someonestolecc

This still goin on or what?

Al - After the fire a mate (who is an auto elec) fixed the short. He did not wire up the rest of the car (he had to go). After he found where it was shorting he made sure the wiring was re-wired as per pre-fire wiring (which he still said was dodgey his words were "man if i saw this car to buy i'd rip this shit out in front of his face and say fix it this is rough as i wouldnt give a ****") but i guess it does the job for now (full rewiring of car goes on the black list). So yeah the shorting I think you're on the money Dave I don't think is near where the fire was - that was actually quite far away from anything else (near the air filter/front of the car). He checked the fuse box visually said it seemed ok. Since the car starts on ACC i'm thinking as the wires heated up which caused the fire, they must have heated up somewhere back in the loom to the ignition and melted into each other also. I'll have to trace it back I'm just wondering if there is an easier way to do this than rip every loom apart (starting with the one involved in the short/fire) and tracing it back. I've ripped out my whole panels around my ignition barrel in preparation - gonna be a long weekend.

Ahh good stuff.. Yeah cos it's all over the pipes but it is dry. There's no liquid in there at all. It also smells funny "It tastes like grandma." Thanks for the reply - welcome as always Bus.

Yes JK the sound was horrible from the flywheel it seemed (I guess you're saying thats what it was). Yes SteveL you were totally spot on - thanks for your advice! I left work early today and eagerly did this test - turned on the engine, pulled out the solenoid wire from the ignition and sure enough the noise just went away !! Woohooo. I then let the car warm up and I was back on boost!! weeeeeeeee!!! I took my car for a nice little drive my neighbourhood and drove it back onto a ramp. Now I'm happy as pie knowing nothing is majorly dead in my car. I will still have to track down what's causing the starter to stay on however I have a feeling it's the ignition wiring or perhaps the ignition itself. I might have to have my sparky mate check it out and manually short all the ignition wires to see if it's the ignition barrel or the wires leading up to it. I'm thinking perhaps the short somehow ****ed the barrel? Cos ever since I've turned it on it starts the car from ACC (as mentioned above). Weeee!!! I'm so happy right now knowing it ain't my turbo. No doubt something else will blow up/go on fire/fail/leak/grind/shudder/fall off and countless other things that have happened with the car *knock wood* so far but for now I am happy!!

It's all good now I had a mate I went to school with check it out - he's a sparky. Luckily the burning was only a couple of wires due to a dodgey loom. Instead of actually plugging the new engine (it's a transplanted sr20 cefiro) loom into the computer whoever did it just chopped the loom from the computer, then chopped the engine loom and wired them up halfway in the engine near the air filter (worst place). My mates now cut this all up and re-wired it there but said yeah to have it neat you'd wanna re-wire it properly. Which if i get some money I intend to do. (I'd like to do it from scratch). Still $500-800 for a whole car rewired I'd gladly do (if i had it) but my mate says probably retail price is a couple of grand. I know a mate with a r100 wagon getting his wiring from scratch for $1600 and that's supposed to be cheap. So I'd like to know how the hell you guys are getting wiring done for 500-800 not mates rates - like I said I'd be willing to take a day off work, travel in Newcastle for a weekend, stay the night get drunk and then pickup my car next arvo or something to drive back. It's no longer catching fire BHDave but it was a shitty wire shoved into a spare socket off the loom for a fan for the air condenser (which is great because my car don't have air con so that fan was just useless anyway... next project remove air condenser). Yeah loom would be for SR20 but if it all becomes too hard there's always the option of a pfc (last resort due to money). And hopefully my car don't fire up again - I mean.. my mate found the place where it earthed out and fixed it up so it shouldn't happen again - I've replaced the fuse with a different type now as well so if it does short it will blow the fuse which won't melt onto itself. Cheers for the help guys - hopefully this 'adventure' is over. Now the only after-effects I have to figure out is why my ignition has been ****ed over by this - this is on another thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55377

