someonestolecc

I wouldn't leave your alarm off and take your key. That's the reason you have an alarm so if someone hot wires it the alarm is immobilising. I'd take it with me - but with my daily I just leave my key on the beach on my towel.. Noone's going to take a barina But yeah after hearing all this if I ever take the ceff to the beach I'll be taking the key with me and immobilising it stealth like

Yes it was Morrie from horsepowerinabox. I'm hoping the HD is around $550 I'm looking at 200-230rwkw. Cubes said that'd be sweet as so I'm taking his word for it.

Got quoted from them for $625 delivered for KNI24003DCBXHD. This is the 1 tonne clutch kit (extra hd).. As Cubes suggested I'm trying to get a quote for the KNI24003DCBHD which is the HD not XHD (the 800kg one) which, is cheaper. Anyone with a skyline please don't use these part numbers as they are for a SR20DET! I'm wondering why the quote you got is more than $100 more? Surely the SR and RB clutch kits can't be that different?

me.. tuner? heh don't have one I'll take your word for it. I'm basically looking for a clutch 3-4 steps up from a organic HD and 1-2 steps down from a brass button (ie can be hard to use but prefer it to be a little lighter and would prefer a bit of ride). So - all is good, if it takes my power level that's what I'm mainly concerned with. I just hope it doesn't kill my gearbox + flywheel Cheers for your help.

Thanks Cubes, I'll get that one. How many puk is this ? (what's a puk!?) It's 9 right? the number of contact area things? Sorry for the questions but I've heard alot of terms and none of them really seem to 'match up'/be comparable.

A road worthy certificate is Victorias equivelent to NSWs pink slip I believe, if not then it's the equivelent to the blue slip. In NSW a pink slip is a safety check of the vehicle, done every year for every car over 3 years of age. It costs about $30 and is done at an AVIS (authorised vehicle inspection service) - most service station garages have this ability. Things inspected are tyres, blinkers, headlights etc and a brake test is performed (with a machine and the guy locking it up or whatever). A blue slip is done when - a. you have run out of rego and not renewed within 3 months b. you have never had the car rego'ed in NSW It's pretty much a pink slip but "tougher". If you're doing it because of reason b. you will also need a weigh bridge ticket (to see how heavy your car is) to bring to the place doing your blue slip. It has to be performed at an AUVIS (authorised unregistered vehicle inspection service) and costs around $45. I can't tell you the process for obtaining a RWC - maybe someone from Vic can explain but I assume it's pretty much the same. I also can't tell you EXACTLY what is checked for a pink or blue slip but some of the cars I think if a car failed pink slip it's safe to say it's probably a death trap anyway or whatever it is should be working anyway. (i.e. oil leaks, no reverse gear, no indicators .. that sorta stuff).

Thanks - I will get that then. Ceramic cushioned clutch plate... That's this one right? The same as the 2nd one on the list http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/knowledge_ratings.htm - if that's the one you're recommending then I'll get that one. Clutches have been confusing me for the last 2 weeks of been looking for one Thanks again for your help.

I have sr20 with small trust turbo and it doesn't make any pressure on the boost gauge free revving. If I had a BOV however it would be enough to vent it if the spring wasn't tight. I don't know what causes this but you don't want boost when free-revving or you'd kill your engine

Just how much difference on the street is there between the 1000kg XHD and 800kg HD ones? Will it make much difference on the foot? Will it make much difference if I am looking to use it with about 230rwkw? Cheers

How many puk is this clutch? The price is nice, but for the same price I have found a exedy clutch plate with pbr pressure plate (or $650 for a full exedy organic 5 puk kit). Don't mean to hi-jack but are clutches pretty much all the same? For those who have this clutch - I'd like a step up from a heavy duty organic but a step down from a full on brass button, will the xtreme one listed on that page be ok?

I think even for engineers it's really hard to find or so mine was telling me.

You'll be able to use stock s13 stuff for number 2 & 3. As for exhaust unless you're running a straight through if you take off your final muffler and substitute with any stock final muffler you should be ok (unless it's really loud).

"Why didn't you just POP A CAP IN HIS ASS thommy?" heh. Yeah - waiting for airbags/struts/hydraulics kursed...

Just outta interest would it be hard to make a mould of your own bonnet if you've never used fibre before?

Silly question but $500 for a battery??? Isn't that overkill? I use 2 amps to drive what I call a pretty low-level system.. I hope my kmart style battery goes ok

True, I've never claimed it was great.. but the HU alone is more than $200? I can't afford sound to be honost though.

S-Kid is talking about positive caSTer and negative caMBer Typically I think you'll find 3degree of neg camber wears your tyres alot on the street, I took mine from about 4" to 1.5" and wish I'd put it at 2.5 so each to their own.

My gf doesn't even have a license... girls that drift????? gimme :aroused:

uhm. lol you're all amateurs 4 headlights 2 grill 2 front bar 4 power steering pump 1 wastegate actuator pipe 4 cable ties for the rear bar 3 boost tube related purposes 3 holding air shield 5 CAI pipe 7 ECU 10+ holding various rb20 dodgy left over wiring in the engine bay etc that's off the top of my head, but every day brings a new adventure

lmao - least he has something to wash the taste out with.

So long as the rolling diameter is the same. By this I mean if your previous tyre wheel combo had a diameter of x and your new tyre and wheel combo has the same diameter you're fine. Search through some other threads or google as people have posted some links to a tyre calculator that will tell you the rolling diameter from inputting your wheel and tyre sizes.

Stickers that are on the car and non reflective and don't obscure vision would be ok. I think they're kinda disclaiming themselves agains't idiots who put fat ass'ed ye olde english "HONDA" and "HOLDEN" stickers on their cars that cover half the windshield.

Tweeters from the head deck and 6x9's from the cheap amp.. lol He *could* do that.. but who wants a $200 p-plater sound system? Man I've heard this advice given out so many times and you end up with dumbass'es who don't know what sound well.. no front stage, no mid range and the whole thing underpowered. If you're on a budget you're much better with (in order of budget allows) a decent H/U, front splits or coaxs from an amp and a sub from an amp. Even no sub and decent fronts will kick the crap out of 6x9's in the back imo. Right now I'm on a budget so I've got a pioneer 7650 (or thereabouts), a pioneer gmx414 amp 4 channel amp (discontinued and old but sounds nice) driving some focal polykevlar 2way 6.5" splits and the rear stock 6x9's turned way down for rear fill. Noname $50 amp and $50 sub in a box (for now). If I have a large cashfall and my car is finally fine mechanically I'll be going for a 1.400 and a idmax 10" sub. Fhrx knows what he's talkin bout, 10mins on the phone with him will tell you that much, or you could checkout his page on www.fhrxstudios.com . Realistically though before you go buying new stuff try to fix the stuff you have already, and if you have the money talk to Fhrx he does some nice specials.

You'll probably find personal loans are the only thing thats available through major banks/institutions.