someonestolecc

Does that mean if possible you could still send me the high res pic? Email pm'ed.

Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant). And I did notice the dash and dot in white but I did NOT see that referred to anywhere in the documentation - I will trust that it was there if you say so though When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit - maybe that's my problem, I've been going off the book with only occasional looks to the photocopies when something was unclear, I will confirm which ones are proper and make sure they're in the right spots (although I'm pretty sure they are). The cable is a jaycar cable that's pre-made, so.. shouldn't be a prob there, I bought the straight through (not cross over). I'll check for bridges (again) I'll also try to short the button that is the VIEW/RUN button because I get the feeling the buttons supplied to be might be dodgy (some click, others don't). Cheers.

Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again. When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference). The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset. The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that.... Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots. Thanks.

Ok I may have spoke too soon I built the kit and all seems good but when I turned it on I noticed nothing would light up except LED2 - (the LED closest to the middle of the PCB). I looked at the hand controller and it said INPUT 1 and it was in RUN mode. Strange I thought shouldn't it be in VIEW mode? Lets re-read the documentation. So I did that and noticed I had stupidly followed the picture with my jumper settings, so I removed LK 1 and LK 3 as directed. This time I turned it on and only LED2 was on again and the this time INPUT 64 on the h/c but still in RUN mode. What the...? I think ok, maybe I switched around IC1 and IC2, so I switched them around.. Again turned the unit on, this time LED 1 was also on (the middle LED, which I think is the power), but the h/c display was all boxes. I thought that's wrong, so I switched the ICs back and sure enough it went back to LED2 being the only light on and the h/c showing INPUT 64 in RUN mode. Have I somehow inadvertently taught it a new pulsing frequency (by turning it on the first time with the LK1 and LK3 jumpers in) which happened to be blank (ie no frequency), therefore it's registering no frequency as activity and that way always staying in RUN mode? I don't understand why the power light was never on, according to my diagrams this should be the middle LED (ie. LED1 in the diagram). I don't think I've massively stuffed anything up because when I click the L and H switch sure enough the h/c shows it's going into L and H modes. So why can't I get out of RUN mode? From reading the documentation that should only occur if there's an input, yet, I haven't hooked anything up to the I/O terminals. I can confirm my LEDs are in the correct polarity (longer "leg" is the A on the diagram), I played with the trimpot. Interestingly holding reset for 4 seconds (or even 10 seconds) doesn't seem to register - I'm beginning to think all it needs is a reset and I've wired up the reset button incorrectly, but I'm too scared to rip it out and change it around because I'm hoping this has occured to someone else and it was a simple fix. [edit: I de-soldered the reset button, had a look at the tracks and shorted them to try to reset - nothing happened so the button was indeed the right way]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...me=STRK:MEWA:IT That looks pretty good. I'm not sure about Rhino though - if Strathfield sell them I can't see them being good.

For anyone else looking at this thread I just noticed the "BW10000" look dodgey as. Considering - a. google seems to be spammed with the item pointing to ebay b. BW homepage doesn't have this model at all c. the seller's feedbacks looks 'strange' Anyways, I'll keep looking

Thanks guys, that sounds great. Cheers.

Okay - these kits are a peice of cake. I haven't tested mine yet - I have yet to find the solenoid in my car :Bang: - but it seemed to be really easy compared to the shift light kit. So ... if anyone needs any help putting this together I'd be happy to help, unforunately though I can't help putting it into the car itself as I still haven't figured out how to do that Does anyone know what a solenoid in a sr20 looks like?

Do you have any recommendations then yorik? I'd like to have - remote central 3 point immobiliser extra inputs for tilt/boot/bonnet siren output (not just horn) black wiring good code hopping It'd be a bonus if it had auto arming, have silent arm/disarm and be able to lock the doors even when the engine was on (for warming the car up). Cheers.

Jaycar alarms have all that. So who spent $1000 on their alarm?

Thanks type-m and S-Kid. I've got the book so I will build it from that today when I wake up Let's hope the rev light kit was just a one off, but I might take it back tommorow to see if the suspect part I think was wrongly packaged is infact correct or not. If it's not correct I'm gonna be mighty annoyed. And if it is - then I have NFI why it doesnt work heh heh - OT but I don't spose anyone would care to have a quick squizz at it if I post them a pic of the thing and the diagram?

