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hey mate, does this still have the water/oil lines and the elbow?

where abouts did you get the test done, and how much did it cost, how long etc?

just remember... although flutter may be fullleeee siiik yuleh, its also bad for your turbo... give me no flutter any day!

mate, could i please have pics of the *GT28 and flange adapter *BN Sports Widebody Kit *4 x White DriftR's sent to [email protected] (get rid of the 'NOSPAM' from the email address) Thanks Jason P.s. where are you located? or did i miss that?

i've got the same noise in my R32 GTS-t, its done it for a fair while now, it only started when i put new pads in. I'll be getting DBA 4000 Slotted R33 Discs, R33 Calipers, braided lines, master cylinder stopper soon, so i'll see if that gets rid of it

Spotted Today: XXR32 - Charcoal Grey or Black 32 GTS-t - seen her around a few times now, always wave, but i always get snobbed KLS86 (I think?) - Charcoal Grey (?) R33 GTS-T with a cute blonde driving, again, i waved, but i got snobbed... nobody loves me If anyone sees me out and about, give me a toot and a wave... I'll be in a White R32 GTS-t with the plates [sIR32]

RB25DE... EEEW

in on page 1! Hrm, waiting to see what engine i have! Is it just me, or did we lose access to QLD Members section?

say for someone who is looking at doing track work (i.e. not drifting, but actually racing against cars/clocks etc) what would be the best sort of diff? 1 way LSD? or 1.5 way? The way i see it, is if you're doing circuit work, you don't want the diff to be locked when you back off the throttle, otherwise its going to lift-off oversteer easier, or push understeer if you're already in the corner and it can't break traction, therefore, i would think that the 1 way would be best (for circuit anyway)?

don't they have 3 on there already though? if so, any idea what their spacing is?

Hi all, I have just had a whiteline works kit installed on my car, and i was led to believe the centre of hub to guard measurements would be 345mm front, and around 350 rear, which is what i was aiming for (alignment reasons etc) anyway, the car is much lower than anticipated with the heights at (rounded to within a couple of mm) Front Left - 330mm Rear Left - 330mm Front Right - 320mm Rear Right - 330mm Now, i believe what has happened is that the workshop didn't realise that the spring seats were adjustable, and just left them at whatever they were originally set at. The car is going back to the workshop tomorrow to get the spring seats adjusted up, i'm just wondering how far apart the grooves are spaced? would it be 10mm, or higher? (Just so i can give them an idea of how many grooves it needs to go up) Thanks in advance for the help Jason

civi_joe, i had the heights from Centre of hub to Guard written down somewhere, but i can't seem to find them any more Here's a photo of the car with them fitted though, so you can see the height it sat at: Black32: How does $30 sound? I wasn't intending to seperate them because i don't think many people would be interested in just the front pipe section of it.

Hi All! Need to make some room in my garage very quickly, so i have some R32 and other assorted parts that i've accumulated over a while for sale... *R32 GTR Rear Wing - $100 *Lowered Springs (front and rear) suit R32 GTS-t - $150/set - SOLD *Bridgestone Potenza Shocks (front and rear) suit R32 GTS-t - $250/set *Woodgrain Steering Wheel - $30 *R32 Boss Kit - $40 - SOLD *Standard R32 GTS-t Front and Rear Swaybars - $25 each *Standard 2 1/2" Cat - $25 *Standard R32 GTS-t Dump & Front Pipe - $25 *Standard R32 GTS-t Crossover Pipe - $20 - SOLD *Standard R32 GTS-t Rims x 4 (With Tyres, Lots of Tread) - $300/set Non Skyline Related Parts: AE82 4AGE Inlet manifold - $80 AE86 diff housing (no centre) - $20 AE86 rear drum brakes - $Free with Diff Housing Holden 202 Inlet manifold - $20 Holden 202 Varijet Carby - $10 Blown Amp - $Free Pics of Skyline Parts Below:

i get around 400km/40 litres, city driving

mine runs at around 71 - 72 degrees usually (in winter, with all these 20 degree days we've been having), but today it was a bit warmer (air temp was around 25, and sunny) and the car was running at around 77 - 78 degrees, went for a hard drive over some mountains and it didn't exceed 84 degrees.

do you have any pics of the GTR seat? if so, could you please email them to jwgeh at tpg.com.au

you should be able to buy them straight from Nissan?

as above, is the seat still for sale? is it passenger or drivers side? i take it the rails are still attached to the bottom? do you have any pics? would you freight to brisbane?

i start it up, let it idle for about 30 seconds to a minute, and then drive around under about 2 - 3 grand for 10 minutes (off boost)... Before turning the car off, i make sure i drive the last 4 - 5 mins off boost, that way you can switch the car off straight away pretty much

Hey mate Will you be making future visits to Brisbane? I would like to get my ECU Tuned, however, i want to get it done when i've got all the mods on there (Looking at Bigger Injectors, Bigger Turbo, etc etc, and it won't be ready by this time....

shut down? its 4:32am you idiot. Some people actually have to work, and aren't a dole bludger like yourself. Now, its obvious i put a wrong number into the calculator... who cares? you are still wrong, so don't try and cover it up with this crap that you're dribbling at the moment. Also, about the type m's having 160kw stock (217.53952hp (by your calculations) AT THE ENGINE), there's a big difference between hp @ the engine, and at the wheels mate. When i said I was referring to 215 HP @ WHEELS, (just as you were), in which case my point still stands... YOU ARE WRONG! You were saying that they have that at the WHEELS stock. I am not disputing that they would have that at the ENGINE, but you were saying that they have that at the WHEELS. Now, don't go chopping and changing, you pick either one or the other, and stick with it, which is it going to be? Furthermore, if you think that by adding a pod filter and a 3" exhaust, you're going to get more than the factory output at the ENGINE, at the WHEELS, than you are indeed more of a retard than i initially took you to be. Oh Noes! You haven't replied before i've even typed the post! SHUT DOWN! P.S. I do believe school holidays are over, so shouldn't you be getting back to class? P.P.S. I'm going to work now, and i have no more time to argue with idiots like yourself, so feel free to say i'm "Shut Down" as much as you like, it doesn't really bother me mate.

Any interest? I've got until probably Tuesday of next week to make up my mind if i want to keep it or sell it, as its booked to get $4k worth of suspension upgrades done to it. Now, i don't really want to put that on and then sell it, as its a bit pointless...

real type m's come with 215hp stock? i'm sorry mate, but you're wrong. Type M's come with 158 - 160kw, stock (around 208hp) and thats at the ENGINE. This car has nearly that at the WHEELS. There's a big difference mate. So please, before you go trying to be a smartarse and cut people down, research your facts a little. Good luck with the sale mate, i'm testing the waters with mine at the moment as well, if it doesn't sell, i'll just mod it some more

I've dropped the price to a more realistic figure, however, in my opinion its worth more than this. Price Drop to $17,890

I stuck with the stock rims due to the weight difference between them and most other 'larger' rims that most people seem to get (and also the price difference between 16" semi-slicks and 18" semi-slicks). The less weight (unsprung weight) the better the handling. However, if you really are interested, i'm sure some "bling" 18's could be arranged