someonestolecc

Thanks Glen, I didn't realise there was oil in the clutch? Do you mean fluid? If so it's always full and looks nice. When the car is on and the clutch pedal is not pressed it actually makes a grinding type noise.. when you push the clutch pedal in it goes away (as soon as you press it the sound slows down as if it was spinning down and then stops). While I don't think that's the actual gearbox one thing that makes me think the gearbox is ALSO cactus is that 4th feels different to engage than all the other gears.

woot car engineer cert in the mail Mon/Tue !!

justjap - www.justjap.com also try sss automotive girraween (i think). Before you go buying ECUs for rare-ish cars you should probably pay your local sparky $50 to come down after work if that's a feasible thing ...just to tell you what's wrong. Question for you - I *think* when you put your car on reds the light on the ECU should come up... can you get your car on reds? Does the light come up?

Was tuning my iebc.. noticed smoke coming out of it.. turned out something shorted - I think only 1 resistor is shot.. but that means the car is on LIMIT-LESS BOOST. Anyways, coincidently I noticed water evaporating from my exhaust (some got in in the recent rain) so I decided to go for a quick spin to warm it up and evaporate it. So going along in 3rd coincidently it turns out I can't take it out of 3rd. MY CARS GEARBOX/CLUTCH IS now officially cactus. LOL I got stuck in 3rd had to drive home in 3rd.. then as I got outside my house luckily it all let up and I could put it into reverse, then got stuck in 1st for ages as well. Do engineers care about mechanical "worthiness" or just the safety aspects (ie structural/braking/etc)?? To remedy my situation I've got so far in the plan- Exedy 6 puk ceramic $600 s14 gearbox $700 Installation $$ Either that or try my "mystery" gearbox I bought from a sr20de for $100... hmm choices choices Does anyone know the best way to guess-timate the condition of a gearbox without opening it? Either way everyone please wish me luck for tommorrow arvo for engineering

For my quote I don't think it was.. I don't see it being that expensive when brakes rotors are like $6/ea to machine.

Yeah there are no cameras there. LOL.. sorry it happened but now that it has it's pretty funny :headspin:

That looks really nice. Thanks for the instructions - great result!

PHWOAOARRR that's nice.. that's damn nice. More info please I might have a go at something easy first like my intercooler pipes ;0

That's it. Gordon heh my folks live at St Ives so yeah I'm fairly familiar with the area there. No worries Ando thanks... unfortunately I don't know how to change a clutch or gearbox and that's the only MAJOR stuff comin up so I'm not sure Either way I'd be keen for a cruise when ya get your cef on the road.

Check your relays too I'm sure the fuses should protect these but yeah.. Also make sure there is no alarm/immobilser in there if that's blown up and not working there's a chance it may be still immobilising it. You may like to open your ECU up maybe theres a fuse in there too ? (just guessing).

All usual engine stuff like compression and leak down test. Pull off the air inlet check turbo for shaft play/scraping etc. Change all oils/fluids and look for chunks of metal or shavings (I got about 50 grams from my gearbox don't worry ). Dyno to make sure the tune/AFR is ok. Wheel alignment + balance good idea but if you wanna keep it drifty make sure you write the settings you want down and take it to the place. Suspension rubber etc .. check that. Exhaust manifold, looks for leaks etc. Tighten your door hinges .. i hate when doors sag Make sure the cage is in securely, make sure your seat is in securely, make sure your engine is in securely. I'm sure there are heaps more things but they would relate to any car..

I noticed my car sat waaay nicer handling wise and drift predictability wise with PU hard-assed pineapples (diff cradle bush thingies). For $70 highly recommended.

No worries - ceffies look so damn tough with a cage and every little thing that goes into my car to make it stiffer I end up loving. So I wish I had money to burn for a cage and a floor brace I will post up on Saturday as to what the engineer says - I'll then be looking for borrow some wheels for blue slip *looks at CEF11E* so if that all goes down well CRUISE soon! :wassup: Basket's car was landed with a rb25

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=13003

I use motul 8100 5/40 .. $60/bottle and a filter (JIC or something). I'll be using a heavier weight in summer.. car way too hot for 5/40 in summer.

Yes gearbox oil. For all the people who swear by this stuff as it making crunches go away make me wonder if they've ever tried it.

Thanks deviat - I still reckon yours looks madness. Lemme know if you don't want the cage. Basket - nice one good to hear you got your new stuff - am I to take it your engine was rebuilt also? Sounds exxy.. You'll get 200+ easy now, and a nice torquey curve also methinks.

I wouldn't have my pod exposed to the dirt or road grime.. especially if the wheel is throwing it up there. Oh well good luck either way

Shit yeah man!! Love chasers. Make sure you keep the half half tint job - I got that on my cef .. looks sweet

Gday Rhett, This was explained to me, so I can't take credit for having understood it on my own... Basically the restrictor/bleed peice acts to let off pressure built up between the normally closed solenoid and the wastegate actuator. When the actuator feels boost pressure (such as when your on boost) it will get to a certain pressure and then "actuate", to move the shaft that in turn opens the wastegate, letting pressure out around the turbine and keeping you at the stock boost level. When you put in the solenoid as part of this kit, it will be normally closed, so after you've been boosting and take your foot off the accell, the solenoid will shut. This traps the pressured air between the wastegate actuator and the shut solenoid, because that has nowhere to go (as it's not stuck between the actual wastegate itself, only the actuator) it will sit between the solenoid and actuator and keep your wastegate open, which means you will have absolutely NO boost because the wastegate actuator thinks you're on boost, and is keeping the wastegate open. Hope that makes sense.

It's all down to creative wiring. What they mean is "We can't do it with the alarm". If they wanted to do it for real they'd make something up, like... I'd do it the simplest way, which would be wire up the same outputs that run the windows to the "buttons" (the button wiring input) of the sunroof.. that way you'd get the protection of the sunroof switch so it would act as if you kept your finger on the button, instead of being wired straight up to the motors where it would try to keep closing it after it's already closed (frying/wearing down your motor). If the window relay from the alarm simply pulses, which sets of another relay to close your windows (much like the automatic switch on the driverside) then I'd say you'd need to wire a relay with a timer in between the alarm output and the sunroof, and calculate how long the sunroof takes to slide closed and set the time to that. [edit: you'd also have to wire power to the sunroof/windows when the accessories are off.. which would be a seperate thing - i dono how you get around that.] It's all in the wiring but anything is possible.

ugh.. i shouldnt have read this post before going to bed

Put the stock filter on with a performance panel Either that or put it in a box.

Utes are shit unless you're a tradie - but if you wanna put one into the race that's fine with me. Who cares really about if bogans hate ricers or if ricers hate bogans. If you like your car that's enough.. we spend too much time looking at what others are doing heh Even with a bung clutch I get a smile on my face when I take my car up and down my street just to keep the engine cranking over.

Good stuff - let us know how it goes.