If you don't mind my posting here instead of voting - my opinion isn't covered in the poll. I enjoyed the old way that people could comment and post up offers on the thread so everyone else knew where they stood, also questions one person asked are seen for everyone to see. The new way is great how you can see a photo if one is attached in a large overall view - I think this is great. I also think it's great to see a short and see if the thing has been sold all in one go. I think part of the getting used to process is that the links used to be on the right hand side of the screen now they're on the left - I think to improve it slightly I'd have the actual products (after you choose the category) 'flatted out' a little so that they sit in the middle to the right of the screen. Other than that the major thing really is other people being able to post up about the product - if the seller has nothing to hide they won't mind. That's my only suggestion

I think most people here run rb74 or something. I've got some gtst m type brakes in my car and I just put in some project m d1 spec on the rear and ns (street type) on the front. They pull up ok but we'll see on the track. I think I should have got the nr or hc but they seem to be ok at the moment. I don't think getting performance rotors/pads will help pull you up better all that much over stock items in good condition - they'll just mean the 40th time you go round the corner from 200kmh to 120kmh they won't "fade" and leave you looking at a wall or sand trap. Either way good luck - if you're interested in the project m call andrew from mu's secret. They're import pads and make some good products and for some reason are still well priced against the aussie stuff. Good luck with your brakes - I also think if you search out some braking threads they'll be people in the thread who specify that they use the same rotor as yours and what pad they use.

Sounds ok to me just do it somewhere worst comes to worst you can chuck it and not burn your house/garage down. I think shaking into the bottle first should even the mixture up as well. I don't know, personally you'd have to show me a temp gauge with performance proof of more than 1-3kw that this stuff was really working or I would not use metho (after my electrical fire). It's just a scary feeling watching flames under there. Also I'm not sure the flash point of common household metho. I've googled and it comes up anything from 80-100 degrees which is horrible for the engine bay to have pure metho, on the other hand we might have different mixtures for the domestic stuff. Either way good luck. PS: also i think you should use 100% metho to test if you can light the fumes as a control experiment. Cos now that i think bout it the flashpoint would probably be more of a worry. (a flashpoint is when a substance erupts into flame due to temperature without a nakid flame.)

Checked the wires going into the little motor things? Take em out and shove a test light into the plug and see if it comes on when you turn the wipers on. If it does it has to be the motor.

Mind you don't 4wds need torque? I mean .. I'd take a torquer over a rb20 for a 4wd since probably in most 4wd situations the rb20 would be too little or too much.. then again a terrano isn't exactly a real 4wd in my mind

If I can't get it diagnosed without pulling the solenoid wire off I will tape the sound on the digicam and post it up. I've never heard this kinda sound before. Normally when you try to start a car thats already started it clunks like crazy - this is weirder than that. Oh well hopefully that's all thats fried. Would this effect the turbo not spooling for whatever reason? (I'm hoping this is just a wiring/electrical issue). Thanks mate.

Dear god that's scary - I hope ya don't flip it. Good luck either way

Fuarrrrrk man $800 for a full car rewiring is HELL good. I mean my mates rates are like $1000-1600. Normal shop for full rewire = $3000 and that's not even gonna be show styles. Man maybe I should come to newcastle ay.

Iwells is right on the money in my experience. Apple DO make great laptops but yeah that's if you can put up with Mac OS. I'd be okay with a max os x I guess cos atleast you can then take off mac os x and run freebsd but other than that.. yeah..

What if it's almost a powder? Bugger. One thing after another with this car.

