HotPlates

The new GTR isn't that big. It just that the R34 GTR is quite small. I beleive it's the smallest of all the GTR's anyway. Compare the sizes of the Evo and Supra to the R35 GTR in the posted picture. It puts the size of the R35 back into perspective.

Cheers.

First of all, what do you do for a job to have $55k to spend on a car being so young? Secondly, if you want to stay Japanese, the 350Z or the 2006+ 2.5L Subaru Liberty GT would be my pick for your preferences. Personally, I'd prefer the Liberty GT but only with the 2.5L turbo motor (2006+). They are AWD, look classy, come with leather seats, sunroof (optional), well set out interior with touches of chrome, good instrument panel with tacho sweep on start up, illuminated double centre cup holders, have plenty of go and 4 doors. No contest!

I've heard that the late batch of R33 series II ('97 onwards) have NEO RB25's. Is this true or myth? No speculations please.

For the most part cars that are from, say Japan or Germany for example, are cheaper in their home country, but more expensive outside of it due to taxes imposed by the country it is being imported to. But when it comes to Australia, we sell our cars cheaper overseas than we do locally. Now I'm not trying to do a comparison here between Japanese, German and Australian cars to justify this thinking (or lack of it), but this is really backward! I know of re-badged Holden's being sold in Saudi Arabia, England and America at much cheaper prices than sold in Australia. By and large, these 'Holden's' aren't bad cars either as Top Gear has pointed out on a few occassions now. So is this just primarily due to Holden wanting to get a 'footing' in these other markets? (although Saudi Arabia has been well established for a while now) Or is there something I am missing here? Last time I checked, our Holden's (as an all round car) being exported to the U.S. as Pontiacs are a much better car than most of their local brands.

That's ridiculous. I'm surprised the Dane's can afford to even drive a car.

This is true. Anyone who says the low down torque is greater in an SR is seriously mistaken. I have a late '97 R33 GTST and I have driven the S15 Jap spec and the lack of torque in the SR20DET was disappointing. The power delivery is very different. I thought VVT only kicks in on cars at higher revs which is their whole purpose - to save fuel at lower revs and have extra power when wanted at higher revs. When does VVT kick in on R34's? I'm pretty sure my R33 GTST series II has VVT but it kicks in at 5,500rpm and is very noticeable. I could be wrong but this was my understanding. I noticed the opposite of this. The SR definately revved out quicker compared to the RB25. This makes sense with the SR being only a 2.0L 4 pot. Weird. Silvia's are quick because of their weight advantage, which inherently makes them more of a fun car to chuck around. Although, they are more dangerous in the wet aswell because of this. The SR is more fuel economical than the RB's too as the newer versions have VVT. Also the build quality of Skyline's across the board are much better and more solid than the Silvia and 200SX. I like the SR20DET as it loves to be revved, but also has to be revved high to go anywhere fast which can become tiresome. On the other hand I like the RB25DET because it has noticably more low down torque than the SR and you don't have to rev it as high to achieve the same speed. Personally I'm a fan of more low down torque. It would be nice if the Skyline's didn't weigh as much as they do though. I don't think this really matters for the GTR though.

What's the viscosity of the Nulon though?

It will never happen as AWD makes the GTR faster around corners and off the line. I don't know how the GT2/3 manages to achieve such good cornering ability and yet be quicker. What's the weight difference between the GT2 and 911 turbo? (can't be bothered looking it up )

White looks hot!

Nissan never went out to bench mark the R35 GTR against the GT2. It was always a comparison between the 911 turbo and the GTR. Having said that, I wonder how the R35 GTR in GT2 spec (RWD, less luxuries, less weight etc) would fare. Not that Nissan will ever do this as their AWD is a massive advantage.

I haven't played in GT for years! I can't remember, buy can you drive an R33 GTST and mod it?

So what does everyone's oil pressure sit on after the car is warmed up? Mine sits at 1/4 way mark is that right? If you use a thicker viscosity oil will the pressure not drop as much?

