someonestolecc

Interesting viewpoints guys. I don't think anyone is arguing against having a well sorted suspension package. SK has stayed on topic by saying for <$800 bars are the best bang for buck. I've taken that advice (the wallet just hasn't caught up). I'm uncomfortable with the idea of spending so much money and NOT changing my suspension - so I've actually decided to stretch the budget to get coilovers AND the stabiser bars. Just gotta wait for the tax return and I'll PM SK with the part numbers I think ultimately it just means I can get more forgiving suspension that'll let me be better suited to the street and circuit, as well as having the ability to tune for drifting. Funnily I don't know if there are forgiving coilovers out there... as I'm not going to spend money on a bilstein setup for a fridge. I'm going to refrain from articulating my thoughts on political correctness that stifles academic endeavours - best to stay on topic Thanks again.

That's a very good thought. I might have to look around for stock stuff for cheap and use that... very good idea thank you. I'm not entirely sure there's anyone out there like that. Fair enough you want endorsement but SK's tuning school of thought is from the "circuit" (and probably much more), rather than the J-styles of chuck in hard ass'ed coilovers. All drifters would be going down the latter path (makes sense really as that's where the sponsorship products and market are). SK's suggestion, atleast my interpretation of it, is that there's an inherently better way of achieving the same result. I daresay extrapolating the same theory of using adjustable stabiliser bars would probably apply to SK's speced suspension setup. It would just mean you could drive home in the wet without going sideways, go on a circuit track and set it up for circuit laps, and also tighten everything to drift. Atleast that's my take.

That was never the thought SK - I just needed confirmation. I'm just concerned that with old suspension it'll still boat forward and back. I take it if I get the stabiliser bars, it would still be advisable for me to get new suspension right? (The upgrade path...) Also - if this was NOT driven on the road, would I be able to get away with NON adjustable sway bars (hence cheaper). Because for a r31 this is always an option Thanks again

SK - That's a BIG call and will take me a great deal of faith to spend my suspension budget on what are essentially 2 rods I just need confirmation - even if I can get the HDS coilovers for $750, then use the extra $50 to get another sway bar to do the dodgy style and attach it to the other stock one... Will this setup be worse then your suggested whiteline bars? Alternatively, would it be better to save to $1200 or whatever and get myself a decent set of suspension, without the rods? The advantage I see here is that my car's centre of gravity will also be lower. Oorrr are you saying I will need the rods ANY WHICH way I go, and so I may as well get them first for the most marked improvement? I mean, won't the car still boat? The pitching on brakes right now is RIDICULOUS. Sorry to ask what seems to be the same question - I'm sure you get enough people on here asking your advice, not believing it and then doing their own thing anyway, but I'd like to be really sure before I take the plunge and get the rods, instead of the coilovers. Amazing... <scared>

If you have the type m r32 then I woudl hardly see a point, unless you ran out of rotors and happen to have r33 ones lying around. Otherwise they're much the same.

Sydneykid - this is the most interesting piece of advice ever. Stabiliser bars - I'm going to assume that they're the same as sway bars - would this be correct? The car is probably nearing 200k+ if not 100k more, as far as I know it's still on stock suspension. Even with the stock springs and shocks you're saying stabiliser bars are the best thing I can do at that budget? I should have probably mentioned it will be accepting s13 suspension to go in, as the arms and stuff will all be s13. Considering that fact, is a couple of hundred dollars worth of stabiliser bars is going to be better than a set of HDS coilovers? Perhaps between the lines I should be reading that you're saying save more money to get some decent suspension in there? typeM and merlin - not trying to be rude and I appreciate the time spent posting but I don't need a how to of drift or plans for your car in this thread (no offense! )

