Beer Baron

seriously just get the towie to take it direct to the compliance workshop. that stuff about 'traffic' plates is 100% bullshit. try it and see how the cops laugh as they write out your ticket. I still wonder at how dumb people are who hear that "rule" and believe it. how would it possibly work? and why wouldn't everyone just write out their own plates with 'taffic' on them and save money on rego? you can legally drive an unregistered vehicle for the purposes of obtaining registration. BUT in NSW the RTA have declared that you cannot drive an un-complied vehicle on the road AT ALL. hence why all cars must now be collected from ports by a tow truck. seriously save the hassle, get it dropped and the workshop and go play with it over there. the sooner it gets there, the sooner it's finished and the sooner you can drive it for real.

marlin, R33 would be 19X11. as they had 17X9 stock. it goes: R32 16X8 R32 Vspec (some run as this I believe?) 17X8.5 R33 17X9 R34 18X9 so just add your 2X2 to those.

best bet is sell your swaybar and buy the whiteline one which is made to fit with RB30...

there's nothing wrong with mild steel exhausts. the best exhaust trust make (made) is the power evolution (not to be confused with power extreme). it's 94mm ID, has all v-band connections (except where it bolts to your front pipes), and is all mild pipe with a stainless muffler for looks. lovely exhaust, sound amazing and no problem with durability either. I've had both mild and stainless and find mild tends to sound better as in general mild tend to use slightly thicker wall pipe and it gives a nice rich sound with out the 'tinny' sound you get from some thin wall stainless systems (especially all the chinese ones, xforce etc that sound like rubbish). though having said that I've currently got titanium system on the car and it sounds pretty good but my god it's loud. thinking about swapping it for my mild steel power evo... lol.

love it dave. don't worry i'll have a cheap getrag for you. or if you flog all your old gear buy a bloody hollinger! shame the bloody engine's ally bits are all bloody coroded. fken yanks. it would look so pretty otherwise. still it looks clean inside which is what counts.

yes the restrictor is there to limit the volume of pressured air making it to the gauge. think of a straw with 5psi through it. now think of a 4 inch pipe with 5psi through it. both have 5psi of air. think about what psi is. pounds per square inch. so 5psi through a straw may do nothing more than blow bubbles in your milkshake. through a 4 inch hose 5psi might be enough force to push open a steel door. cheap gauges have cheap insides and having a big volume of compresed air in there is not good for them. it's there to protect the gauge. it also effectively shortens the intake tract as all those little hoses need to be filled with compressed air when your engine goes onto boost. not likely you'd notice 1 length of 4mm or 6mm hose but they can add up.

lol you guys are lazy as fk! how hard is it to hold up a 20L gerry can? maybe need to do some weight lifting steveo! fuel flows out of them a shitload faster than using a GTR pump or even an 044. and carrying around that rig sounds like a pain in the arse. a good jiggler (metal one) also work very well and flow pretty quickly. you also have the risk of sparks, failure, or if not paying attention it will start overfilling the tank and pump fuel out everywhere.

34 dumps are better than 33 dumps, but I'm not so sure about the front pipes. they are easy enough to remove/replace at home so by all means pull yours off and compare them to the 34 ones. might need to swap over some brackets etc from your 33 pipes to the 34 pipes. make sure you refit the gearbox bracket as it supports the weight of the front pipes otherwise they are hanging off the turbos... not good.

I've got noting against the backyard turbo effort with free/cheap parts but can't help but think that that turbo which has a larger ex housing and wheel than the comp housing and wheel is going to be a pig of a thing on the astron donk. turbos are cheap these days. there is no need to spend $2500 for a turbo for your banger. I reckon with $200 in your hand you could find something really good. a turbo that made 152hp in conjunction with a supercharger on a 2 stroke diesel that only spun to 2,500rpm is not going to do the business on a 4 stroke petrol engine running to 5,000rpm. for the sake of a couple bucks by something a bit better. even something like the evo turbo you used previously would be a much better option.

