Beer Baron

well first of all I'd say it's faulty sensor. as to why they both disconnect when you unplug one of them I have no idea but it certainly sounds like one or both of your sensors need replacing.

sounds good mate. can't doubt his pedigree then as both the tilton evo and BSM GTR are top shelf cars. I thought BSM built their own engines though speaking to Jeff but not everyone is 100% clear all the time and Jeff is pretty hard of hearing these days!! I'm running a jun 2.7 in my car now too but with little HKS 2530s. tempted to switch to something single but about to start some testing on some new turbos so will see how they perform.

yeah it's normal mate. a tight mech LSD (regardless of 1way, 1.5way or 2way) will give you some nasty noises and bumps and chattering when new and tight and can do even for a long long time. when doing tight slow turns it may feel like the arse end is about to fall out of your car but believe me it's fine. I'm sure the workshop in japan you are using knows what a new LSD is like so if you are really worried get them to drive but my bet is it's completely normal. the reason is they lock up under the slightest throttle application so at low speed tight turns you have one wheel needing to travel a shorter distance than the other but as they are effectively locked together by the diff you either get some tyre chirping (wheel slips on the surface) or the diff locking and unlocking providing the chatter/shudder.

sorry, you are wrong. all 32 GTRs have finned rear diff cover and all are mech 2way LSD (you were right on second part. ). vspec 32 GTRs have the active diff and usually have a plain cover (like normal 33 GTRs have) but some have the finned cover like all the other 32s (no idea how or why). it gets a bit confusing as 33 GTRs are the opposite. standard ones have a plain cover, vspecs have the finned cover.

I don't know anyone that's used them. I think johnny at unique used either these or the similar looking hoosiers that are basically a slick with the minimum number of grooves required to meet DOT approval for road use. however I wouldn't try driving on the road with them, any state in aus and the police would be all over you apart from the fact that any wet weather driving and you'd find yourself in trouble. on the track though they should be quite good but if you are driving in a class that requires road legal tyres check with the organisers first if they allow these tyres as some road legal classes exclude slicks like this that just have 2 grooves in them.

you don't need twin GTX30s. if you want twins stick with proven set-ups like garret -5s (HKS 2530s) they will get you to 350kw. otherwise just chose a turbo suitable for your power level. yes you don't need a fuel rail. yeah probably 1000hp you would consider one mandatory as by that stage you'd want to be running a twin feed rail. but there is no harm fitting one if you want it. it's just another few hundred bucks that you don't really need to spend. 1000cc injectors are fine if you ultimately want 1000hp but then the drop in sard/nismo/tomei pump won't be able to pump enough fuel to supply them. for what you want I would stick with a nismo in tank fuel pump and a set of sard 700cc injectors. they are good for 700hp which is more than enough for a standard 20 year old engine. you don't need anything else fuel system wise (except maybe add a direct power feed wire from your battery with a relay to the fuel pump to ensure it's getting good voltage) yes it's true the japanese oil cooler kits (trust, blitz and HKS) are very good quality and fit and perform very well. they cost a lot compared to the cheap universal chinese kits but they fit perfectly and work and keep working for years. I would spend the extra dough and get a good one. I prefer trust but if you like the blitz one for whatever reason there is nothing wrong with them either. as for tuner recommendations there are heaps in sydney, go and see some and talk to them about what you want or at least call them up. get some quotes etc. Envy imports in brookvale have great facilities and do good work, they are also doing lots of E85 stuff at the moment if you're inclined to go that way. I also like HITMAN which is way out west (like penrith way), Matt is a good tuner and has been doing power FCs for years and years. Scott at Insight motorsport is a very smart guy and a good tuner too, so is Ben at Unique Autosports. None of them are perfect though, so my advice is talk to a few and find one you are comfortable with, or that's close to you or whatever measure you want to compare them all by.

there is no much you can do really if you want to run stock 32 GTR wheels. you can get a spacer to run the standard calipers with 324mm rotors but the spacer design is a bit of a compromise as it's only spacing the caliper out a very small amount (324mm-296mm=28mm/2=14mm). 14mm means you need to have the holes offset as there just will not be enough meat in a caliper spacer to drill the 2 sets of holes. the other problem is even with standard sumi calipers it's unlikely they will fune under stock 32 GTR wheels with the 324mm disks and the caliper spaced out to suit. if you want the 'ultimate' standard GTR set-up. I would rebuild the calipers with the project MU rebuild kit (it includes alloy pistons which save a bit of weight and it will refresh your calipers) , then get a set of project MU 2 piece rotors (good but expensive), and some better pads like project mu titan HC+ or endless CCR or CCX, add to that gear some brake ducting to help keep them cool and some braided lines, good fluid, master cylinder stopper and you're on the way to some improvement. remove the dust shields too. if you want to go even further run some titanium backing plates behind your pads they supposedly help stop heat transfer from the pad into your caliper and fluid.

