someonestolecc

Actually no - that was the beginning of the conversation. I've been insured with them before - they loved to insure my '69 351 Falcon for CHEAPPPPPPPP when I was younger.. I didn't even get to tell them my driving record (which is where most companies start to laugh and tell me politely to bugger off).

Phwooarrr!!! And it's a 4 door :aroused: Wow - that's all.. (buy a lottery ticket!)

The insurance question is best asked of your insurance company. You should probably only take financial advice from people who are authorised to do so and with the proper documentation I can however give you general advice, which doesn't relate to your situation and does not take into account your insurance policy or situation. Most insurance companies may say the car needs to be legal, if the part in question isn't legal, then they may refuse to pay... but this is a moot point as it dirties your AFM anyway so why would you want one? Either way make sure it has a shield

Nice lookin ceff - I love that grill if you wanna get rid of it lemme know (can swap for normal). Uhm - as for the front bar I have mine held on by 2 zip ties. I've already hit something (unseen rock) and the whole thing popped off, luckily, instead of ripping off. So - if you plan to drift (or hit huge rocks that aren't visible) then consider that too

The cat is there for a reason. Carbon monoxide is dangerous. Dangerous to you, and anyone following you.. Sure you don't care because you're in the cabin but it's also bad for the planet.. (you know, the one you live on, with the polar ice caps melting and the ozone layer hole and stuff). Also, the difference on a dyno for most cars is sweet **** all. Now if those 2 logical reasons didn't get you - how about the bullshit fine that's probably half the price of your car that the EPA will bend you over with, and YES believe it or not they do run around with mobile testing stations and even the good ol' broom stick to see if you're gutted it. So to answer the thread starter - yes a hi flow is the way to go, however stay away from a 4" for example because that may create turbulance. Just stick with your 3" now and if it's gonna die or you have some extra cash, put a high flow in. I'm assuming you have stock turbo/dumppipe/frontpipe. If you upgrade any of those get a high flow too. Good luck.

I didn't know federals make any good tyres.

There are tuners that are trustable(if you're not related to em)?!? :bs!:

I've heard that HKS pod filters stop only "small birds and rocks". Apexi is "supposed" to be the best. I'm currently using a noname cotton job, when I get the money together I'll get myself the apexi. I've also heard K&N is good (i.e. some of their pods register no change on a chassic dyno when run without filter to running the K&N filter, off course I don't know how well they filter).

I think last time they went under they were bought for 10 pounds by some consortium, then they went down recently and talks with shanghai auto group for a cash injection musta failed. Pity no other car company saw the need in their lineup... Globalisation's a bitch.

That's good to hear. When I called about 2 months ago I got some old guy who was not only rude, but didn't want to hear about it. "it's an import" "looks shannons don't wana touch that sort of stuff we don't want em" "but your website says we know your car and i'm an enthusiast" "nah mate ... so what did you want again" "(eat a dicK)" I might have to try again - thanks for the info

I've seen a few sold for $400-600 but then again some people would pay a lot more.. Guess it depends if you're selling it to a mate or some dumbass. What brand isit? How many points? Is it for sunroof/normal roof?

That sucks the ass. I wonder if someone wouldn't buy the technology atleast to keep the metal composition etc available to the market.

Hmm sorry to be a bringer of bad info then - Nico you sure the r32 ones won't fit with some mods? I could have sworn the one in my cerry looks like r32 one. MYS - if you haven't done it in a few weeks you can have a look at mine when/if my car gets working again and we're on a cruise or something. Cheers

If it's a burnt cd try a different brand. I've found back in the olden days when cd's cost $1 that golds were the most compatible (and then later platinums too). These days it's anyone guess what is most compatible but still, try a few different cds. Formats are international, so unless you're putting in an mp3 cd into a cd-audio deck, or a burnt cd that hasn't been finalised you should be ok.

Thanks SteveL - looks like no rb25 replacement for me if my sr20 box dies

wow looks like i gotta keep away from rb25 cefiros then

Struts effect torsional rigidity so the engine shouldn't matter should it?

I had some dodgey (suprise suprise) ones in my car when I got it (which I've since modified to sit properly and nicely) but they look remarkably like the ones in my flatmates r32. All that was required was a couple of holes drilled and one section sawed out (about 1x2cm). Good luck.

I thought 195rwkw is alot for exhaust + boost?

Is that both front n rear?

Anyone know where the sr20 box fits into this and if a rb25 box mates to a sr20 "bolt in" ?

You want more boost already mate? Good man - when ya comin round?

A locksmith won't be able to make the key from a code off the lock. They will be able to tell what kind of key - but they will need to have access to the lock anyway.

Just had a look at your link. Brave choice of colour - I'm not sure if I like it or not.. Either way glad you weren't discouraged.

It's cos if you're fully sick FALKENS ARE SICK BRO... I wish I got money every time I have to explain people brands can have different tyre models and they look at me like a dumbass and reply "I've heard falkens are good" or whatever other brand their mechanic sells. PS. When my driverside bearing was buggered (as it was tightened too tight by some retard before I got the car) it only ground (grinded?) when I turned the car one way - this may give you a clue.