someonestolecc

Welcome to SAU Tina. Don't worry about the guys in this section - they like older skylines (hence "classic skylines"). Your thread should have been in another section but that's ok - most other sections of this forum are a little more forgiving than these guys. When you post there is a "manage attachments" button you can click. That will let you upload images (they can't be too big though). A moderator may move this post somewhere else so if you can't find it it's probably moved to General Skylines section (or whatever it's called).

I can't make it definately in the next 3 weeks unless someone wants to install a gearbox and clutch for me (I will hopefully get this done in 3 weeks though). Damn people with working cars :

Could have unplugged the afm or something too Look at your ECU and see if it's in limp mode (the LED will be on when the car is running).

Please don't do this. I've had an electrical fire (from other reasons) and it's damn scary. You don't want this as the fuse serves as the weakest link, so basically it blows before the wires melt. You uprate the fuse and your wires may melt/erupt in flames. What you might want to do is wire it straight from the battery as someone suggested, just make sure you have a fuse there, when I get a car I usually run 2 wires straight away, one into the dash which is usually about 8ga (or a bit thinner) and a 4ga to the boot for the amps. I use the one to the dash to power everything I put in there, like EBC, head unit, gauges or whatever. This way you know where the power is coming from, what the wire is rated at, and what fuse you have on it (I also have fuses on each component where practical). What I might suggest you've done is grounded your head unit into the lights, which will mean the stereo will work till you put your lights on (by turning your lights on or stepping on the brake, depending on which circuit we're talkin about). The other possibility is you may have plugged the positive into that circuit, which I think someone mentioned above - however if you used exactly the same power wire as the stock unit this is not it. The running wires yourself is a good idea if you just want to get it working reliably (remember to use a fuse and tape up all the exposed wires in your dash individually first though). If you're really keen in finding out what happened however it might be worth to get a test light, and pull the fuse out that blew. Then get all the wires you were working with and test each one for current one by one (remember to have the car in the same electrical state as when the fuse blew, if that means it was in ignition with the brake pedal on then do that). Note which ones were live and which weren't. Then put the fuse back in and do the same. You should be left with one wire that behaves differently than the first time (ie either being on or off). This should give you a better understanding of what the wire does eg. if it lights up when your car ignition is on or off and when your brake pedal is in, then it's obviously the brake light. If you've grounded it into that then you know why it's blowing. Process of elimination Good luck :wassup:

No worries - if it needs someone to run her I'll run her for you My cef is still stuck in 3rd so wouldn't mind a nice sounding car you can actually turn on and walk away from without having to sit in it and keep the clutch pedal in or... will you be re-upholstering it and putting full sick chromies on her ? :barf:

I don't get it, I always cruise around in 5th so long as the car feels like it has enough "go".. ie down hills or higher speeds. Why is it bad under 1000rpm?

If i had the cash my cefiro would be going m3 blue (can't remember what they call it), with a few more metal chips than usual Then again that'd look awesome on a r32 too :aroused:

Good one man nice one.. PICS PLEASE When my car gets good I'll be up for a mad cruise :aroused:

Thanks for the info Roy I've mental noted that and maybe when I run out of the redline oils I bought a bunch of when I got my cef I might try it. I thought you were selling your car? Good on ya for staying with us a while longer

Gday, Welcome to SAU. I can't help with your boss kit etc as I don't know if it's the right one and I personally don't shop at autobarn Some of those wires however should be your horn. There are 2 of them for that. The rest may perhaps be an airbag, and I'm not sure but I think HICAS cars also have some wiring there? Although someone more knowledgable may correct me on that.

I think the best one is the split + dump pipe in one, where the extra pipe from the wastgate is joined into the exhaust even further down the line.

