someonestolecc

$800 aint bad if it was a fair bit... do you know how much work was done on that/how much was re-done/time spent? was that mates rates?

1/3 part metho and 2/3 water. Experiment with that and see if you can set the fumes alight - if you can dilute with more water and use that mixture.

Yeah called wreckers, I might have to sit down with the phonebook the few I've called are all not seperating them or say that if the calipers aren't working they won't take those things off they just bin the lot. Thanks Targa Tom but why do you take them off? If there's no point having them then there's no point being concerned on my part I guess... what's the go?

Thanks. Been speaking to a mate who's a sparky. He said prolly like 2-3k to re-wire and thats without going overboard, just doing it neatly. Back to the drawing board. I did manage to unplug the starter motor solenoid and plug the fuse back in long enough to get my windows and sunroof closed in time for the storm. It's just a bit weird now the fuse doesn't blow... I'm wondering if the ignition barrel is shorting but we'll have to see.

i didn't take it to be referring to NA liners - i thought he meant as buying a turbo and being a poser and not having air whushing past. o-well.

anyone?

Serious as a pipe in the head. Whoever wired the car previously didn't have a ****ing clue so I got a few hot wires. So hot they burnt up, had a nice engine bay fire and a heart attack with 2 non working fire extinguishers and a ****load of smoke. Before anyone asks where the fuse was in all of this, well it popped the first one which was rated at 20mA (which is what I put in because it fit properly and it had a 30 in there before). When it popped I assumed it was cos I down-rated it and put in the 30 which was fine for about 30 seconds, it then fried but fried so hard that it melted into itself, shorting it harder. Meggala needs to introduce me to the sparky who did the wiring I'd be happy to show them what can be achieved with some good wire. As far as I can tell the radiator fan wire was soldered into an unidentified loom pin. The pin was probably just used as it had current when the ignition was on but the person who hooked it up probably didn't know where it went back to or what it did. That wire is now cactus. I ripped that wire out (no radiator fan on) just to do up my sunroof and windows but as I was putting the fuse in everytime I completed the circuit the starter motor goes crazy as if it's trying to start so I'm thinking the short is further up into the loom. I can only assume that the radiator fan was plugged into the same circuit/fuse as the starter motor - they must be related somehow. On the other hand it could be possible that the starter motor shorted first, fuse blew, then after the fuse melted and shorted it even harder the wire melted onto the loom the radiator fan was plugged into and shorted that out too. I don't think it would make sense plugging in the radiator fan which should be on with ignition to a starter motor (since that only receives current to start the engine afaik) My assumption continues that the starter motor wire must have a short in it somewhere (and if it didn't then it sure as hell does now) as it tries to start whenever it has current from the battery (ie all the time). Anyone need any paper held down? I got a cool paper weight that used to be a car.

Okay the final verdict is that noone will seperate them from a wreck. Noone sells them seperately and only Nissan sells a caliper "kit" that has all the little pins and metal things in it and apperantly that is $80. Needless to say my calipers are now back on my car minus 4 little metal shims/pads. We'll see how we go

Gday, Just wondering if you were say making a show car or somethign and wanted to re-wire it from scratch (or around that level of hardcore) - how many man hours would you be lookin at? What kinda cost? Wondering cos I've had some wires bust into flames (fun) even having a fuse that I down-rated so I've had some shorts and now I've got some shorts AND stripped wires. *sigh* If it's only a few wires how much would I be lookin at to getting things like that fixed? At the moment I"m quite annoyed as whenever I try to put in a fuse for the starter motor the starter motor thinks it's on and it starts clicking over and over for some reason so it stil must be shorted/melted/whatever. Also a warning to people who bought fire extinguishers from auto cheap or whatever they're called TEST THE DAMN THINGS I had 2 and neither of the ****ers worked!

It matched exactly - I was stoked the hub turned out perfect! No more grinding when goin round corners. Props have to go to Tim @ UAS on this one he ordered it in for me and made sure it all went good after I spent a whole day harassing him about the part (if it was coming in, when it was coming in, would it fit, what i would have to do etc etc) so yeah that was sweet. Pity my car caught on fire on the way back but hey that's another story so it's off the road again after being on it for a short lived 4 hours.

Thanks for the reply guys. I should have probably stated my car is already 5 stud converted. One of the bearings was too tightly screwed and so I decided to get a new hub. The hub that was on there I couldn't remember how it attached so when I looked back at the hub I saw the splines which too_much has since confirmed are actually sensors for the ABS (of the donor car). Now since Nissan have 5 different part numbers for s14 hubs I thought it may have something to do with the splines (which indirectly I guess it might, ie. ABS, non ABS, Turbo, non Turbo models). Now .. since they ain't really splines, but rather spline looking sensors it won't matter. Finally I'm left with the theory that it will fit because where the hub attaches is going to be the same fit. Thanks again for the info - since JK has said the s13 and s14 have a different bore size I'm assuming the bore size on mine is already correct (since the s13 doesn't have a 5 stud). Now I'm hoping it wasn't a 5 stud hub to fit the s13 bearing but rather a replaced whatever else that allows the s14 hub to fit in. I will see in a couple of hours .. *fingers crossed very hard*

Not to a trained (or not so trained) professional (or not so professional) such as myself.