SteveL thanks that sounds like a good theory. It sounds good because after the electrical fire I had the car started in the second ignition switch. (I think it goes lock, acc, on, start ? if thats the order it started from acc, then if you went to on it'd just cut out for a sec (loss of current) then keep going, when you moved to start no difference the car would stay on except my water temp gauge would zoom down (reverse polarity to a positive signal)). Also after I got my car home when it was still shorting (before cleaning up the wires) everytime I put the fuse back in (the starter motor fuse/accessories fuse) the starter motor would turn on like crazy. But is it still possible it's the starter motor because this grinding DOES NOT sound as loud (or the same type) of grind as when you try to turn a car on that's already on?? I was thinking of starting the car and then getting underneath it and unplugging the wire from the ignition to the solenoid to see if the noise would go away if it does then found our culprit - I'll try this and let you know how I go. I'm really hoping if I do that it DOES stop the noise and the fact my turbo isn't spooling comes back!! Thanks Red no prob - didn't really think that it'd go in this section. Noted for further troubles

Centrino isn't a must imo. Infact I prefer an off-board 802.11 wireless card (but years of drug abuse have made me paranoid so I like being able to physically rip something out) plus you gotta remember those frequencies could give you cancer On the other hand if you routinely use wireless and you don't want a thing stuck out the side then yeah centrino would be great but it's nothing an off-board $60-70 wireless card can't do. As for me never having a problem with Compaq's I should say a couple of hours after posting my last message in this thread my display conked and I lost every second vertical line.. THAT SUCKS!!! heh but yeah first time that's happened to me and is a damn coincidence but still not happy! Dells = cheap n nasty imo. What's your budget NA? I'll try to find ya something you can work off.

Just out of interest I read this post and my intercooler piping has this thin film of black dust looking stuff. This extends all the way into where the inlet pipe goes into the turbo. Would that be oil? I have a catch can and it currently vents to atmosphere although I've never seen any oil come out of it. I will be plumming it back into the inlet pipe somewhere for engineering (as the crank case can't vent to atmosphere) so I think that's why people do that Busky.

Also could the fact I get no boost and some weird grinding noises be caused by a blown up (from the electrical fire) crank angle sensor? - cos i think that was one of the things closest to where the fire occured (wiring wise).

Correction: my car did blow up. No boost and some weird noise comin from the engine. (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d=1#post1080200)

Gday, I had an electrical fire in my car a few days ago and now that it's re-wired i start her up and it sounds aweful! It's strange because I have a theory it's coming from the engine starter because when it's running already I turn it to start and it DOESN'T do anything (ie. doesn't grind when you try to start a car thats already started). So I'm thinking it's somehow getting shorted and is staying on, the theory against this however is that it doesn't grind loudly like a car being turned on thats already on. Anyway accompanied with this metalic noise (which slightly seems to follow the revs, but not entirely), is a smell I've never smelt before. It's not quite burnt oil it's not plastic it's not metal it's something else but it definately smells like grinding or friction of some sort. This comes from where the engine starter is on the passenger side of the engine (sr20det). To top it off, I get NO boost - atleast I can't hear the turbo spool nor does the boost gauge go past positive (it's responds in the negative pressure but won't go over zero). *sigh* Could anyone have any theories? Is it possible there was a wire fried out that controlled the turbo, or does the turbo spool according to the engine (ie. not electrically controlled by the computer for example)? What could the noise be? And lastly, since this is probably beyond the usual "what could this be check this check that" does anyone here work for a speed shop and do side jobs or anything like that? I'm really hoping it's salvagable cos otherwise I just bought a rather large write-off.

I think all the reasons are in the article there. Mostly it's minor traffic offenses - does this justify putting peoples lives at risk? Plus it's a policing practice issue. As it says in the article cops can't not chase people because the image is there that they're not catching crims. Still I find it stupid when on the one hand a while ago there was some footage of a mental case holding a knife about 25m away from a cop after a 6hr standoff or whatever and some gung-ho copper decides to run him over with a squad car saying he was lunging for one of the cops - this type of copper behind the wheel of a piece of shit squad car or even a trained highway copper in a SS i wouldn't trust with a roll of toilet paper let alone a big v8 missile. While on the other hand a while ago some junkie was doing a ram raid with a stolen rex and when the copper got there on the scene the guy got in his car and tried to run him over, the cop shot at him and wounded him and I think he got suspended when the junkie pressed charges for some bullshit reason. It's these kind of scum that need to be stopped. You gotta balance the two methinks.

It's not a myth. They can do that.