I think from a few loosely scientific tests by people checking flow by either checking the actual AFM, checking the intake temp, and/or checking the rwkw on a dyno the results usually come up in order from best to worst- - aftermarket replacement filter with CAI/aftermarket pod filter with CAI - aftermarket replacement filter - stock - exposed pod The last two seem to interchange in the articles/anecdotes I have read/heard. Either way I have a pod and it is partitioned, and now it doesn't get hot, whereas before the actual pod was HOT to touch - so yes, you're right a pod in the engine bay can suck up a lot of hot ambient air. Also pods tend to give more induction sound PS Stay away from oiled ones if you're using them. Plain cotton is best. Good luck.

ahh Sydney+mountain lads need another cruise We turned many heads with about 10 cefs heh heh..

When I had my GT I wanted to buy more than anything an ex-club car 240z with a 302 in it. *drool* That's my story

The car is doing the smoke thing cos it's gone into limp mode and putting a bunch of petrol in to run rich to protect the engine (as it assumes a helluva lotta air is goin in to be safe). If you broke the pins, it's basically a simple matter of connecting the connections again. How you go about this is up to you. If you can open the AFM you MIGHT be able to make a new pin ... say.. with a paperclip or something conductive, and if you can, open the actual plug itself and try to replace the pin (always use solder). Now, if I recall the plug is female and the AFM is male, so I assume the pins were in on the AFM. I dono how to take apart an AFM, someone else might be able to tell you.. but so long as you can make the same wires connect through the pin you'll be ok. Worst come to worst just goto wreckers Good luck.

I have a pioneer 7650 - works good, sounds nice. It's not a high high range one but just seemed to me to be a decent and good bang for buck. Never had an alpine, I like pioneer HU in my price range.

Gumption is a name of a product you find it at primary schools and the supermarket in the detergent/cleaning section.

I put shockproof heavy in my gearbox. It lost 3rd about 1000km after (sedate street driving) and 4th about 1100km later. I drove it around for a few days 1st>2nd>5th.. once day 3rd and 4th came back as if nothing had ever happened, I shifted into 3rd and it got stuck. That was 3-4weeks ago and the thing is still stuck in 3rd I can't say it was the shockproof because I'm sure the box was thrashed like a .2c hooker, it could also be my clutch (highly suspect)... but when I get it all fixed I'll be putting the normal redline gearbox oil into it (vmx or something). I'll put the heavy in my mech diff I think that's what most people do.

Stick with the GTS-T cos first car you'll probably crash it. I didn't get a turbo till my 4th car and I'm scared to think where I'd be (or not be) if it was my first car. If you want to spend money on it (which you will anyway) - de wing it, spend $2k on suspension mods and learn to drive it. Then if you want to really get crazy you can spend more.. by that time you will have a better idea of what you want. You might not even like a GTR (it's not what I'd consider an AWD car, it's an ATESSA car). If you *JUST* want something to chop people in (if that's what you're into) get a GTiR. Stock they chop most things, bit of boost they'll chop all normal cars and most imports. Spend alot of money on them and they'll be faster than almost all but some exotics and some similarly hardcore done up imports (10 sec silvias and 10 second gtrs). Either way - to learn on I'd always suggest a NA silvia because it teaches you how to drive performance wise without the big boost. An RB20 would not suit my personal driving style because I'd just thrash it, whereas with my SR20 and big bastard of a cefiro I can happily pull up a hill in 2-3k rpm. So my advice here is to respect the redline and not be driving it everywhere on redline. Good luck.

Wouldn't it become more expensive? P1's in black please

I dono why'd you give up the a31 front end though... maybe for a 180 front.. There was a s14 fronted cef posted up in this section some time ago now and I think most people didn't like it. I reckon it could be ok but if anyone finds photos please post front and back and side if possible.. It's pointless seeing a s15 fronted cef when it just looks like a s15 from the front

I love my weather shields - what will you guys do when it's raining and foggy and you've removed your aircon ?

Ok. Correction. I've mis-understood an email I got sent so the prices are - DCBHD $625. the DCBXHD is $725 delivered. Oops. So sounds like you're about right Timd

That's weird. That happened to me and they said it's free or $12.50 if they find it was charged correctly. Either way - good luck getting your money back man that sucks the ass.

No such luck the HD is quoted at the same price - $625 delivered. Kinda makes me wonder because that's the same price as an exedy ceramic 6 puk kit.