bradsm87

probaby because a GT3082 is a totally rubbish mis-matched turbo and to make things worse, if that's all the power it made, it's probably .63 which makes the mis-match of compressor and turbine way worse again. If u get in a car with a RB25 and a GT3076R .82 and a really good tune and it WILL wow you!

It's prob mostly a toe issue. If u didn't get a wheel alignment after, i reckon u've got shit loads of toe-out which wears out the insides of the tyres.

OK so high flows can be dodgy yes. Why don't you just go with the S15 injectors? They should be good for 300rwkw.

why not -9's? Newer more modern turbo. Same response, more efficient, more power, same price. I dunno why they don't discontinue -7's and put an end to all this confusion.

The physical dimensions of the wheels are one of MANY variables. The -9's have newer more modern wheels which flow more and more efficiently without needing to be bigger or lighter. To the previous posts about the -7 turbos, I'll say it again, -9's AREN'T any laggier than -7's so there is NO advantage of -7's! If u only want to make a certain amount of power, just run -9's on low boost!

My GT2871R wasn't that bad but it was noticably worn. That was after 10000km and have always used Apexi air filters. Very bizarre. I just pulled the compressor housing off and cleaned the wheel and smoothened the rough bits on the fins with wet n dry. I'd just do that and spend the money elsewhere on the car.

SuperPro or whiteline are $100 for the pair from most places. They have the same amount of adjustment.

If u don't wanna spend much, just get SuperPro offset bushes. If want more caster which will feel and handle better, go with Kazama ones. They're high quality and have dust boots on the rod ends which will make em last way longer. They're around the 300 dollar mark.

What fuel are U running? My mate is making 464rwkw on -5's and 50% E85 / 50% BP98 at that same boost level. That's with Tomei 260 cams and a Jun 2.7L kit.

Sorry I assumed gender No offense but either the dyno is way out of whack or the ambient air temp sensor has been put somewhere hot in the engine bay to make the figure look higher.

I think the -7 is a typo because earlier the same person says he has -9's. I've got a mate making 464rwkw with -5's on 50% e85/50% BP Ultimate so 360 on -9's would be acheivable.

GT3071R .63 with a proper T3 internal gate housing will be ideal for 250. Should be able to make 250 on low boost too. Also, if you want more power down the track, all you need to do is put a .82 housing on and more boost and it'll see 300.

18x9 +38 physically WON'T FIT. The rim/tyre will strike the upright on the inside before you can even get the wheel nuts done up. no problem with 255's at all but they really want to be on around about a 9.5 wide +20-ish offset.

You DEFINATELY don't need or want an aftermarket intercooler and you don't need pod filters either. They'll just attract attention. A good start will be to remove the boost restrictor near the boost solenoid (search and U will find) and get a decent legal exhaust including aftermarket dump pipes and y pipe, a high flow cat and a legal cat-back or get a cat-back made. That should get you to about 220rwkw. Next step would be a pair or 707160-9 turbos, a Power FC (unplug the hand controller once tuned and nobody will know) and a Turbotech boost controller (hidden). That should get you 300rwkw

OF COURSE it's gonna be .63 or thereabouts, especially knowing HKS generally put quite small housings on turbos. No point putting a T3 .82 housing on a little turbo like that IMO. The GT3071R is a much more efficient turbo AND comes already with a T3 flange so will bolt on to stock manifold with a spacer plate and either weld external gate flange to stock manifold or get an I/W turbine housing. Instead of making 250rwkw on 18-20psi like a 2871, u might make 250 on only 1 bar and have potential for more power down the track.

Ur replacing stock lightweight forged wheels with cheap-ass weak heavy wheels? +12 would be flush with the guards, requiring the rear lip to be rolled up which is easy done. They'd be the ones to go with. Next best thing after that would be +20.

normal. It's just 2 used factory caster rod brackets that have been boxed in, had a bar welded between them and a coat of silver paint. There is the original black paint under the silver paint.

Make sure you have good aftermarket dump pipes and good aftermarket front pipe (or sometimes called "y-pipe"), a metal type very high flow cat, then get a custom 2.75" cat-back with 2 or 3 straight-through oval mufflers. Will be quiet and will produce plenty of power over stock.

AH SHIT i thought u were only selling a pair (dunno why) NO WONDER my offer sounded low Will send u a new PM LOL.

Very keen on rims only. PM sent

In this example, the person asking the question wants the car lower than a normal spring/shock combo will allow without hitting bump stops.

springs that low on stock or stock replacement type shocks will just be bang bang bangin on bump stops.

U spend all the money on a great car like an r34 GTT now u don't wanna spend 2.5k on quality parts? Just get a Commodore man. I just don't understand why ppl with nice cars nearly all just rice em out with cheap tacky crap. If u do wanna do it right, Mono flex with 5.5kg/mm front and 5kg/mm rear would be ideal.

You won't get it as low as you want with replacement shock/spring combo. Best bet is Tein Mono Flex with softer springs. What car is it for?

I've tried heaps of mixes and i find 30% ethanol the best mix for our car. Can't go into it here on this phone but will go into more detail wen i get on a computer.