yes R34 brembos will fit onto 32 GTR. there is no changes needed to mount the disks at all. the only problem is with the caliper mounting lugs. they use a different size bolt, so you either drill out the holes in the lugs on your hub (not my preferred approach) or you get someone to drill and put a timesert or helicoil into the caliper lugs so they will fit using the 32 GTR bolts. I went this option with my 34 brembos as not only is is easier to ensure they are drilled straight (being off the car) but it also means you now have a steel insert into the caliper mounts which is much stronger than just thread cut into the alloy, it also means your 32 GTR can have the original brakes re-fitted if you need to in the future. the master cylinder sizes between 32 GTR and 34 GTR are slightly different but you can safely use a 32 master with 34 brembos. if down the track your master goes though you may as well replace it with the 34 sized master.

no you still don't understand. PSI is a measure of PRESSURE. it has nothing to do with any quantity of air. turbo's are measured in lbs/min that is pounds per minute of airflow. wolverine's example was perfect. in that example your mouth is the compressor of the turbo (supplying the air), the body of the bottle is the engine and the bottom where you poke a hole/bigger hole/cut if off is the exhaust side of the turbo. understand that the turbine housing stuck on the side of an engine is a restriction to exhaust flow. it's literally robbing your engine of some energy (power) and using it to drive the turbine which drives the compressor, the compressor compresses air and stuffs it into your engine. the bigger the compressor the more air it can compress at a given moment and the bigger the turbine the less restriction there is to flow in the exhaust. the other problem is you are thinking about this in terms of a static measurement. you must include some measurement of time to compare these things. hence turbo's flow potential being measured in lbs/min of air flow. as in how many pounds can this compressor provide in one minute (at a given pressure). the pipe on your engine has nothing (little) to do with it. change nothing else but your turbo. a standard turbo is still only going to flow X amount of air per min at 10psi and a much bigger turbo is going to provide much more air per minute at 10psi, and I thought wolverine's was the best explanation so for.

yeah I know that's a problem when you have 400kw! try getting on it hard in 4th gear it should have plenty traction in RWD at those speeds, then try in AWD. you will find it feels a bit quicker in RWD but it's not a huge amount. if it were really 50kw I would say find some stickier rear tyres, cut off the transfer case and enjoy the cheapest 50kw we will ever make!

what's the thread on the barbed fittings supplied for the apexi djetro power FC kits? it would be around M6 for sure. I might have a few around. other choice is buy the barb you can get and drill and re-tap the right thread?

yeah agreed the testing bad sucks but I'm with stinky. I would not want my mega buck F1 drivers doing tarmac rallies on their time off. the stats tell you the chance of damage is high.

Hi Guys, engine is still for sale. I've actually had it "sold" twice but first sale fell through due to buyer not actually having money and recently a buyer I'd stuck a deal with in December for pick-up in Jan decided to do something else (fair enough at least he told me!). so, engine is up for grabs. also, Greddy suction kit to suit nismo or standard AFMS (can also be adapted to Z32s easily enough) Nismo engine mounts random other parts - so please pm me if interested. I know have my Jun 2.7 engine running and driving it so i'm pretty motivated to sell this engine off. I also have a used (85,000odd kms) 1993 R32 GTR engine for sale. It's a complete engine like this one from head to sump. It's a late model R32 so has R33 spec crank and oil pump drive. It's in perfect health with 155-160psi compression across the board and was only removed as I fitted a new NUR motor to that car (my old silver R32 GTR - for sale thread should be on here somewhere). Asking price for this engine is $4,300 complete ready to drop in.

Hey Damo, yeah I don't check often. I should have some pics of the gold Saurus car as I have sat in it before and made car noises. lol. Took lots of pics but sadly never been for a drive in it. BUT I have been out in Hayashi-san's (owner of Saurus) 1200hp DAILY R34 GTR. yes those numbers are correct (well at least according to him!). When I get my old PC fired up again, I'll see what I can dig out for you.

thanks dunc. I did have a clue after all (yes it's happened to me). so basically you chose either loose points or pay an extra $1,000. but as you've found dundan there is only so many times they will accept you crying "we cannot ascertain who was driving at the time of the infringement" before they will come back with, well in that case you are not competent enough to register cars in the name of your company. I don't know anyone it's been enforced upon yet but I'd hate to get that 1 extra fine and become the first..... I have also been warned that the fine is/was going to increase for failing to nominate a driver but have not seen anything concrete.

cool. the blue looks nice mate. someone come and buy mine. otherwise I have to take marlin up on his offer which involved some un-speakable acts.... seriously someone save me!

failing that try Taleb Tyres in sydney (just down the road from tempe tyres funnily enough). They have sorted me out with R35 tyres long ago when it was an effort to even buy any in aus at all. prices are very competitive too. I buy tyres for all my cars there (and yes I currently own 7 cars so it adds up fast!).

nope that is not the case. in my experience in NSW it goes like this. car is registered to a company. car gets caught on speeding camera. fine gets sent to said company asking them to nominate a driver. if they cannot determine who was driving at the time of the offence then they just paid the fine. HOWEVER as far as I know it has now changed (either that or they have cracked down on companies who have done this a number of times) and now they send the company the fine and ask them to nominate a driver. if they cannot nominate a driver then the company (not the CEO or a director etc, the entity that is incorporated) has to pay the speeding fine AND a further penalty for failing to maintain proper records or failing to nominate a driver or whatever they call it and the fine is pretty hefty at over $1,000 (could even be $2K or $3K off the top of my head).