I didn't break it. Driverside hub was done up too tight which killed the driver side bearing so it's un-drivable I'm also having new brake fluid, pads, that sump put in and had the brake rotors machined (i liked the rear rotors having the burnt out chunks of rotor in there too cos of the straight steel pads in use on the back). Also putting in new boots onto the rack and changing some bushes on there. Car should be good for a while after that *fingers crossed* Shit I like your car too_much.. looks tough like rottawila :Pimp:

Yes that sounds around right red - it does stop it. I'm going to bring the last one into UAS tommorow to see if they'll sell me one off some brakes they have spare, then they can order new ones to put in. I'm happy to do that if they are. Schweeet.. Go Tim @ UAS. I'm just hoping the wheel hub for s14 I ordered will have the correct splines to go on my cef... i'm scared.. but hopeful... but scared.. someone hold me.

Looks great driftaR32. Where's the resonator go in all that? don't tell me that has to be on the front pipe ? (I don't want to cut my front pipe to put one on)

that sounds like some good figures too_much. You're gonna have to let me in on some tips to get the most out of mine .... as soon as it's back on the road.

Just wondering if a s14 hub will bolt onto the cefiro? Are the splines on the inside the same? I'm thinking it's pretty much bolt on but yeah .. apperantly I can't get a bearing for my hub so will need a new hub.

Thanks for the reply guys, when i showed the mechanical engineer the ones that were left (and i didnt lose) when I saw my car guy he said they werent ultra-necessary either. He said it just stops the pad from shuddering and stuff... to be that sounds pretty important. I was gonna order some from nissan (i only need 3 so i assume I'd be ordering 4) but that means my car will be off the road for a little longer. How bad on a scale of 1 to 10 would it be not to have them? what coudl the consequences be? I would imagine under braking if the pad is not 100% secure and able to move even slightly i would imagine the way it beds in and scores the disc will be different... that's bad no?

They're at the end of each inner side of the piston but perpendicular from the pads. They sit at each end of the pad. So if the car was going forward in motion and the wheels were straight you could say the pads were length-wise to the car. These would be width-wise. I'm not sure where the pad connects, i thought they sat on a pin.. but yeah these metal pads are definately perpendicular to the pad.

Heylo, I've taken my brakes off (or rather had someone else take them off) and I've misplaced these metal plate things that sit in the caliper. Now I need to buy some more and I don't know what they're called! These are r32 brakes, if you look at the inside of the caliper (where the pads would sit) these are metal plates sort of measuring probably about 3cm by 4 or maybe 4cm by 4cm. They kind of click/sit into the caliper and are perpendicular to the pads. There are 2 of them per caliper. Can anyone please tell me what they're called? Pictures would be greatly appreciated I could point out where they sit! Thanks guys - hopefully I can ask my guy to buy these today but without knowing what they're called it would be hard/impossible. Ta!

DRIFTT, People seem to be sus and bitchy at you for some reason. I for one say thanks for the info. Everyone else should just either choose not to believe this info, take it with a grain of salt, believe it wholly, mental note it (like i did) or whatever.... but damnnnnn why badger him about every little thing.

Just adding in regards to license that isn't mentioned is that (in NSW atleast) when you get your Learner license you have to be atleast 16 years of age. You must have held your L license for atleast 6 months before attempting the Probationary license (P) but you must be atleast 17 years of age. The rest is pretty much true I think recently there is 2 levels of P license but you will have to ask someone that is younger than me because I'm not too sure how it works. After you finish your P you have the choice of a black normal license or a silver. The only difference is black is 1 year and silver is 3 years. Black has 4 points and silver has 12 (works out to be 4 a year). When you commit an offense and they demerit points from you, for the black you are returned your points 1 year from your LAST offence (not the actual offence) and the silver it's 3 years. After 5 (i think) years of no tickets you are offered the 'gold' license which is the same as silver but is gold in colour. In terms of car culture I think you have to be more specific as everyone has a different view on it. I think it's largely determined by the type of person. Some people modify their cars because it's part of their ego/image/fashion. This is like chrome wheels on a silvia or lowering the car till it handles badly. Some people love anything that comes from Japan so they will follow the trend there. Some people will modify their cars as 'anything goes', as long as it's fast. Some people live for the track and will rip out everything for weight reduction to get a better circuit/drag strip time. Some people just love cars so will do what seems fun at the time. I think it's similar the world over in terms of those arch-types, it's just that we may get them in different proportions here in Aus. Each state is probably quite different as well. Common cars for young people is anything. I see from rich kids with P plates having done up latest model supra or r34 GTR, you also see the kids that aren't so rich buy the little $200 car old civic or corolla that looks like it's going to fall apart but gets them to work/uni till they can get something better. In terms of modifed cars I think young people are split into 3 main categories- the "high performance" imports, the holden commodore/ford falcon and corolla/laser/pulsar/civic categories. Street racing depends on what you mean. I've never seen or been to any fast and furious styled place where people get on the walkie talkie and they close a whole street to have the races... (i'd love to so PM me if you do this ). On the other hand, it's common where people are to sit at the lights and race a person in another modified car (atleast I seem to see it a fair bit). In terms of this I think the NSW government has recently changed some of the fines/penalties around this so it's bad to do burnouts, racing etc and I think you can have your car confiscated from you for doing this. In NSW we also have the people who issue licenses (known as the Roads and Traffic Authority) who have inspectors who drive around to see if your car is legal - but living here for 10 years plus I've never seen one pulling anyone over (although I have seen a few). Hope that helps - good luck with your research

cant really read that daveo

*drool* thats crazy nice!

drag cars need autos if you define a race car as including drag cars then some race cars need autos. also when you're working a rotor you need to do alot more than that... not to mention get them re-calibrated every 5000km if you've done any sort of serious porting. heh but that's probably not what you've been told REDFC.