someonestolecc

mmm best skyline combo imo. r32 + rb25. good onya mate.

SICK LEBOS BRO **** THE cops WOO yeah all I can say is those guys are idiots.. they set themselves up for the media (who cares cos its fully sick right?) and now because I have a modified car to all public idiots who think ACA is the next best thing since sliced bread and the police I now am automatically a hoon. anyone else feeling they should trade their muffler for a stockie? bah PS: rofl @ falcon doing a burnout into the other falcon

Typically metro Sydney is divided in main areas like so- City area - high price, apartments mostly and inner city isn't really a kiddie friendly area. Great buses, trains. North Shore - this area is basically the most socio-economically well off area, typically made up of middle class and upper middle class suburbanites. Known as the North Shore as it's north of the harbour, 15-30mins from the city. Great trains, good buses. Northern Beaches - north of the north shore extending up the beaches area, mostly surf like feel and easy going feel. Can also be expensive here and there's some really nice houses, bit a pub culture and yahoos if you go way too north. 30-40 mins from the city. Great buses, no trains. Southern Beaches - south of the city, the suburbs mentioned above in a post belong tehre. It's more a trendy feel instead of suburban feel. I don't personally think it's as easy going as other neighbourhoods but there are nice beach side cafes, shops and stuff like that. Great buses, no trains. Western Suburbs - I don't know about these as I've never lived out west as I dislike living inland (really.. really hate it). Typically it's socially economically not as well off as other areas. (No offense anyone who lived there). Good buses. Trains exist. Any more questions just ask or PM.

An organic shouldnt' really shudder, just shift it slower and give more revs

So how does having a diff that's different from the submitted spec an advantage? I mean, what limitations are there on front diffs ?

Actually yeah CEF11E got a laurel and daaamn I LOVE IT.. infact, if he sells it I told him to contact me cos I want it.. I really really want it as a daily. It's pimp.

So the moral of the story is get the 86 and come cruising with us cef lads with rarer cars If you really wanna be cool get one without a sr20 and stick with the rb20

It's not like idle because it's got load. A bigger load. While I have no scientific basis I'm almost sure that the load caused by too highly gearing an engine and making it struggle is worse than using the car as it was designed to run. PS. love the new part of your sig, looks sweet.

Hmm I always get people who aren't helpful seemingly - like I used to be able to get couriered stuff to me, then they changed the guy who works there and he said it's not possible for example. Anyways sorry to hijack Good luck with the part.

The people working there are tards Iwells. They couldn't find stuff for me on more than one occasion that people from the forums can find in 2 seconds. Unfortunately I don't have FAST installed so I can't help you but yeah don't trust crows nest nissan :

I think I've got spare also both cos I installed my own on my kit. PM if it doesn't work out. [edit: as far as I understand it it has to be orange when it's operational so if you have a clear cover but orange bulb when it's on it will be orange so no problem]

Mine passed no problem I had 2 rips on it too in the same place. I think all brides get them there The engineer laughed when I asked him about it he said pfft sif no such ADR. The blue slip guys didn't even mention it. If you're worried just use some tape.. I think there's fabric tape out there.

RB does not stand for race bread- I think that's been theorised on this forum to death. Also RB20 have LESS torque in the majority of the rev range ffs. Where do these people get these "facts" from? [edit: Cool hand luke is right on the money]

If consult says the correct speed and the speedo says something else (and same with revs), there's gotta be something between the ECU and dash goin wrong. Check the wires, maybe some are corroded? Jaycar sell kits for speedo correction, but this is just resolving the symptom rather than fix the problem but if it's something like an engine transplant that's causing your inaccurate readings it might be the way to go. Good luck.

Just wondering how they drive it in 5th? My car is stuck in 3rd gear at the moment and I had trouble hill starting (smelt burning clutch heh)..