I readily agree that it's disappointing that Nissan made the GTR so damn heavy. But, Nissan needed to compete somewhat with the likes of Porsche, and to have the same sort of previous generation GTR interior carry over is just not acceptable for the price they are demanding for a 'Nissan'. The interior is very well done IMO and distinct from other car makers, as is the exterior. Surely though, to strip 100kgs, Nissan would need to take out more than just the rear seats, replace some parts with carbon fibre and lose the adjustable suspension? The addition of a roll cage if they decide to go down that path will add more weight. Ideally, the GTR would be supreme if it lost 200kgs, but weight distribution would have to be taken into consideration. The V Spec and V Spec II models will be interesting. What's the anticipated weight loss anyone know?

If you know someone who has a high pressure steam cleaner household appliance then that will get them off intact. They are handheld units which you can buy from Kmart or Target.

do you have a lot of brake dust though?

^^^ You must have tried nearly everything under the sun by now! lol I've got the same problem, but my squealing is amplified when the rotors are wet after it's been raining. But this is where it gets weird.... after I wash my car, I pressure hose the rotors through the wheels. I do this because I think the brake dust may be contributing to the squealing. This HAS helped somewhat and I get squealing probably only 40% of the time now. It doesn't always squeal either which has baffled me. Again like you, the squealing is only when coming to a stop. Try running your finger over the rotor or around the inside spoke of your mags and see if you get a lot of brake dust. I also understand this was not an issue much with cars before they had to stop manufacturing asbestos brake pads. I could be wrong though. I mostly get squealing first thing in the morning, and at the occasional traffic light. But after that it's pretty good. I definately get less squealing in the summer though I have noticed.

The factory tyre pressure info for the standard 16's on an R33 is located on the inside of the drivers door for anyone wanting to know. I usually do 32 all round. Some cars require a couple extra psi in the front to compensate for the front being heavier than the rear. But always cross reference your car manufacturer and tyre manufacturers recommendations. The higher the psi above manufacturers recommendations the less tread you will have in contact with the road. For example, 36+ psi on a wet day for 16's is way too high and will cause your car to lose traction easier. This is because the centre of the tyres tread baloons out, therefore giving you less surface traction. This is also why people at the drags deflate their tyres so they have more rubber in contact with the surface for better traction and less wheel spin. So, more psi is better for fuel economy, but worse for traction. The opposite applies aswell. If you have non standard factory tyres then check for recommendations on the side wall or ring where you got them from.

First question, is the oil guage in the R33 dash for pressure or temp? I thought it was pressure but know not sure. The needle usually sits at just above the 1/4 mark once the car has warmed up. But it rises slowly to 1/2 way on the guage when the revs rise (say 4,000+ rpm), then drops again slowly to the 1/4 mark when at idle (eg. car stopped at traffic lights) Is this normal?

Manual or auto transmission? I use Redline gearbox oil and Motul 8100 or Chrono (full synthetic) for my engine oil. You should change your engine oil every 5,000kms too.

Didn't you just buy this or am I thinking of someone else?

what are VTEC Hondas like on fuel?

Skylines aren't any more expensive to maintain then any other sports car. People who have modded them may disagree, but mod any car and it will be more expensive no matter what car you have. In stock form, the Skyline is cheap to run for a sports car. 11L/100kms with regular squirts of boost is achievable. Do your 5,000km oil changes and regular maintenance and you will be fine. The Nissan RB series engines are bullet proof and are made to take a lot more power and abuse. Skylines are the best bang for your buck on the market. The equipment the cars have standard are better than its rivals aswell for the price.

I'm waiting for the Ninja 250R this February to see if it will be big enough for me (I'm 6'2") If not, I might go a Hyosung as they are the only big 250 on the market. I like the Honda VTR250, but they are too small and look kinda gay, plus expensive (not that the Kwaka isn't).

Give me Bumble Bee over any of these cars