no, he's right. you retard the exhaust cam, and yeah it makes a big difference. every car is different though but generally I've found with stock cams on a 26 you end up in the sweet spot somewhere between 2-4 degrees retard on exhaust side, and anywhere from 2-6 degrees advanced on the inlet side.

yep, that should fix it. but don't buy the split dump, buy the bellmouth dump. in my experience they work better.

nice one mate. very good idea and execution. don't think it's the first GTR though. JEM have one running the same zeitronix sensor (they are a dealer of that stuff) and set up in a 32 which is putting out 500odd kw with the flex fuel capability too. still certainly 'one of the first' for sure. I want to see how it drives. thinking I will do the same with my bunky old 32. it's currently got sard 1000s, nismo intank, motec ecu, 2530s etc. Seems like I'd only need the zeitronix sensor and some plumbing done. hell I may even do a road trip to melb and get trent to tune it. what do you say trent? you keen to have a stab at an old banger with a jun 2.7 in it?

very sorry to hear about your accident Aaron. Hope you are not in too much pain and that your are able to recover all the mobility you had before the acco. take care.

it really depends what you want. proper driving shoes (racing shoes) are no good for doing any more than the 10 steps from your pit garage to your car and back again. so if you want to wear them in your car at non track events or even do a lot of walking around in the pits they are no good. luckily there are some good 'cross-over' type shoes now that whilst not full on driving shoes are good for driving in and still fine to walk around in. sparco have some good ones. oakley have some, puma have some (but more targeted at walking/fashion than driving I think). The puma's are comfortable and cheap though. if you want all out driving booties then RPM, Sparco, alpinestars and there are plenty of others out there too. just be aware than any decent walking in them will leave you with sore feet and worn out booties.

yeah i'm sure it'll be fine dude. there is no doubt the eagles are better than stock rods which is all you really need to worry about.

the current turbosmart gates look quite good. i've personally had success with the HKS GT2 gates and sold a few and all got nice stable boost control regadless of high or lower boost levels. they are not cheap but they are a beautiful gate. come in 50 or 60mm too.

yeah best bet is shannon with laid up cover. my track car not currently road driven is on that. so basically covers you for damage in the garage (someone drops something on it etc), theft from the garage, damage on a trailer or theft, etc. doesn't cover you while you're driving it at all though. but it's very affordable and good piece of mind.

you tha man seb! lol. love the GT style bonnet. they are such a cool look on the 35. they really break up the front end nicely.

they should last longer than that. excessive dog wear can be due to too many slow shifts on the street. I'm sure you know the dogs are sacrificial anyway in that they are meant to wear as that style of engagement is pretty brutal and the corners get knocked off the dog teeth pretty quick with a few slightly off or slow shifts. you do need to shift fairly quickly and firmly. almost the complete opposite of a synchro box (but again i'm sure you already know this stuff). I would say a first a pull down after ever track day or second track day would be a good idea. after that you'll get a feel for how things wear and how often you need to be pulling it down to service. The price seems a bit harsh but I'm not sure how else you can get it. why is there 31% tax? I'm assuming that's local tax in england? you certainly shouldn't have to pay that tax to PPG, in fact it should be tax free (ie 10% less than the aussie local price).

yes stud pattern is fine. centre bore you will need to check but it's most likely the same and if not adapters are common and easy to make as a last resort. however they are 20inch for starters and come with massive tyres. personally I think they'll look stupid on a GTST. but sure they can be made to fit, you'll most likely need rolled guards and maybe even need to flare them both front and rear.

