someonestolecc

Nah don't get that kit it sucks. :sly:

DAMNNNnnnnnnnnn shieeeeeet those are hot rims. Need more dish but yeah they're noice. Then you'd need 5 stud and bigger brakes to show off. Unsprung weight = everything in your drivetrain (things your engine has to spin or turn etc)

Then don't get air bags and lose your 400kg of unsprung weight Infact... time for those J-style lightweight battle rims O_o

After I changed my gearbox oil I noticed streaks of oil up and down the side of my car.. funny thing was, even when I'd wash it and it didn't get moved with a cover on it, I'd come back and the streaks would be there. It looked like they were streaked from the bottom of the car to the top (not outward and toward the back of the car as if you'd expect if the car was moving forward). It stopped after a while and to me it's a plain mystery... perhaps it was leaking onto the driveshaft toward the outside of the car (although it's strange why it would then travel directly UP the side of the vehicle). Anyways in regards to your thing by "under the gearstick" do you mean like... looking at the car underneath it it leaked near wher ethe gearstick sits on top of the box? If so try the rubber seal around it, it often dies (I had to replace mine). Also I've heard of people with sils and liners that even after replacing that seal theirs still leak. Sure you didn't fill it up too much?

If you wanna just spend a few hundred bucks put on a t03 from a rb25. That's what ceffo had and his car was making 170rwkw and felt nice too.

in theory it'd let you boost up so you might see more kw from being able to boost it up safely.

I think he meant it's not insurance approved (no aussie standards compliance). I recently purchased an alarm from Chris Rogers (audio express). I found his service and price to be excellent and I got an alarm that did everything I wanted mine to do. I'd was wary of the viper for some reason (gut feel) and yeah I think it's a fast and the furious alarm If you do have to have it remember it sells on websites in USA for about $200-250 USD. Even with exchange rate and shipping I think it may be worth buying from there.

I'd like to know where I could have a look at one of these (I'm interested to see how it would filter). Where did you get it?

Spotted r34 "DHC" in front off... err.. a building opposite a park near Gas (Pitt Street) bout 12:30pm. Spotted "NUR" blue r34 v spec II GTR George Street about 3pm.

I second what S-Kid said about the soldering the link under the thing. I missed that one and had to do it on the bottom of the board, it worked fine after that :0 Also, make sure your hand controller is plugged in before you power it up. Also, check your ICs are in the right spots, I think when I switched them around to the wrong way it did this too.

Sorry GrandB - PM me your email address and I'll send em out again. I think I may have deleted it from my web host before you got to it. It's been such a pain since my web server went down (damn brother not paying bills heh heh) I can't get pics to anyone without downsizing them etc which is a pain... I swear email needs to die.

I really think it looks great. heh. The worst part about that supra as said above is the front end.. r34 front end is possibly the best skyline front end ever imo

Good stuff. Next tyres I'll be getting the 104's .. considering I'm no track warrior I'll stick with my nankangs now. nankang something dry 6/10 wet 4/10 value 8/10 federals dry 1/10 wet ?/10 value 2/10 (flatmates skyline.. duhhh waste)

Sorry mate haven't had a chance - been busy selling my XW. Will do it asa-I can !

I can't think of anything that would fix a HU that would be bodge enough to reasonably be expected to fail again. Did you know what that was because I could be wrong but it doesn't sound right to me. Expensive head units should be servicable, but I'd be weary of a place that does a bodge job just to get you "back on the road", I just don't get that mentality - you got any more info?

220 will be easy with a turbo rb30.. drool.. ideally that's what I'd have in my cefiro if I ever had it rebuilt

I think you can tell a viscous if you have the car up and turn one wheel it will turn the other wheel opposite. If it's a mechanical I think if you hold one and turn the other it will not turn unless the one your holding turns.. this applies to 1, 1.5 and 2 way. *i think*

Try Chris (http://www.audioexpress.com.au) for bulbs. Although he's taking a holiday starting tommorz for 3 weeks so... might have to wait till then but yeah I think I saw HID bulbs on his site. Good luck.

viscous as mentioned shouldn't clunk, otherwise something is broken.

Thanks for the diagnosis fusi0n. Assuming it's light enough when I get back to my car today I'll try adding another resistor and un-plugging my hand controller to see if the same thing happens.

Definately sounds like boxes. I had that problem, had to rev it to get it into 1st. Then it got harder.. and harder.. then it got stuck in gear.. i pulled it out.. then it got locked outta gear.. now this mmmgtir - thanks for support, nah I won't sell it, will pm you when it's ready to cruise tho fwd - when your clutch had welded onto the flywheel and got stuck in gear were you still able to move the car (as if the clutch was ok but it was just stuck in gear.) Cos i'm able to start the car and use the clutch to move the car alas in 3rd gear (makes for slow and high rev starts).

Thanks S-Kid your info is being printed off and I will check each one of those. I did give following it through the diagram but I couldn't guess my way through it so I appreciate you making it easy for us Beers on me if we ever meet!!

Yeah wtf he goes left ... then bounces and keeps acceling ..

Gday fusi0n, My board does the same thing. I've replaced it with 4 resistors (replugging stuff each time) and still the same thing. My story was that I plugged it all up, and it worked. Drove the car around a bit and tuned it etc it worked fine. Then I thought I'd mount it in the glove box and solder it to stuff instead of just letting it sit in the passenger footwell. I re-routed the wires and cables nicely and plugged it back up. Thats when the resistor started burning up. I made sure it was all plugged up the same way as it had been before. My cars been off the road since that happened but I'm keen to get to the bottom of it as I don't really want to buy another one, I'm very suprised also that the same resistor dies on you. The only thing I can suggest is when you're plugging your + and - in, check that it's according to what is on the PCB and not on the outside of the case. The case was opposite to what was on the PCB with my kit.

I think you mean LSD diff. If it's a mechanical LSD then yes it's normal to get a knock, I've heard different ones from a clunk to a thud to a knock. Try changing the oil if it's old. I think the sound is when the clutch pack engages the other gear.