Beer Baron

either resize them (I think the max for the site is 1200X1200) or upload and link them via imageshack etc.

lol, no can't compete with that brighty. the tool-rag's are a great car. I'd be happy to borrow it any time it's free.

they look like this: see the little picture of the race car on the battery? just above it is the point where the vent tube connects. most come with the tube too. any battery world shop will supply one. edit: found an even better pic. you can see clearly where the drain tube attached on this one.

I think it's just due to the fact that they always print their 'logo' straight across. it's usually quite small and the same colour as the tyre so of no consequence but now that it's huge and yellow it looks a bit stupid. If they don't want to bend their recognisable logo they should just leave the P-Zero bit on the tyre and make the cars run the pirelli logo somewhere on the barge boards or something instead of on the tyre.

I don't mean a camera you put on your head. I mean camera set-ups with the camera head seperate from the recorder. like a VIO POV. I would look at one of those. lots of support, easy to use and great footage. you can pick up a used one on ebay for reasonable money these days.

cool. personally though I'd still buy one of the batteries with the vent tube on it. they are not really any more expensive than other batteries of similar quality and size and it's nice to have the knowledge that if it does need to vent it's not going to do so all over your wiring, or surge tank or whatever.

yeah the navara's are quite good. I've used a navara STR turbo diesel for years for towing. has a chip, exhaust, more boost etc to get it going and now has plenty of torque. the only downside I can name is that Russ (giant) literally ripped the arse end out of his after a couple years of regular towing. we've lent the navara to mates who have done some retarded shit in it too, like drive off with the jockey wheel down etc and it's still survived. and like you say they have lots of cabin space for stuff you want locked up and a decent amount of room in the tray too.

I'll drink to that. my 2 favourite drivers. they were great as a team in the late 90s and great as a team again this year winning at PI and Bathurst. not bad. I still have a giant poster of skaife and lowndes standing in front of their 99 HRT cars with the heading "giving them the old 1, 2 in 99". only lowndes was the no1 man and skaife was the no 2 which was a feeling he didn't have very often in his career.

bummer. sad to say you will most likely get the suspension too. but it sounds like you have good grounds for applying for the hardship licence so at least that avenue is open. fingers crossed they don't hand down the suspension but I'm fairly sure they will. I hope I'm wrong.

I would advise strongly against the Tein Super streets. they are cheap twin tube shock and absolute entry level teins. not great really. the upper level tein stuff is great but their entry level stuff is not so great. I'd also stay well away from the BCs and the other china brands. You want comfort. My advice would be: set of used V-spec shocks and springs. will be cheap. certainly less than $1000. Id say more like $500-$800 for a good set. Set of nismo S-tunes with the springs (like what Matt is selling). they are a good shock and give great handling. they are a little firm but by no means uncomfortable. or a set of bilsteins with some suitable springs (around 6kg front 4kg rear is plenty but seek some good advice on that) and valved to suit. Cost probably around $1500 for shocks and springs but are quite good. if it were my car I'd probably go the S-tune option. Nismo parts like these are designed for road cars and have comfort and safety in mind when built. they are a good set-up for a road R34 GTR. I have had a set myself in my old silver R34 (now owned by GTRNUR on this forum).

no they are the wrong ones. they are for GTST series 2. you want the 232 473A.

the noltec ones are great but it' a big job to change them. whole subframe out and then holesaw/cut/oxy torch to get the old bushes out then a press to get the new ones in. it's a great idea but be aware of what your getting yourself into and if getting it done at a shop get a quote first as the hours add up... the other cheap option is the collars that just clamp down on the worn out factory bushes. but the full replacements are the best idea.

sorry to disagree with all the 'hella flush' fans but they are the wrong offset and too wide for your car. that's the problem. a set of 18X9 around offset +30 is more suitable (maybe even look at 18X8.5 for the front). with a 235 or 245 tyre they should fit inside the guards fine without having to modify the guards or run excessive amounts of camber. next time see if you can test fit any wheels or tyres you buy before leaving the shop. The rims you have a suitable for 33 and 34 GTRs and pretty much fine on R32s too (though with the 265 tyres will probably rub the inner guards) so you could easily sell them to a 33 or 34 GTR owner and recoup most of your money.

hang on. the original poster has a 32 GTR. they have a clutch pack 2 way LSD standard. if working correctly they will chirp wheel or shudder a bit when doing tight and slow turns. this is the LSD locking up and as one wheel has to travel a shorter distance than the other you get a chirp or a judder. it could be just that you are turning a bit more aggressively now and noticing it? as for starscream do you have a GTR or GTST? it makes a difference they have very different LSDs. one is clutch pack type mech LSD, the other is viscous LSD (and they do wear out and single spin badly).

