someonestolecc

Heh - should have known. None of these places are open weekends. Just out of interest is it hard to install rear camber arms myself then take it for a wheel alignment? I'd like to save the extra $100 or so.

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help. That will definately be something I discuss at the suspension place! Right now I'm leaning to the circuit/drift setup and where there is a compromise a bit toward the circuit setup. This is simply cos for the road sliding everywhere isn't practical, whereas gripping is. Also with a set of smaller tyres on there with the mech diff and the foot even a little bit down on the accell it's not hard to powerslide - so it has plenty to drift. Thanks alot - I will let you know what I ended up with.

Sorry Busky I don't recall a price - I think it was around $160 though because I do recall thinking "I don't believe they are $80 a set.. i don't believe i lost practically $160 worth of parts." But then again that could be ENTIRELY wrong and not even in the ballpark - call nissan!

Since mine just arrived today are there any strategies I for me to employ for getting the most possible wear out of them? Like greasing them up and then putting a huge glob of vasoline over it? (that's as ingenius as i get with mechanic stuff)

Ah - thanks S-kid! Will give heasmans a ring first thing. Might even be able to make the silvia nsw cruise tomorz since Sydenham is kinda close to Liverpool! Any thoughts on the first part? I guess it would have already been discussed a hundred+ times over but noone has seemed to mention a compromise between circuit/touge styled driving and drift.. Thanks again.

PS pedders said it'd cost $104 or something to do a front n rear wheel alignment for coilovers.. why is it my local payless tyres says $40.... sounds to me like pedders are talking shizo. What's a reasonable price just for the wheel alignment? How long would it take a place to install rear camber upper arms assuming no complications?

Chatswood - woohoo somewhere I actually know that exists in Sydney!!! Damnit I have to choose if I wanna cruise or go to the suspension place. It's a pity if someone from around the northern beaches/north shore even city wants to go later and cruise down I'll come but I'd like to get a wheel alignment done first.... Hmm decisions decisions!! Drift day on tommorow as well

Hello, I'm going to get my car suspension aligned for the first time and my rear camber upper arms just arrived too! Next mission is to get them installed and everything aligned. I have some sort of tein adjustable coilovers, camber tops, adjustable tie rod ends and the aforementioned rear upper arms. My question is.... for a good compromise between touge styled driving (ie street), some weekend circuit warrior and some drift days what settings should i ask for? Currently the camber is set up "all the way in" - to a point where even there are only 2 screws on the top holding the shock in (ie the pair on the outside of the car) so they could dial more camber into it!! **** me dead, I'd prefer less camber and all 4 screws in as it was designed!! Starting point- Front toe in/out = 0 camber = 3 degrees Rear toe in/out = 0 camber = 1 degree or .5 degree What other settings are there? Do I need toe in/out ? Is this good/bad/ugly? I'd like to have reasonable tyre wear but we can't have it all so I'm prepared to wear the tyres and if I find I'm going through tyres too much I'll just get more conservative settings I'm just interested in keeping my AWD like handling. Right now the car handles like a demon (well) and really slinks round the corners (good). The rear seems to "sit up" a little more than I thought it would after I tightened up the rear strut so perhaps but it seems ok. I just know the cars out of whack so needs to be aligned! Suggestions please? (PS: it has struts/sways of some sort as well, is lowered (at highest height setting) and usually wears 18x8.5).

They must be good to know that by looking at your other car! (good entrepreneurs)

I enquired about them - apperantly they only come in a kit so you have to buy all the little metal peices which include the shims, plates etc. I'm can't remember if the pins are included. I had a diagram with all the peices from FAST but I've had a look and don't have the page with the actual kit on it (i seem to have every other brake diagram). If you call nissan and ask them for the skyline front caliper kit for all the little metal peices they should be able to give you the part number. Make sure you get them to fax you the page with the part number they're talkin bout circled, I've found sometimes they're talkin bout one thing, ordering another. I lost 3/4 of my rear shims.. I'm running without them now - seems to work ok Good luck.

That's it! Maybe I can get to the autocross ladies haha. Man to be honost I didn't even know what autocross was, let alone existed till i read the pyramid - is it an american thing or do people do it here?