forget N1 crank. all you need is a R33 RB26 crank. they have the larger oil pump drive flats. cost about $1500 for a new crank (and well worth it for a rebuild). Bearings, yeah ACL are fine, stock nissan also fine (but retail price is a bit exxy). nismo are nice too but again a bit pricey. 100s of RB26 with ACL or king bearings with no real problems in the materials. VRS kit, the tomei kit is actually not bad, comes with nice 1.2mm MRS head gasket, oil restrictor, and upgraded inlet and exhaust gaskets. or there is the genuine nissan kit. or cometic kit. pistons. there are so many choices. comes down to budget first, then preference. if you like jap stuff the tomei pistons are beautiful. very quiet and handle plenty of powa! they are not too expensive these days either, come with good ring set too. otherwise most of the china pistons are not bad, some US piston are great too. cost anywere from $800 for cheapies up to $1500 for top shelf stuff like tomei. on this note tomei rods are really well price now at $1100. they are a new design with a number of small improvements. I'd use them without question since they are not much more $$ than the china stuff. head studs, up to you. some people swear by them, some prefer to stick with bolts (means in a pinch you can remove/replace head in car). ARP if you want head studs. some builders have brand preference for various bits so best to talk to them before you buy too much stuff.

yep exactly. so many people tell me XXX rotors are on backwards because the slots. which way the slots face makes zero to nothing difference. what matters (as you found) is which way the vanes are rotating and curved vane rotors can only be mounted 1 way. less crucial with straight vane rotors of course. looks nice mate.

looks great mate. yeah front diff is a big change hey?! but so much more traction is unbelievable. great on circuit but does need a bit of a different driving style. well worth it though. new brakes look awesome too.

nice one mate. you will love the hollinger, best money you'll spend on the car. bet you were impressed with how compact and light they are for such a stout 6 speed sequential box? they are a better thing in every way. better gears, better engagement, sequential, better casing and on and on. well worth the $20odd thou. espcially considering doing a full house gearset upgrade in a stock housing these days can run to $13-$15K by the time you do all the little upgrades and have it all assembled. no such drama with the hollinger and they are so nice to drive.

agree. doing all that stuff to a standard engine is a waste of money. to fit just an N1 pump (which won't solve bugger all anyway) you have to remove + replace engine ($1,000-$1,500 in labour) and buy pump ~$500. That's nearly $2K just to fit an oil pump. Then if you want to do the oil feed restrictor that's head off (another hour at least in labour, need head and block surfaces cleaned at the least or possibly machined if not flat, plus need to buy new head gasket). all to fit a $5 oil restrictor. Then you still haven't addressed the sump so now your high flow pump is emptying your sump even quicker than before. Plus you haven't addressed the oil returns either (the internal oil returns should be enlarged to aid flow back to the sump). Plus as duncan said you still now have a standard engine. To do it all properly it's over $3K buy larger volume sump over $1,000 oil pump $500 up to $1800 for tomei (average spend is about $1,000 for a Jun/nitto pump, or a N1 pump + billet gears) crank collar $150 new headgasket, $150 up to $350 for a brand name MLS gasket restrictor $10 remove/replace engine $1,000 ported oil returns maybe $300 machining head and block $100 having done all this you still have a 20year old tired engine and have spent around $3,500-$4,000 just to address some oil control issues. all my cars with standard motors that have lived were on the following regimen. keep power to 300rwkw or less. keep revs to 7,500rpm or less. use the best oil I could buy (in my eyes, motul chrono 300V 10W40 but there are other good ones too), change that oil regularly, get a used oil analysis done (cheap) to tell you engine health and how the oil is performing. buy and fit a good oil cooler (put it in the side duct with proper ducting and air exit path). Do all these things and your engine should live (unless it already has a problem, or is really really high mileage). Doing those things ensures your engine has good oil, and good stable temps all the time. keeping revs down helps stop the pump emptying the sump at an astronomical rate and keeping power down to a sensible amount keeps things happy longer. 300rwkw in a GTR is still a good fun level or power. Doing this stuff won't cost the earth. even a top line Jap oil cooler (which are excellent) is around $1,000 but you'll need it down the track anyway if you do build a motor and go for more power so it's a good investment. plus they have good resale too. on the other hand try reselling the $1500 spent removing and replacing the engine to fit the N1 pump, or even try selling a used N1 pump. it's money down the drain on a standard motor. doing it to a built motor is different. They are already out of the car and all that stuff is easy and smart to do then.