Was going to put in second hands teins or similar. I understand they might be shagged - I'm willing to gamble. Then I was offered HDS for $750 3 months old. So I thought I'd put that in. Then I read a post by SydneyKid saying the oil wasn't going to cop a lot of abuse drifting. What are my options for $800 for drift suspension? I don't mind about being hard, but I don't want a car that will start drifting itself at 80km/h in a corner - not confidence inspiring in what will still be a road registered car. Should I just save another $800 and pay up? It will be in a r31 running sr20det hubs/brakes with 16x7 wheels on the front and 16x8 on the back. I will put in strut tower brace and it will have a locked diff. I'll hopefully also be turbo'ing the rb30 in it. It's aus delivered (4 door with stock glass) but stripped body. Anyone have any ideas? Please only post if you have direct experience working with a race/rally team or regulary put your car on the track. Reason is I can deal with the street implications, it's just that I don't want 3rd hand accounts, hearsay or the usual "it's firm but ok except for bumps." << not helpful :\

I need coilovers for the track. I've heard of them bending on people after hitting a ripple strip. I had teins before and hit a few ripple strips and they weren't remotely close to bending. I don't think warranty covers the track for those who might want them for that they should look into it :|

NOooo. Xenons are hurt by being turned on and off! So yes funny things will happen - the xenon gas might even turn pink etc while it goes "ouuuch why are you charging me again!?!?". The buzzing is the ballasts charging them up to warm em up. So .. the short of it is that it's a normal feature of HIDs and you shouldn't do it

You guys need to use lawn edging like I did on the r31 ... ok the r31 has seeped through the seat, into my blood and made me a bogan. Seriously though I know a lot of the r31 guys are actually cutting up a part of the r31 stock front bar to stick on the bottom of their front bar. While I don't suggest this with the a31 front bars being rare - you might be able to find a stockie relatively cheap. Otherwise I'm happy to measure the r31 front bar if anyone wants because you might be able to get a stock r31 front bar, chop that and stick it onto the bottom of the a31 front bar... Dodgy... I think not http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=55337.15 - notice the lip looks like the middle bit upside down

Between dictionary.com and acronymfinder.com there's nothing you can't find Not having a go at you just thought I'd let everyone know if there's ever an abbreviation you need to look up

Good bit of kit on it, other than the anchor under the bonnet I think 17k is dreaming. I'd start at 16k and be prepared to take offers. I ended up taking the value of 14-15k for mine (took a few things off, cancelled rego etc) so that gives you an idea. Really the import market being flooded is a buyers market - I waited 6months+ to sell my car. In that time I had bugger all people call me. Plenty of people leave posts but if you're not serious enough to PM or call they don't count. I had 2 parties look at the car in the end. The first was some idiot who told me he'd take the car for over a month, making up excuses and other bullshit, I didn't realise people would be such time wasters (it defies logic) so I believed him. f**king clown. The second person that came out compared the car he was going to get for $15k with his mates mint $22k onevias etc - so he ended up not buying it. Then it finally sold to a couple in QLD who'd just seen pictures of it - and I wish them all the best because it was sold to them within 10 days, so good on them for being decent. Point is 6mths+ to get 1 really interested party??? That sucks and I hope you have better luck. My advice is don't be afraid to think 'what would I accept in 6months' and advertise it at that price - you might lose a bit but save 6mnths. Ultimately I don't think my car was too expensive, I just decided enough was enough so accepted an offer that meant I stopped paying interest - so for me it was worth the saving in 6months worth of debt interest and the fact I had nowhere to live .... hmm there's my introductory story to the politics of post modern contemporary cefiro selling (i.e. sorry for the long post). Good luck.

Sure you put the hoses etc back on properly? Could be a leak in there. Double check everything you touched first. Then check the AFM is plugged in (although the ECU diag will tell you that).