Thanks for the message champ - I'm actually not a bad solderer or builder. It's just that I'm used to dick smith kits that have instructions that are written for the novice (i'm no electronics wizz), and more-so the kits I'm used to the instructions actually match the peices given. In the kit for the rev/shift lamp thing the instructions referred routinely to parts that weren't there so, really you're left to just make your own way with it.. I would prefer not to do this with $50/$80 kits... that's all. If the parts are exact to the instructions etc - please let me know as if this is the case I will try to do them!

Gday, Just wondering if anyones put one of these together? If so could you please take a high-res/closeup photo of your board for me? Mine doesn't work and I think it's because they put the wrong components in. Cheers.

Well, I thought I'd give this a go over the weekend and to test out my kit building skills I bought the rev light kit from jaycar. After reading and re-reading that one, I still can't get it to work and have concluded that the people who write these instructions expect me to know how to follow the entire electronic diagram and understand which part affects which, so that when the instructions and the actual parts are different - you have to work out what is what yourself. So, having wasted $30 and now I am looking at the IEBC + Handcontroller kits I realise I may have bitten off more than I can chew :boohoo: Would anyone in Sydney entertain the idea of putting it together for me and helping me install it? I can pay in beer or other reasonable items.

Thanks S-Kid, that answers my question. I meant my ECU is ALREADY re-chipped and tuned for more boost, so I'll just whack on the iebc and put her on the dyno. Cheers

The short (and technically correct) answer to that is no. ........ however, if you are able to use it to shift quicker than there is a case that could be argued that the resulting quicker gear shifts meant you could go faster. Also if you're pulling enough power to make the stock clutch slip when you're taking off then there's also a case to be made that this clutch would help you get off the line quicker. The first one is a flimsy case though, I think the different between organic/brass/double plate with a good driver behind it isn't much if any what-so-ever. On the other hand I know I can clutch quicker in my flatmate's r32 with his organic than I can with my unknown clutch in my cefiro. The second case I don't think will pose you too much problems as I think a generic type "heavy duty" will be able to take 200rwkw easily off the line so long as you're not dumping it really really hard, and if you do dump it that hard you're going to wheelspin anyway so.. ... Why don't you just keep it till you get your car, drive it around for a while and see how you go? You can always sell it later it's not like the clutch is wearing down if it's sittin in your garage.

I have never ... EVER... EVER seen a good interior spray job... EVER... till this pic. Is that your car kryz? If so did you do it yourself? If so .. what colour did you use/what brand/product? Id like to know the specifics to check it out. If it looks good I might find a crappy dash from the wreckers and practice on that, see how it goes then do mine. Cos yeah that looks nice. Cheers.

I'd recommend having your car started for you every week atleast. If you can find someone trust-worthy then you might want them to roll it up and down the street so the tyres don't deteriorate (if that happens?). My car is awaiting engineering and un-reg'd but I still run the engine and roll it around the driveway.

If you ain't a spastic and respect the clutch you won't lurch forward into the car a metre ahead of you in peak hour. But the thing - you'll need to drive it with just another thing to keep in mind. Good luck.

doo iit kursed

Gday, I know alarms have been covered in threads here but none seem to be installing alarms themselves. My question is this- I need an alarm that I can install myself (so sold to public) that is black wiring and remote keyless ... As well as having all the code hopping stuff and ability to be silent (I hate when the car beeps as you open/close it). It should also have 3 immobiliser points minimum and it would be nice to have additional inputs/outputs (so it can accomodate boot, doors, bonnet, tilt and microwave/proximity. The jaycar ones look good but unforunately (and stupidly in my opinion) the one with all black wiring doesn't have remote keyless entry (shadow), and the one with keyless entry (and all the features I want) doesn't have black wiring (car steel, steel mate or something..) Go figure. Anyways - any help is appreciated - if installers can sell me a kit that'd be good too - but I spose people don't sell these things so the wiring diagrams don't get out.... although with black wiring I don't see how it matters. Thanks.

I wouldn't send them your signature if you suspect something is suspect Good luck tho - I'd say get the proof of delivery and see where it goes from there - if the courier just let anyone sign it then I'd say it's their fault.

I think most people agree 3" is plenty, some worked rb26's use 4".

Dash surround bits!! bags it - will call now to explain since it's a little hard to explain in text. Sold - the air con vents in the middle of the car and the little air con vent that points at the passenger side mirror. FYI to everyone else he doesn't have the passenger vent surround that everyone seems to be missing, nor the right hand side little air con vent that everyone sticks a gauge into.

Hm that'd be interesting - is it an open arrangement from Vic or is it a mate who happens to be in SAU Vic? I'm in the market for a new set of fronts. (the nankangs POS are getting moved to the back to get worn out by the diff and drift).