Wait 2 more weeks or so

Sounds like my car, one thing after another. If it was a drift button you can pull them out and it will lock (i.e. pull the lever up and pull the button OUT). That's the way they're meant to work. I guess it doesn't help now that it's snapped :

Watch it buddy or too_much and I will have to crack heds Cef is the pimp over an ae86, but that's why we all bought one, otherwise we'd all buy an 86. If you asked at toymods I'm sure they'd say an 86, cos that's what they bought. Just buy whichever you like better PS. my mate has a ae82 - it's front wheel drive, I didn't think there were rear wheel drive ones.. can anyone send me a pic of the rear wheel ones please?

I've got both engineered fine. Did someone knock you back or have you just heard this? Anyway - tk80, when you get the engineers certificate, they give you 2 copies, one for the RTA, one for you. When you get your rego you have to take your cert to the RTA and they will keep one copy for their records. When they print you your rego sticker it will have a code on it stating your rego conditions - these will relate to those things specified on your engineers cert. Your copy you must keep in your car as RTA/police can ask you for it and it's a condition of rego. If you're anywhere near North Shore/Chatswood area or within a reasonable area of that give me a PM and I'll give you the contact details of my engineer. He was recommended to me and I now recommend him

Apperantly there's some mag wheel chemical cleaner stuff that eats stuff away and is good to use before polishing. I've never used it so I'm not sure but I will be doing my wheels soon

There's something about the low down torque that makes the sr20 more enjoyable (imo). When driving my flatmates r32 I find I have to push it always, mine I can drive under 4000rpm and it still pulls up hills with stuff in the car AND it's my cars heavier. But the rb20 is cheaper and revs out nicer and also has a great exhaust note, it's refined and urgent.. the sr20 is harsher and gnashy. On the other hand as mentioned somewhere with an sr20 in it, it's the engine that it came with from the factory so bolt on stuff would be easier. Heh I really like the sr20 but loving my old 351 v8 I would pick the torque over the revs.

Yeah you can get pod engineered. Apperantly the only ADR this relates to is noise so as long as it's under 90db you're ok. Mine is un-oiled and the engineer stupilated this on the certificate however I'm not sure if that's a requirement. I didn't have to do a drive by test. In terms of exhaust it has to be under 90db mine was read from approx 30cm at 3000rpm. The coilovers - as long as the height is 100mm from the ground you're ok, this applies everything but the tyre and wheel. And off course - the whole lot you get engineered has to be deemed safe engineering wise, so things like coilovers that are 101mm off the ground don't cut it if they're sticky-taped on Also - technically, you DO need an engineers with all that stuff however you're not going to really get picked on (atleast around where I live). If you're planning on getting any other mods in the near future consider getting them and then having the whole lot engineered as it will end up cheaper. As for the actual laws - a good guide is checkout the RTA website and look at all the motoring requirements they put out. A car in NSW is (from my limited knowledge) subject to those guidelines and the national ADRs. I was having a chat to my engineer and he says even for him it's hard to go and look through the whole lot because the laws and guidelines are all over the place. Another myth he busted for me is the shift pattern on the gear knob, apperantly one of his customers he'd engineered got defected for it. When he heard back from the customer he went through ADRs and regulations to look for it, and it's never mentioned anywhere so he said that's rubbish too. PM me if you're North Shore area and you need a good engineer. The guy I used was an absolute champ and he quoted me the best quote, when he came out he ended up charging me less anyway.

The ones I've seen like the takaami or something looked really crap when you get up close. You can tell the material is just cheap as and the whole thing is over priced at $600 or whatever. Save for a second hand bride or something would be my preference.

I did mine myself daveo - if you wanted photos of how I did it in the cef I could email them to you should you want to see them. I think I used dynamat or something and I can't really remember but I got about 4kg of it from fhrx. Can't remember what he charged me for that cos I got a few other things too. I also used a couple of tiles of stinger roadkill which was a bit thinner but worked well where I needed it. Probably takes a pro about 3 hrs? Wouldn't know how much they charge. Good luck.

But with a semi-rebuilt gearbox that daveo described he should be able to put in servo gearbox oil and still be ok. Daveo is it possible something wasn't installed back in correctly ie. bearings in clutch, mis aligned clutch plate etc? I guess this wouldn't make sense that it's ok once warm. Just out of interest how much did you pay?