that we need it, seeing as the 'fast and furious' generation has already ruined it for everyone.

I'm interested to know this as well!

lmao... please... hot4's is this way.... www.hot4s.com.au and BoostCruising is this way... www.boostcruising.com you'll fit right in on either of these forums... Thankyou very much... please don't come again!

Hehe, that was the whole point of the exercise of trying to find lighter rims... as i am starting to do some sprint days, and want some lighter rims for the benefits they give to a track car... if i was purely after looks, the weight wouldn't bother me

omg uleh, you'll be fulleeee hectik with the habibis, when you're cutting tuff laps!!!! siiiiiiiik

they have a shock dyno at their marooka store... they said it would cost me between $50 and $75 per shock to get mine tested

i won't be using mercury again for any of my work, but each to their own. However, if you do use them, get someone independant to check after they're finished I use Shaun at Goodyear Strathpine... great guy and pretty switched on, does top work etc.. he races an Evo in some form of rally so he know a bit about what he's talking about They're also a Fulcrum Queensland dealer.

what stud pattern / offset are the SE37's

i'm dealing with them at the moment.. got rear-ended about 3 weeks ago, so i was going to let it go through the other persons insurance, but RACQ was dicking me around something shocking (other person was insured through them, and because i wasn't with RACQ, they basically couldn't give 2 stuffs about me and treated me like crap, even though it was THEIR driver at fault) I got the car assessed on the friday, and was told i would have an answer either that afternoon or saturday, giving me the go-ahead for repairs... tuesday the following week i still hadn't heard anything, so i called them and they gave me this dribble about the report having to be snail-mailed, blah blah, so i called just cars (My insurance company) and told them to sort it out, so now the claim is going through them, and since then its been generally pain-free (it went in on monday to get repaired) I've dealt with them before (animal ran on road in front of me, i swerved and missed the animal, but smacked the gutter/pole), and that was fine as well, no dramas with them make sure all the mods are listed, and that they are LEGAL (they will not cover you if you have illegal mods)

what sort of offset are they, Rich? "Tell 'em the offset, son!"

you're wrong it is better/easier if you use your old pads to bed the new rotors in.. i'll write up the process, according to DBA, when i get home tonight

"2 (A Pair) FRONT RDA PERFORMANCE SLOTTED ROTORS" so they're RDA Rotors, and only the front 2...

glad to hear you got it working, mate because it means i'm not going insane