Beer Baron

yeah mate I can see why you'd have mixed feelings about selling it. especially since this one is the snowy spec evoII version. with all the knowledge you learnt from the previous builds on the blue car. plus this one is still nice and fresh. not a 5 season old warrior that is in need of a new chassis and full makeover like many cars for sale. anyway, I'm sure the new car will put those second thoughts behind you.

good stuff snowy. I thought a 35 might be the new direction. Should be a gun. I agree 100% on the 997 thing. double the cost of an R35 (well more than double) for a similar level or performance. and possibly the R35 is better on tarmac? hope you get a quick sale of the old car and move on to the new one.

well in that first link the probes are 500w vs 400w for the bands, plus the probes are in the oil. personally I'd buy that first kit. for $35USD you get a few probes and some bands too. have a play and see what you come up with. or buy that peterson tank I linked for like $200 delivered and replace your current tank with that one (if it's suitable) then just wire up the heaters and bobs your uncle. may need a power inverter though if they are 100v. still not hard.

pretty good. the big difference i noticed on street vs semis (A050, A048 etc) is that the Z1s don't tramline like the semi's do. real semis on the street on poor roads tramline so badly they just about rip the wheel from your hand at times. The z1's obviously a bit more noisy than comfort spec road tyres but still very liveable unlike semi's. but yeah from tirerack they are cheap cheap.

they are a good clutch. actually made by ORC. I have one in my S13 silvia and its very nice to use.

pretty sharply priced for a front running EM car that is only freshly built. you should have no trouble selling it mate.

yeah fk me dead tyre rack is cheap. give me a reach around and i'll buy you a set too! no way would I go back to ku36 and in fact I reckon the Z1* against an R888 would be interesting. on light cars the R888 might have the edge but we know they suffer on heavy stuff where as the Z1* seem to be good as gold. i rate 'em.

nice. it should turn out very nice. going all 1 piece for the dash or does it need to be sectioned?

loving the thread mate. great stuff. I would love to come and talk with john about his ideas one day. he is a fantastic craftsman that's for sure. I run a motec in my 32 too, not nearly as comprehensive as yours though! but it does run very nicely. I'll echo some previous thoughts on using an EFR turbo. I have a lot to do with both borg warner and full race at the moment and would be happy to make an introduction? I'm sure they could supply the info john needs to make an informed decision about their product. pm me if interested.

lock it in eddy. july at the counts. I'll come play at wakefield and EC with you too. and the rest of the time we can watch our spa and nurburgring footage and sink cans in comfort. you'll love the new place mate. I've got your bedroom all set-up with spew bucket and everything....

lol! I'm not sure what you're on but they need to raise or lower the dosage! NOW!!!

you need to decide if you want a cheap GTR or a good GTR. cheap GTR then just buy one locally. you will get something for low-mid 20s. if you want a good GTR you need to be willing to spend 25-30K and if you want a vspecII (and not a rubbish one) then be prepared to spend $30+. but think of it like this, a cheap clapped out GTR for $20K. now buy some wheels and an exhaust and fix a few problems. that's an easy $5K. might as well have just bought a good one to start with. sadly due to their ages there are many, many more bad GTRs than good ones. the few good ones out there command much more money. both in aus and in japan. me personally I wouldn't even go looking for a 32 GTR with less than $30K to spend cause even if you buy the cheap one for $20K you'll need that $10K to make it halfway decent.

yep they'll be banned for sure sooner or later. they are already knobbling them by reducing the amount of exhaust gas you can produce off the throttle (see the previous article on RBR posted a day or so back).

cheers for that sav-man. I would have guessed that to be about right. they are amazing for a road tyre. I'm going to put them on all my road cars from now on I think.

yep, they cannot re-fuel during races any more so they start with a full load. it means they approx 8 seconds off their ultimate pace at the start of the race. another problem of that is if they underestimate a little they then have to go to fuel saving mode (turn down engine performance) and trundle around off the pace just to make sure they can finish.

