bradsm87

That's what I'm trying to find out. The PARTS that make up the coilover (maybe minus the springs) ARE 100% made by BC Racing. That's the only thing the public know for sure.

Pedders XA coilovers are clearly made of the same hardware as BC Racing V1 coilovers.

Definately 245/35R19 to keep the correct outer diameter. 245 on a 9.5 looks just right IMO too. Not muffin topping and ever so slightly stretched. That's if it's an R33 or R34. R32's have a different outer diameter. 255/30R19 would be right for an R32.

If u want more grip, look at your wheel alignment. Sounds like what yoiu need is a set of wheel spacers to space the wheel out to fill the guards. Muffin topping tyres is not cool at all lol. U wouldn't want to run more than 265. It certainly won't look better, that's for sure!

Yep their factory replacement style shocks are Monroes. The Coilovers are definately made by BC. I'm just interested in if Pedders use better valving that BC coilovers come with as BC's are pretty generic.

Just interested if anyone on the inside might know the answer to this question. The thing that's strange is that Pedders VE Commodore coilovers have been out for nearly 2 years and are clearly made of BC parts but BC only just released some under their brand name. I know BC Racing shocks are pretty much all valved the same or at least run generic valving for the spring rate rather than the car. Maybe Pedders do or specify their own valving to justify the extra $700 for the same thing?

One topic I'm very interested in is the difference between Whiteline Plus and Nolathane if any. They are both owned by Redranger and they are CLEARLY the same moulds used for bushes. I've never seen Nolathane used by pretty much anyone serious or pretty much anyone outside the Commodore crowd. Nolathane is cheaper for a bush that's moulded in the same mould but can it be possible for the quality of material to be different? Also is it true that Pedders bushes are just re-badged Nolathane? Edit: I just called Redranger and The Nolathane and Whiteline Plus products are exactly the same thing, just a different colour. Why don't more ppl in the import crowd use Nolathane products more?

DO NOT shave the head more than just a surface because it'll stuff up your cam timing and possibly make the timing belt go slack. Just order some custom 9.2:1 pistons. You won't be disappointed!

rod length to stroke ratio as well as bore to stroke ratio play a much bigger role in torque that capacity per cylinder imo.

Way cheaper and same result to buy some 2nd hand ones and have them cleaned and flow tested.

the leaner u go past stoich, the more u'll have to open the throttle, adding more fuel anyway.

about 9.7:1 and 18psi would be the highest I'd go on pump 98. I know a guy who runs an 11:1 SR20 running 23psi on E85!!!

That would be sweeet but aren't the intake AND exhaust flanges different?

It does support AFM's but I'd be gutting the AFM's (Meshes and sensors) and using the MAP sensor on the ECU.

Any coilovers for $1200 will be shit for the street. U won't get Bilstein shocks AND King springs for $1200. Just get a full set of new Bilstein B6 shocks and get a couple more circlip grooves machined into em to lower em using stock springs.

High comp is an awesome idea. I'm tossing up between an R33 GTR or an S15 for my next car. Either way, i'll be getting custom 9.5:1 pistons. If I get a GTR, i'll run -9 turbos and Tomei 260 cams with a Nistune, fuel pressure reg and stock AFM's for an easy, cheap HELLA RESPONSIVE 320rwkw. Shaving the head or head gasket thickness is NOT the way to go about it though. It will stuff up the cam timing for sure. You're bringing the cam sprockets closer to the crank which makes them turn slightly.

Absolutely if u want more response. The AFR and timing as it comes on to boost makes all the difference to response. Finish the exhaust and get a tune and that'll improve greatly.

why? what huge flaw does factory cam timing have?

The front pipe and better or no cat will help response. The reduction in back pressure will help as well as the extra ignition timing it'll allow u to run.

Stock cams already have FARK ALL overlap. Reducing it even more will be very hurtful for top-end power. Tomei cams with stock cam sprockets are set up to have a great balance of response and power out of the box. You're getting a small turbo to get good response. If I had to keep stock cams, i'd either keep the stock sprockets or install cam gears to increase top-end. Stock cams are already naturally good for response due to the tiny duration.

6x injectors = about 900 1x fuel pressure reg = about 180 Because u only want a tiny bit more than the stock injectors will do. An increase in fuel pressure will get that easily. I personally think cam gears are WAY overrated in the skyline community. U already have stock cams which are tiny, why further reduce top-end power from the already tiny cams? I understand tweaking cam timing on huge cams but i've never seen any evidence to show a gain in changing cam timing on stock cams. Fuel pressure reg and a set of Tomei Poncam type B cams cost about the same as injectors and camgears. I know which one would make bucketloads more all through the revs.

Compliance cat - YUCK! De-cat, fuel pressure reg and tune and it'll love 310rwkw at about 17psi. U can still tune a little beyond the max of the AFM's by just tuning at the highest readable load cell.

Well not unless he/she specifically wants to run fewer external coils in wasted spark which isn't ideal and most likely not much if any of an upgrade. To run some wicked external coils for an RB, u'll want 6x AC Delco D585 (LS2 Truck) coils, leads to match and just wire them up to power/ECU. They have ignitors built-in so U can get rid of the factory ignitor (if it's an RB26 or series 1 R33 or earlier) Info on the D585 coils here: http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm They should have no problem running a 1.1mm gap and LOTS of boost!

CAR: S14 200SX (SR20DET with 9:1 comp) POWER: 270rwkw BOOST: 24psi TYPE OF ETHANOL: E50 (50% just fuel E100/50% BP 98) PLUG: BKR6EIX GAP: 0.8mm COLD START: Great in summer. Not too bad in winter. Was shit with 7's. HOT: Perfect I did heaps of research about spark plugs and when the ignition system is near it's limits like mine is, the smaller tip of Iridium plugs allow a spark with less required voltage. It doesn't have as much potential for a big hot spark like copper though so copper is still best if the ignition system can actually spark. Used to run 7's but would cold start shit and missfire like all hell when u plant it after a bit of cruising. 6's are perfect.

T04Z is stone age. Go a GT4088R or even better, wait a bit longer for the GTX4088R