someonestolecc

Spotted a blue autostyle stickered ceffy with white rims and green p plates. ASN or ASU something. I happened to have a Super Fun Happy Sliders sticker with me so I put in his window (not stuck, placed) 2 cars away from a r33 with plates ASV something.. also with green p plates.

Aren't you scared of being decapitated? Try ebay for thermal wrap - there's a lot of crap there but I think the reputable brands too. I wish mate I wish.... : thanks tho.

heh nemz - new clutch kit recent thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1249600

My mechanic said $300.. I thought he was ripping me till other 'reputable' places said $500 and stuff. Remember to ask when getting the quote if they're including machining the flywheel which I think is necessary or atleast preferable when changing clutches. Who's Tim? I got quoted $550-600 for a Exedy heavy heavy-duty 6 puk ceramic clutch kit today - apperantly it's the same clutch in a driftnats silvia that's had it in for over a year ... I think that's the same one krysiu has. Does 6puk brandname vs 9puk generic really make a difference? Or is it all much a muchness? Your rb30 would be pulling some serious torque eh Cubes? Is it the RB equivalent of the one I pasted in one of my posts above?

I'd be interested in that siksII. Does anyone have that in their car? (http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/Priceli...ilviaclutch.htm)

heh yeah thats crap. I thought i'd seen it all when a guy 3 streets away from me had a Jag, he put duel cannons on it and a big GT styled wing. Iditots... before that the cannons and the wing were on his Torana... durrrrrrr.

It should work as long as- You have a turbo, wastegate and you "splice" in a solenoid with a "restricter" between the solenoid and the wastegate and you can find your injector wire from your computer. If you need more explanation PM me or ask here.

krzysiu - did that come with the flywheel? (as a kit)? I'd like to order it at that price and get my mechanic to fit it, I don't think he can get them in so cheap... plus $300 or so to install he reckons.. geh should do it myself heh.

WOOHOOOo Confirmed.. engineering this Saturday!!!!!! Hopefully nothing is non-engineerable.

Good onya mate hopefully my car will be on the road in April sometime with a new clutch and possibly new gearbox. Actually I'm confident I've fixed up all the dodginess and the car is sweet now so it's just a matter of putting finishing touches on it (extractor heat shield, pod box, amp, speaker placement etc). Once the new clutch goes in and it's engineered it'll be NOOOICE... the day I've been waiting for for 6 expensive months. I thought straight away cool I'll have someone to cruise with but now that I see your avatar your car looks great and it will take too much attention from mine with that nice colour Lemme know when you get it I'd love to have a look.

Did you mean this one S-Kid? http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod58.htm

Thanks typeM and S-Kid. Looks like bonnet thing is out for sure. As for the wrapping I think my manifold would crack ($300 stainless jobbie) although this would be the nicest thing to do in my mind. I have read your other posts S-Kid in regards to this - most of those threads seem to be directed at reducing certain parts of the engine. I'm not actually worried about the intake temp through the pipe, because of what you've said. I was going to wrap it because I believe the pipe heatsoaks and warms the AFM and the pod, simply because it's metal. This won't be because of the air inside. Similarly the heat shield would be there to keep heat away from my wiring, ignition module, ebc solenoid (yay) and pod. Lastly the actual pod will now be fully partitioned off and the aim will be so it will also be fully air tight to the engine bay when the bonnet is down. But still be able to have ambient air from the gap in the engine bay, the headlight and mostly the CAI pipe from under my spoiler. If I win the lottery I'll be having an aluminium bonnet made up and when that happens I will be grafting an M3 styled vent at the top of the engine bay on it Cheers for the help.

CEF11E said it sounded like the thrust bearing or shaft or something... does that sound about right? I thought it was stuck when we were working on it cos it wouldn't go into 1st, 2nd, 4th was squishy and I couldn't get up the hill in 3rd It'd be nice if I KNEW what was wrong.

Thanks Dumhed for letting me drive your car today and for that solenoid! I put it in but wasn't able to grab a T piece. Thanks heaps to CEF11E too for helping me out and stopping me from giving up half way haha Funny thing is when I moved the car around into the garage CEF11E mentioned he heard a rattling, turns out it turned into a bad cluttering comign from somewhere around the gearbox. When you put the clutch in it goes away. Time for a gearbox recon haha!