yeah I like the RSR too. have admittedly only used them once. but i was really surprised buy the dunlop Z1*. I currently have AD07s on one car, Ad08s on another (both GTRs), RT615s on another and the Z1* on the evo and I reckon of those four the Z1* is the better tyre. their UTQG is a bit higher than others but remember UTQG is not an outright indication of grip or compound. it's simply a treadwear rating. so it tells you about how long the tyre lasts. yes generally a lower number means a softer more grippy tyre but don't get too hung up on it as a pure indication of grip as that's not what it is.

neil we never ran priming in the dry sump cars i've been involved with but it does have a heater and did have a low pressure shut off (has overide for starting). when starting the car there is a separate fuel/ign switch. you simply leave those off and crank the engine on the starter (so no fuel or ign happening). oil pressure comes up so fast it's not funny and on the starter the engine is only spinning at a few hundred rpm max (not 1500+ like it would be at cold idle if you just started it and let pressure rise) and of course no combustion is taking place. as the brad said oil doesn't really drain back through the pump and lines when shut off so that's not really a problem. I wouldn't bother with 1 way valves in those lines. just one more thing to add.

oh, and get it on MY105 mate. probably car sales worth a shot too.

bummer snowy. it was your ultimate 34 after all the stuff you learnt with the builds you did on the blue car. seems pretty fair on price for a very freshly built and very competitive 34. it's only really been completed for what 6 months or so? most people getting the chance to buy a full built car are looking at ones that have done a good few years of comp and really need a overhaul. the real question is then what are you going to replace it with? super lambo? is there any use in a GT3 or 911 turbs these days? I would think a 997 turbs would be a good thing with awd and bags of power and torque. tyres maybe be an issue though but jim seemed to manage ok over the years. or is a full on R35 GTR the go? maybe vspec or the RC spec etc? either way I hope it goes well for you mate. greatly envious of whoever buys the 34. not bad to buy into a car that can run up the front in EM for $70K. and still rego'd so you can drive your mum to the shops in it too.

nice mate. good job on the oil cooler instal and good man for creating an exit path for the air. they are nearly useless without one and yeah the jap oil cooler kits are expensive compared to the chinese ones but they are worth every penny. they are better in about a dozen ways I can think of...

car looks awesome mate. and yeah brissasaurus racing evo 1 seat rail is still firmly attached to my seat mate. fark it's heavy though so if you do go ahead with evo III make me one! I'll actually pay for it this time... ps I still have your koyo radiator here mate. want me to send it? or sell it? etc. come up and stay at my place for a bit. i'm bored, have spare room and a keg of beer.

I'll drink to that. you're in the right place then mate. I think that's what we all want. teams pushing the edge of design and development, and drivers pushing those designs to their limit on the track. don't get me wrong, I do enjoy the strategy aspect of F1, but you're right for a new viewer it takes a bit to get your head around. it was also a fair bit more interesting when they were allowed to stop for fuel too as you could then manage your cars weight (and thus speed) at various points in the race. you basically got to choose when your car would be quick and when it would be slow and if you chose well you got rewarded. now you know everyone is slow at the beginning and quick and the end so that really their relative pace is the same. fast wearing tyres have turned it around a bit now as you are quicker on fresh rubber so you can manage things that way but it's not quite the same...

yeah elf LMS smells wildly different to the other unleaded race fuels i've used and it is massively carcinogenic and it burns your skin too. lovely. avgas is not exactly good for you either and is leaded but cost vs benefit it's pretty good. the elf's big advantage is how highly oxygenated it is. can make great power with it. but yeah the price is out of this world. kind of smells like a fruity paint thinner.

and yes stiffen the bars and dampers too if you can. slicks will take far stiffer set-up than road tyres/semis.

I dunno what race you watched but sergio drove a great race and 1 stopped to get from 13th on the grid to finish in 7th place which is well inside the points last I checked (and even under the old system was still inside the points). he was dsq after the race for a completely un-related infraction which was their rear wing. he most certainly did 'finish' the race though. anyway, what's the argument? I never said it was a great strategy. I was trying to explain why things look confusing to a new F1 fan and what I said was 100% correct. why argue?