For the purpose of the survey A. None. I do have a small 52mm one in the bottom bottom right hand side so it's pretty much flush with the dash.

interested.. but i don't trust my car yet. it'll prolly blow up... i guess wet session won't be too demanding.... hmm. humm.. hmm.. geh. will think bout it

What's the link to the bee bee que?

shutup James we all hate you now. .... on an un-related matter i wanna send you a present.. what's your address? ....... do you have any dogs ? alarms? anything else that the postman should know about? *shifty* ... what? O_o

scrolling down lookin at the blurred pic i looked at the front wheel dish and thought YEP 180 back and sure enough it was... looks tuff... *drool* when do we get to check it out? you're drivin it to sydney with those trader plates to gimme a spin right?

ROFL sky80 ROFL CEF11E hah.. funny. $300. (contents of my poor wallet)

LOL i just had a picture of g-father lookin around the room frantically and bidding the first 2 things he saw and the entire contents of cash in his wallet.. lol

AHh yes... RWD please Duncan it's erhm.. slowly getting worse. N > 1st = rev to 2000rpm if you want it to go nice 1st > 2nd = double clutch or shove in (if shove then then wait 1 second in N before shove and don't be over 3500rpm MAX) 2nd > 3rd = same as above 3rd > 4th = hummmm acceptable but better at 2200rpm or so 4th > 5th = shove, push, straing then shove again all shifts down need to rev match otherwise it just won't go in (well, unless you shove it). I must admit however since I put in the redline heavy (*grin*) and drained out the oil that was in there before (which was like water) and actually screwed the clutch slave into the gearbox (as opposed to just hanging off the side) it's stop grinding through each gear I figure getting a box is preventative medicine in this case - not falling out at the track... i might have to get some recon with stronger parts quotes too.. might be the safest option :

lol @ this post. sad thing is - I used to get those!! NOW NOT EVEN THAT!!!! lol

Cool - looks like i'm after a sr20de or det gearbox then !! *hummmmm cooommmee tooo meee geaaaarboooxxxx hummmmm*

NO NO NO NO NO.. these are cheap n nasty business machines for organisations who can turn em over and their performance is GHASTLY. I won't comment on apple - i dislike them but hey if you like it its called a PERSONAL computer for a reason (ie its a personal choice so whatever you like is always better!!). I'm looking at buying this or similar. http://h50025.www5.hp.com/hpcom/au_en/11_2...38_PK359PA.html Becareful though it's possible not all 7010's have 1mb cache. http://www.laptopshop.com.au/ quote a similar one to this at $2.6k which bang for buck is hard to pass up (especially if you can make it a business expense). Search for this title - "PE748PA HP Compaq nx7010 Centrino 1.7 1 Mb 512Mb 80Gb CDRW/DVD 15.4'' WSXGA+ 1680x1050 Win XP Pro 3 Kg Free 2 Year" I think it's not a bad deal. 400mhz FSB, 1mb cache, 333mhz DDR, 64mb 9200 radeon with it's own RAM and WSXGA capable screen that can do well over 1024x768 in resolution. It also has 1 stick of 512mb ram not 2x256 meaning a memory upgrade becomes significantly cheaper. What more do you want? Only downside I can see is no onboard bluetooth, no onboard wireless and it's probably just a little bit too close to 3kg than some of it's competitors (but only by about 50-100grams). That's the model I'm currently looking at. Oh as a side note for those who are hung up on Mac OS it is possible to run it natively on an intel or compatible processor - bet they didn't tell ya that one at the shop did they?

BF Goodrich on the 12 slotters smoke it up good! 265/90/13

Newb question - what's a dog box?

Just out of interest - in an emergency like you are out of petrol but can get nothing but regular.... would it be a good idea to say carry a bottle of octane booster with you? I mean.. if you just fillup say 1/4 tank to get you to another servo with 98RON could you say fillup 1/4 tank 1/4 bottle of booster, not boost hard and get to the proper servo? Personally i don't like any of those additives - I'm scared of them so .... any opinions?