i would start with replacing the clutch fan and flushing out the radiator you have. most of the cheap chinese radiators on the market look shiny and that's about it. they are super heavy and most of them perform worse than standard. I have seen many cars with no temp problems swap to a chinese alloy rad 'for safety' only to find their car starts running much hotter than it did before and end up going back to standard. if you really want to upgrade the radiator look for a quality upgraded core with standard type tanks. it can be done for $400 or so, maybe even $300. that's for a quality core of maybe 30mm or so.

yeah, ARC 70mm coolers weigh 4kgs..... something to think about! especially when that weight is right up the nose of the car where you least want it. their 70mm GTR cores are actually lighter than the standard 60mm GTR cooler. the chinese cores are super heavy. just like the chinese radiators... feel the weight of a aftermarket chinese alloy radiator vs a stock calsonic radiator. the difference is startling.

if you really want to just run an internal gate turbo then your best bet is probably to sell the manifold, gate and turbo you have to someone who does want that cop bait under bonnet look and then you can just buy another internal gate turbo that hasn't been modified and away you go.

plan b you have it all wrong mate. peak is just whatever peak it's hit at any point since the controller has first been used. you can clear it and start again so you can find your actual peak. the limiter is not limiting your boost. it's a 'safety' function. what it does is if your boost level goes over the warning level for a set period you can try to lower it using the 'limiter' for safety. it's most likely been set at 34psi so it's not in use. you don't need it is a pretty useless feature. if your car is overboosting past your warning level then you have 1 of 2 problems. either your boost is set higher than your warning (in which case you need to either raise the warning or lower the boost) or there's a hose off somewhere (in which case the 'limiter' won't work anyway). the key settings are: Set boost (reads in % up to 100): this controls what boost you will run. there is no fixed conversion from % to psi etc. it's just a percentage between 0% (wastage open as soon as spring pressure exceeded) to (100% being wastegate full closed will run unlimeted boost). you need to adjust this to get the right boost level you want. Gain (also set as a % out of 100): this controls the duty cycle of the solenoid. you use this to fine tune the boost control so that once it hits target boost it holds it nice and flat without spiking or without tappering off. start boost (reads in psi or bar or whatever you've chosen): this is the setting that holds the wastegate shut until you want them to open. so if your target is say 1bar you could set this to .8bar so it will ramp up hard to .8bar and then start to control the boost to the 1bar you want. it cannot be set too close to your target or boost will spike all the time. the warning setting you just set it above your target so if you want 1bar set the warning to say 1.2bar. and the limiter I explained above. they are not needed really at all. if it's set up properly then they are just added wanky settings. Just so you're clear: they do not have any affect on the actual boost control under normal operation the only settings you need to change to have it working properly are the set boost, gain and start boost. and in fact you don't even need the start boost if your gate spring pressure is close to your target boost. on one of my cars it's been set with only set boost and gain and it works perfectly. Read the manual a few times so you understand it properly that will help. they are a good EBC for the price and can give very good boost control. like anything they are only as good as the bloke setting them up.

yeah I would be sending the oil away for analysis. it's cheap (under $50) and will tell you what is going on. and yeah get the leak down test done too, it's not hard.

well done. yeah some of those mobile thread repair dudes are awesome. hands like a surgeon! lol.

yeah 33s and 34s are sitting in the boot but they are sealed on top and have an external vent/drain pipe. it's just a little clear plastic pipe about 8mm diameter and I guess they've just covered the top of the battery with a plastic cover with just the single vent hole with pipe on it instead of little vents on each cap. they are easy to find and no more expensive than other batteries of similar size. not sure if you have battery world in melb but if you do go there and ask for an R34 GTR battery and you should get what you need.

budget option is a mini DV cam or just some kind of handy cam type camera with standard mount fitted to a roll cage mount or suction mount (not really an option for the handy cams though). after that I'd go for a used POV 1 or 1.5. they are super reliable, easy to use and give great results and with a cheap external mic give good audio too. mounting wise I always use a roll cage mount even with the small light POV camera heads but for a system like them with the small remote camera head you can get away with suction mount too.

yeah the whole point of so called 'coolant' is that it lowers the freezing point so your liquid doesn't freeze up at 0 degrees C. like dunc said it doeasn't really help much with the cooling capacity it does raise the boiling point a bit but under 0.9-1.3 bar pressure (depending on your cap seat pressure) water's boiling point is increased a fair bit anyway. that's what stops is boiling in your engine, the pressure. under 1 bar atmospheric pressure plus the added 1 bar system pressure pure water will boil only at about 120C.

lol. could have been skaife though...

have a look at how R34 GTRs do it. they have a little vent tube that exits through a small hole (with rubber grommet) in the boot floor. with a battery like that you would probably not have to box it. places like battery world etc have those batteries. they are basically a normal battery that are sealed on top with just one vent for overflow or gas and it comes with the tube already attached. that's what I'd use. they are designed to be used in the boot space of cars (like R33 and R34 GTR etc).