[EDIT: This is now my "what is wrong with the car at the moment" thread.] [EDIT: It will also be my "what I'm upgrading/doing with car at the moment"] [scroll to the bottom to see what's doin with the car!!] Sweetas. I might be in for some track days comin up since my car didn't blow up after my fire. It's been re-wired a little now and hopefully won't be bursting into flames in the future. After replacing a ****load of parts I don't think I have too many left to go and I might actually be back on the road for longer than a week! When's the next time you guys are cruising/track-daying?

You need to tell us what you intend to do with it a bit more exactly. With laptops there are always going to be trade offs in teh price range, the trick is "intelligent system design". This basically involves maximising the features that you will use, and minimising the ones you will not (or use less) in order to leverage the price. I would, as a general rule, stay away from any video cards that have shared memory. I would also have a rule nothing under 512mb ram total system memory. I wouldn't use the processor speed as a yardstick. This is not a true indicator of the practical speed and anyone who tells you otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about. For example my pentium mobile 1.7ghz is the same speed or faster than a mate's "centrino" 2.8gig most of the time. This is because the battery saving feature of his computer throttles the processor speed to 800mhz (lowest step) thereby reducing the voltage fed to it and saving the battery. If he ups it to 1.8ghz to be on the same level it chews through the battery quicker than mine - i bought this one because nothing i do on it requires over 1.8ghz of mobile pentium processing power. To make use of his full 2.8ghz he'll need to be plugged into the wall and that's fine but most of the apps still run slower cos his system came with 256mb of ram (and he didn't upgrade). He tells me his harddisk is bigger than mine (80g vs 40g) but his spins at 4800rpm, mine at 5200. A small difference but all that adds up and my pc is for the most part quicker and cost a lot less money. To add to it I use 30g he uses like 2gig (typical). This scenario is typical - as people get a computer on the processing speed. So if you get a big hdd you will get a small screen, if you get a good video card it will have a small hdd, if you have a big processor speed they give you not enough ram. Laptops are trade-offs - the trick is leverage what you do with it, your budget, then make sure all the variables are as most utilised as much as possible. What I mean by this is unlike my mate's laptop, which has a great processor but everything else is a bottleneck, the bottleneck should be as close as possible to the max of all the other parts if you know what I mean. After HP/Compaq integrated I've recommended them for my clients and have not had any bad stories. I also believe for bang-for-buck they represent some of the best buys. I myself use an Evo series Compaq. All computers depreciate. I wouldn't even bother thinking about resale but then again I use my pc till I buy a new one, and then I use the old one to do other stuff for me. Sony Vaio imo are expensive (too much so for the spec). Basically these are my specs (and you could probably have this setup for $1.5-2k). pentium mobile 1.7ghz 512mb ram cdrw dvd combo drive (replaceable) single pc card jbl tiny speakers 10/100 onboard network and some onboard soundcard.(its got a modem too but never used it) 15.1" visible UXGA Oh and this thing looks great, is stable as, is light, thin (for what it has/doesnt) and a sweet keyboard. These should be part of your criteria. Also since you're goin overseas you want an international model < keep this in mind it always help when people where you are know what you're talkin bout. For around 2k http://www.cworld.com.au/info.php?ID=116358 would be a good thing to compare to but remember it doesn't have enough ram you will need to upgrade with another 256mb stick minimum. And that one does share it's ram for it's video card but if you don't play games and only stay in windows applications you won't notice the difference. On the other hand a little bit more expensive http://www.cworld.com.au/info.php?ID=114620 that would be nice as it has a great video card, not shared ram, enough processing but again you'd have to get them to put another stick in for more ram. The trade-off on this computer however is if it's the case I'm thinking of it's a bit chunky. If you had hell money http://www.cworld.com.au/info.php?ID=113096 *drool* Also don't be afraid to haggle. You can always get a mouse thrown in or a laptop bag, or drop the price, or price off the ram upgrade etc. If you need any specific help just PM me and ill look over it tell ya what i think - i don't think i've explained everything here