bradsm87

hmm. That A/R doesn't seem right to me. I obviously believe U but shit that's pushing a lot through a tiny housing. a 0.82 divided has literally less inside area than a .63.

U can get the piping shorter and less prone to engine bay heat if u make a 300ish degree bend at the throttle body to angle it straight for the battery tray and straight through the hole. That's what my brother did on the intercoolers he's done on RB's. If U want to keep using the holes on the passenger side, I'd only do that if I had an intercooler with end tanks top and bottom with outlets facing to the side like the GKTech no holes kit (not for skylines but u'll get the idea about the intercooler design).

I REALLY hate putting down Australian companys but that is exactly what I was talking about. The core design is terrible. The ratio of coolant to charge air area is way wrong and tube and fin intercoolers with the charge air going through the tubes like in an air to air is very inefficient in a water to air core. Best is a very fine bar and plate design with lots of fin surface area. Also the coolant passages don't need to be anywhere as big as the air passages because the coolant can transfer heat much easier than water. This means more area for the charge air in the same physical dimensions. Plazmaman or ARE are the way to go. I agree that getting the heat out of the water is the hardest part and a huge challenge. I don't even know if it'll be any good but i'm willing to take the risk. I'm only aiming for 220-240rwkw and the car has heaps of frontal area to use for the radiators. (one in the middle where a FMIC goes , fully ducted and one off to the side where an oil cooler is usually mounted)

Higher comp is more efficient but too much with not good enough fuel means detonation. Higher comp will make more power for the same level of boost, all else being equal. Higher comp will bring boost on quicker. Lower comp allows running more boost without detonation on the same fuel.

The divided .82 turbine housing is WAY too small. it's equivalent to about 0.5-0.6 a/r in a regular housing. Definately not great having a regular manifold and divided turbine housing either. Port match the exhaust manifold to the head and get a .82 regular turbine housing and it should be all sweet!

Nah under vacuum if anything, would hold the wastegate closed harder. I agree vacuum is bad tho.

stretching them the other way to the direction they're designed to go, wearing them out quicker. The dodgiest bit is at 60-90% throttle tho. The wastegate thinks the turbo's only producing 10psi so closes right up, meanwhile the turbo could be pushing 25psi before the throttle body. U can hear it as u back off a bit. Dodgy imo.

It's physics mate. It MUST be better. Things move SO slowly in this industry because ppl have that attitude. The stronger forged aluminium can be made thinner. Thinner hub, thinner blades. More room for air. Less disruption of the air. They are better 100% unless someone figured out how to bend the rules of the universe. Also a compressor map is like a dyno sheet. U run 2 cars on the same dyno and one makes more power. That car has more power!

Oh man T04Z's are so shit these days but ppl keep buying them because it's such a long recognised turbo. A GTX3582R will smash it for response AND power hands down. It's like a 1995 turbo vs a 2010 turbo. The T04Z should be discontinued except for rebuild parts but ppl keep buying it because they've heard of it.

Just before the TB is definitely better than plenum. GTR's run in plenum from factory because they have ITBs. I don't think vacuum would be very good for the diaphragms in actuators either. The boost you want to control is the boost at the engine, what boost gauges and map sensors see. This is why i think on the throttle side is better than at the compressor outlet.

Also an 1000hp RB26 would be rediculously laggy! An built RB30 bottom end, head work and a GTX3582R 1.06 should get U 700 horsepower but I wouldn't go bigger than that.

Just before the throttle body is best IMO. It also helps boost stop dropping off in the high revs. There is a bit of lag and pressure drop for the air to get through the piping and intercooler. U can use this to your advantage by making the wastegates lag too, bringing on boost earlier and harder. After the throttle is dodgy IMO because U can be at 80% throttle and the turbos want to keep on making boost. U can hear it on cars setup like this. U back off the throttle a bit and u can hear the turbo spinning up like crazy.

LOL! 1000 horses?

U can also get defected for having a total diameter over 15mm over stock so you pretty much can't win with 20's. I'd prefer to have the correct outer diameter than the correct load rating.

There's a LOT of shit out there in terms of crap water to air intercoolers. I think that crap (75% of the stuff out there) gives it a bad name. I'm gonna give it a go in what i think would work with a massive overkill of radiator area (multiple radiators). Also the huge total surface area of the fins inside the intercooler is hundreds of times more than the outer surface of the heat exchanger. i can't see how it'd be affected by under bonnet temps any more than it does to intercooler piping. The thought of 30cm of total piping length plus an intercooler half the volume of a conventional fmic is too good not to at least try. i want near instant throttle response and full boost at about 2500rpm!

It'll be a water to air intercooler. The water stays cool for a fair while after u slow down. 12psi is pretty low tho. Hottest days here in Tas are about 35 degrees at the very most and i won't have air con or anything. Also I'll be running a Haltech with air temp compensation set up to run richer once air temps get too high for my liking.

What about running a highly efficient turbo, 12psi, really good intercooling and a big turbine housing? That's my plan until E85 comes to the pump here then will re-tune on about 17psi.

CAMS CAMS CAMS. Also turbo is way too big for that power level. Unnecessarily laggy.

Haha wierd coincidence. I was just thinking about that before reading this thread. They should make a GTX3576R. I really think Garrett make good compressors, cores, turbines and housings but do a shit job of matching them all together in some cases. Mitsubishi and Borg Warner have their compressor wheels and turbine wheels much more similar in size.

225/30's will be way smaller than 245/40's. U won't have a problem.

GT2860RS's are very prone to creeping. You can port out the internal gate hole a fair bit and still seals perfectly with the same flap. It's always fixed the problem for me.

A Garrett GTX3076R would be the go. That should crack about 480 rear wheel horsepower and come on to boost earlier than that.

What cams do you have? If the answer is stock, 550hp at the wheels is a bit excessive.

Yep that's it. Still lots of fun! I certainly wasn't saying it's bad, just it could be better.

Yep u can FORCE the car to make power early but there's a lot of heat and pressure in that exhaust manifold. ESPECIALLY with a GT3082R because u have a huge compressor wheel wanting to keep making power and the turbine half just can't take any more. The 82mm compressor wheel isn't even in it's sweet spot yet and the GT30 .63 rear end just can't take any more. If that exact same car had a GTX3071R .82 running the same boost which is a much better match of compressor to turbine, it would make full boost earlier, WAY more torque through the midrange and make more top-end as well.