Yes I would. But not hard and stay on the redline. I'd also expect them to test initially to the set BOOST max, then when all the settings were in THEN to the redline to make sure the same settings stay all the way. On the other hand if you have a complex EBC that has tapers and different curves based on RPM you'd probably want it redlined a few times to make sure it was doing it's best. Fuel pump and misfire issue probably in the first category. I go with the theory that if you don't trust the bastard then you don't. For example the few people that have taken my car to the redline I trust with my car because that's what they do. Nathan at Grey Imports = no problem, Yavuz at UniGroup = no problem.. Randoms from forums like too_much_boost, DumHed, BHDave = no problem. And through service to the SAU community SydneyKid gets an automatic redline pass and he can even blow my 31 up

Debt free owns.. Actually I'm still in debt for a year or so but atleast now I can get my own place.. been shacked up at the gfs and nearly been stabbed a few times - not correlated really I will have a cefiro one day again however, assuming I don't change my mind between now and the time I'll be able to afford one again As for the r31, s13 coilovers, VLT setup+FMIC. Hopefully drift pig. I was considering a 25/30 stock setup but with rb25 heads + ancillaries likely to cost over $1k it's hard to justify that on what is essentially a rolling fridge. The thing is an ugly piece of shit with smelly interior (which will be removed) and piece of shit lethargic SOHC anchor as an engine.... Still - it is RWD, a Nissaaan and can be drifted... and funnily has a RB sound and feel to it (altho a lot more asthmatic than the DETs). Spose that's not -too- bad. Morgs also threw in his trolley jack to sweeten the deal

Agreed. I'd expect atleast some warm up and warm down before thrash. I had the cefiro come back with mud splashes all over the engine bay and thermos when going in for some exhaust work.. W T F ?? Never went back there.

$200 for 5% is an awesome price. I had my fridge done in 15% and I think it's the bare minimum, although at night it pays to be extra careful. I think if I had a cef again I'd do the front in 15% and rears and all in 5%. 30% is for stock standard camrys

ahah Thanks guys! looks much better now (altho I'd prefer it all black but now we're just getting royal). Sorry it took so long Shan. If you guys need any help with the backend stuff lemme know - tinkering is funn.... sometimes

Just a thread to gauge people's opinions. Please don't take this as bad criticism Shan/Prank but the scrolling website icon HURTS ME. I use firefox so maybe it's just me - you'd have to be insane not to use tabbed browsing on forums.... in which case you'll end up with 25+ scrolling SAU icons. Is there a chance we could get rid of it? Unless of course everyeone else likes it, in which case I'll put up with it or find a way to disable it.

lol funkey. where the hell do you find this stuff..

You have a booth? I was going to hit it with some matte black but I'm not sure how long the paint will last (at $3.50 a can). If you can paint it for me it might warrant a drive to Melbourne and some sanding.... How much would paint cost? and yes I did wanna stay in this section so I can find rims in 4 stud with GOOD offset and cheap (i.e. it'll hurt the guards) then I'm there well.. me and everyone else. Or maybe 4-5stud bolt on spacers.

I'm going to be setting up a r31 drifter in the coming months. Won't be anything too hardcore but should do me to learn and not have fear of denting the thing... I hate it already.. f**king fridge piece of shit I miss my cefiro :\

Basically I had to pay off a whole bunch of debts. I kept some money to buy another car and the r31 is it I've already done some cutting of the front bar for the fmic and put on some tints (Thanks Greg from Unique/group buy thread) Just bought some s13 lower control arms and brakes today in preparation for the s13 coilovers. (Thanks to Kirk/Initial Imports, who can get you rb74 pads for $136 an end) Hopefully I can find some decent/affordable second hand ones. I've also ordered a intercooler kit for it today from gktech $349+45 delivery and they have kits for a31s!! Need the diff fixed.. anyone know how to weld? I smell bacon

Pretty hard to get because they're in demand to make hybrid motors. Depending on what you want it for I'd be planning to do something else

That stuff OWNS. Seriously owns. OR use the air con. The cef didnt have air con I just used heat to get rid of it. Hot full blown for 10 seconds would get rid of the coldest fog.