Thanks for the suggestions - This is something I've always thought of doing as I've heard that the lowest air pressure on a car is in the middle of the windscreen - so raising your bonnet is a great idea from that perspective. One thing that someone did mention that put me right off the idea is that when you're in a crash the bonnet won't crumple, instead it will go straight through your windshield and probably hurt you. This is the only reason I haven't done this.

Just bringind this thread back Funkey - wondering if you've done the ceff or if you have any further progress on this

A little OT but I have installed a short shift (copy of C's or some home brand type) - it's a solid brass one and I don't see it snapping or anything and it really does make the box feel a LOT nicer. Unfortunately sometimes the stick itself gets too hot to touch (which makes quick gear changes a must and stops you from resting your hand on the shifter heh heh) Just one question - how do you tell if you're going too fast for the syncro?

Any other suggestions? Is getting a bonnet vent cheap? I'd like a low key one so not a scoop but a vent, ie somesort of meshed cutout at the rear of the bonnet as to draw hot air out over the windscreen? Either that or one of the sunken in vents that sit just after the radiator, but i think those are more to get more air through the radiator right? Cheers

You may have considered this already but try looking at motorbike paint colours as well. Quite a few nice bikes with burgundy/red (ie. ducatti?)

Hey Mr Danger, I had NO idea it was BB - I expected those things to be savage, yours was like driving my mates organic, just a little bit more bite if I recall but yeah I thought nothing of it. Well if that's the shizo I can get that's what I'm getting - yours was nice to press as well. Come round this weekend man - Sez and I would like to see your new ride DumHed if the offer is still open I'll still take ya up on it I'm sure there is merit to what Iwells is saying that they're savage - and if so I'd like to try more than one BB clutch if possible. I guess there are savage BB and tamer BB clutches out there. Cheers guys!

Hey thanks DumHed what a legend. Can you please PM me your phone number? I'll give ya a buzz over the weekend or whenever you are free. If you do end up takign the clutch out, it's in good nick and reckon it'll go well in my car I'd be interested.. Since buying a clutch that you've tried is a bonus Cheers!

Great work funky - thanks for the groupbuy, no doubt I'll get a few mates in on this. I have a quick question for S-Kid, or anyone who has this installed and can answer. With the little T connector and soldered hole they get you to put in to relieve pressure after a "boost event" my question is does this bleed a tiny amount when you're on boost anyway? S-Kid I think you said you were going to keep it a specific size because you expect to have an exhaust put on - I didn't quite understand the reasoning behind this. Why would a free-er flowing exhaust mean you have less boost stuck in that line? Is it because the assumption is after a boost event it goes out through the exhaust easier? I'm just not too sure how to get the correct size to make sure I am relieving the pressure necessary, without losing too much. Ta.

No worries Anthony - thanks. Can you hook me up with the BB clutch you got as well should I need one? I just don't wanna get some other sort of BB clutch and plate doo-whacky only to find out it's totally different than yours. I heard the organics do well up to 200rwkw.. I'm looking for over 200rwkw and can't afford a twin And if my guy says I need a new clutch I'll drive out to ya - so long as I don't get rioted or rolled *packs glock into the glovebox* heh

I opened my engine bay yesterday and put my hand on my air filter. It was hot to touch.. infact uncomfortably hot. That's THROUGH the darn air shield. So my plan is- 1- heat tape wrap my inlet pipe (as it's metal it probably soaks a lot of heat) 2- re-do my air shield so it's more heat resistant and air tight My questions are- I have a cheap chinese style stainless manifold - if I wrap this I heard it may brake, I have a smaller type (x force) dump pipe that then goes into what I would call the front pipe, which leads into the cat. Would there be any benefit in wrapping the length from just after the dumppipe, to the cat? or should I just wrap my stainless manifold? If I make a custom heat shield of some sort to keep the heat away from the rest of the engine by basically sitting in front of the extractors/turbo, will I risk damaging anything by concentrating the heat in that area? The car is a sr20 cefiro. Thanks.

And it's very good it was brought up. I'll be watching this closely because I think I need some of this stuff