Am I the only one who thinks that it was pretty expensive at $80K? I guess one day it can be re-registered (although no longer in NSW right?) and will be worth $120K-$130K but you'd have to be very tight with what you spent repairing it to make a buck out of it.

well having personally used ceva I would advise to ummmm look elsewhere. my own personal experience is they DID NOT take pictures of the car (I did though) when it was received at their depot, there were other issues too but suffice to say that I would be seeking an alternate arrangement to transport any car of mine in the future. I had previously had plenty of people recommend them but after what I witnessed and what occurred in my case I will not be going back there. The stories told to me by a staff member at the depot certainly didn't fill me with confidence either.

looks awesome mate. who is doing the build for you? hope it goes as nicely as you hope it will.

unlimited boost means there is no pressure signal getting to the wastegate actuator. that means either split hose (can be sometimes hard to see), hose come off (should be easy to see) or the system is not hooked up correctly. you need to take another look at the boost control piping or get someone else who really knows how basic boost control works to check it for you.

personally I think it's not a bad list. the fuel reg is not really needed, but they are very handy as it provides extra port to add fuel pressure gauge sensor which is a very valuable diagnosis/tuning tool. up to you. yes there is a sard drop in pump kit for GTR and yes they are worth the extra money. they will support around 350kw atw on pump 98 fuel. otherwise a nismo or tomei pump is fine and basically the same kit, just buy whichever of the 3 options is cheaper. power FC is a fine computer but you'll neeed twin Z32 afms (GTRs run 2 of them regardless of single turbo or twin turbo). or run twin nismo afms if you want to keep some standard piping/airbox etc to your new single. you'll need the airflow potential of 2 afms anyway for your power aim. silicone engine hose kit (I assume you mean the heater and coolant hoses?). don't get one of the cheap ones. either get a samco kit (good quality) or just buy the hoses from nissan. most of your prices are pretty realistic too. I would ditch the D1 catch tank and ditch the N1 oil pump at this stage. instead buy a good oil cooler. you'll need it with all the extra power (heat) you will be making (unless you've bought the PWR radiator with built in oil cooler - I hope you did, they are great). Too much labour and parts cost to put a good oil pump and sump baffles/extension onto a stock engine. save that stuff for round 2 when you build a new engine. the mines cam cover baffles are a good idea though. your tuning budget may be a little light. I'd say more like $1200 to have it tuned nicely. enjoy.

agree on both points. yes it's not the end of the world, and yes flipping the AWD/2WD switch is fun. no it the ecu doesn't 'remove' power when you put the system into RWD. it just sends all the power the engine makes to the rear wheels. the reason you get a little less power when the car is in AWD is that there is a parasitic power loss in the transfer case, front shaft and front diff. it's not much though and certainly not 50kw on a car making 400kw. no it makes no difference. an AWD dyno dynamics dynamometer is basically 2 "2WD" units together. so you can run it in awd using both sets of rollers, and then simply run it in RWD using only the rear set (with the car in RWD mode). The dyno doesn't "know" what you're doing. it's exactly the same as "going around the corner to a RWD dyno". they operate exactly the same way. yeah that's more like it. very typical result for a GTR at that power level for AWD vs RWD. god if it were 50kw as some people claim imagine how fast the car would feel when you switched to 2WD mode! you'd suddenly be free of the 50kw drivetrain power loss and your car would be a rocket ship. that's the easiest way to tell. any GTR I've run on the road between AWD and RWD you can tell it accelerates (when rolling) a little better in RWD (providing you have traction at that power level), just enough that you can notice something, but not a huge difference. which again backs up the evidence that's it's a handful of kw's at most 'normal' power levels.

this post summed it up. the problem is this. PSI is just a pressure rating. it's a measure of restriction in the intake as such. it's not a measure of AIRFLOW. what does your standard ECU use to determine fuelling? AIRFLOW. a small turbo at 10psi will be flowing much less air than a larger turbo at 10psi. the boos pressure is not relevant. if they all flowed the same amount of air at any given psi then we'd all be running the smallest possible turbo and running it at 30psi. it's simply not the case. your problem now is your T04Z flows too much air even at 10psi for the standard ECU to handle. you need an aftermarket ecu. since you have an auto it limits your options a little bit, but speak to a workshop who has some experience tuning R34 GTTs with auto boxes. you will also need a fuel system that is capable of providing enough fuel for the amount of air this turbo can flow. my advice, stop driving the car, or at worst drive it slowly and carefully to a workshop and get it sorted out. it's going to need a decent tune to go with that new ecu anyway.