someonestolecc

Get it dyno'ed and then boost it up or T3 turbo for mild upgrade? Performance all usual stuff fuel pump, injectors.... you seem to have everything else so then maybe a 2530 ?

too_much what would you recommend for my car? if I decide on the BB any chance I can drive your BB equipped car to make sure it ain't hell rough? A lot of people say BB is np others say it's pointless. I'd rather get a tougher clutch to put up with some abuse but on the other hand my knees are fragile enough.

You guys need to do yourself a favour and convince the lease company to let you get a XT/XW/XY GT (or replica). pre 1975 fords are the only way to go

Great - I'll checkout the events and see if my car will be registered by then. I'm hoping to register it with someone elses tyres, then take my tyres and take them round the track a few times just to get every little last bit of use - hopefully (and i mean hopefully) see you there Otherwise let us know how they go

Bob - Just wondering how you went with these tyres? You can call me cc

Oosh is a legend. It's official I missed the link underneath the db25 connector on the H/C !!! Wow - I didn't even notice it - thanks Oosh you're a champ. As for me getting it working earlier than you - I doubt that very very much, since now I'm looking for a solenoid.. and I don't even know if I have one let alone what it looks like!

Need controller to tune it but once it's tuned you won't need the controller. For $50 and 10-20 mins putting it together it's pretty good [edit: oops didn't see S-Kid's post.. that'll teach me to reply in old/non refreshed windows]

lol

Holy crap Oosh I think that's it. I really hope it is - in which case, next time im in SA beer is on me. Thanks for the email too - I will let you know when I get home.

That's exactly what I was thinking but I've never used a BB clutch. I might search up what people are using for around 200rwkw + track abuse. My mates 'organic' the local place put in for his r32 feels nice, the friction point/pickup feels like it's about 4-5mm without being too hardcore. But what the hell is an organic?

Thanks mate - I'm planning a celebratory cruise next month when my car is scheduled (ie when get my company bonus) to be engineered and rego'ed.. so you'll have to come along If the bonus is big enough I might put in an organic/brass button clutch and get a new or recon gearbox but even without those things I'll be cruising as soon as it's legal (even if I don't have 3rd and 4th gear).

Yeah that sounds about right actually!! non-positive I call that squishy!! it started with 4th, now it's spread to 3rd but 3rd is intermittant squishyness. Last night it wouldn't go sideways in neutral as I usually just wiggle it side ways when I get home as habit to feel if it's in neutral. Also it gets stuck in gear but it's all intermittant - haven't had it jump out of gear yet but 4th can be easily taken out of gear without clutch (at any revs). Mechanic said sounded hydraulic but he'll have to drive it to check - obviously over the phone ain't the same but I'll keep this thread posted incase anyone else got the same issues. Cheers for the response - out of interest what do you think your problem is caused by ? And have you drained your oil and checked the plug to see if anything in there has shredded/let go? I don't wanna drop my oil just yet because I changed it in the last 1000km heh ... my car gets hardly any mileage now :

... :nowigetit UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home... I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range? Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works. Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it? I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ? Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside

Aren't they the same a turbo VL calais?

lol respect to the owner

Thanks chunners. Funny enough I saw the "BW10000" on ebay also http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...ssPageName=WDVW $170 is better than $250. One thing did strike me as odd that the blackwidow webpage (www.blackwidow.com.au) doesn't list how many immobilisers it has. I might end up just paying the guy who did my flatmates r32 the $400 he's askin to do the lot with the whizz bang system he reckons is best. I'll think about it then and update the thread with my thoughts if I have any feedback worth giving Cheers.

haha fatz - now you know why I didn't make your track day I was testing my half working jaycar IEBC today and lost 3rd gear also. Lol locked out of 3rd and 4th. Funny stuff... So I took the clutch out, got angry and tried to shove it into 3rd and heard a clunk, then it went in But now they're both squishy lol Hopefully get engineering, blue and pink slips in april along with a new box.

Update: Ok, I followed Oosh's advice and plugged in my injector 1. First thing is first - my car started to idle strange, as if the AFM wasn't plugged in and the output light flickered, so I ripped the wire out and had a closer look. It seems on the outside of the kit where it says I/O it really means O/I ... I think that's the stupidest thing ever - sorry Jaycar but I don't care how good the kit is if you stuff up the labelling it's pretty damn bad. Anyways, so I plugged it in the other way and, coincidentally I was showing one of my flatmates and said "This light is meant to be on for power and isn't", as I tapped it, it turned on!! I tapped it a few more times and now it stays on - checked my soldering and it's perfect.. so it's not that but I do find it a little strange. As soon as the injector 1 was plugged in, after some tuning from the trimpot it actually responded to my revs and went through some of the input levels (1-14.. I didn't want to free-rev it too hard). So.. half of the damn thing works! I just find it bad how the documentation doesn't state with no input the input led will be on continually. I'm glad Oosh told me - I don't believe this didn't happen to anyone else! Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing. Anyone have any ideas?

3 degree drop in ambient air. Priceless

Good question. I'd also like to know as I need a blue slip without an engineers cert for my engine transplanted and otherwise worked cefiro

Get a full 3" system. BUT if you can't afford the manifold + dump pipe just yet then I think a high flow cat + cat back would be better than a stock one. I wouldn't really bother with a cat back if the cat was stock however. My assumption is based on my belief that while a stock manifold and dump can flow more, the bottleneck for a stock car is the actual cat and mufflers backwards of the cat. Cheers

OMG you'd think that'd be obvious yet there are alotta idiots out there, then there are people who actually take pride in their work. Good on ya mate glad you got it fixed.

Man that sucks. I thought mine was bad, atleast the engine has come out (yet? fingers crossed) ... I hope all goes well!

That's what they all say but you'll be right

Great looking car - same rear bar as mine Does it go blue-ish in real life like in the picture of the front? Looks great.