Beer Baron

cool. bit rough they don't allow the united E85 which has been sold at pumps in sydney for years now. still it's a start!

dude, bernie will live forever. didn't you see the episode of southpark where cartman and kyle get aids. it was discovered that if you put like $180K into a blender and then inject that you're cured. same goes for old age, just need more money. the bernster has plenty. I've heard he is actually already like 130 years old. and roy, very eloquently put. it's true. these dictatorships are the places were the dictators can easily burn massive coin on an F1 race without having to answer for it. it will be interesting to see how bernie feels about his recent expansion strategy if bahrain does have to be called off. korea went ahead practically at gun point. with i'm told bernie making massive threats if they did not pull it off and according to webbo they were still working on the facilities and track 48hrs before the race with the military having been drafted in to complete it (well complete is the wrong word, perhaps "get it to an acceptable point" would have been more accurate).

yeah it's quite possible it's the bearing in the top mount. they do wear out and yes they can knock. it could be the shock itself but my guess if the diagnosis was right. it should be replaceable but if not at worst you're up for a pair of new upper shock mounts (not a big expense).

could be worn bushes or possibly HICAS. even if the car only has 42,000kms (and in reality it could have 100,000ksm and have been well cared for) it's still going to be near 10 years old so many bushes will be due for replacement. only real way to find this problem is get it up on a hoist and checked out. could also be broken swaybar link or disconected swaybar (same result).

yeah I like the trust kit. if you don't want to go mega $$$. just get the trust 'hard pipe kit" which just replaced the intercooler piping, then buy a "suction kit" like the apexi one that does piping from pods to turbos. you'll still have the standard "twin turbo" pipe but that's about it. and no this set-up won't cause reversion. I've had it on numerous cars. the japanese kits are all well tested and designed.

good ideas mate. and good removal tool too. most commercial ones are shit and the little claws just break of bits of the pulley sides (as above pics show). yours looks great.

BINGO!. no need to take it somewhere to test. it's a 10min job to unbolt the cat. and most workshops would have a bolt in de-cat pipe around (if so even better as it means no exhaust spewing out the middle of the car in the dyno cell). then back on the dyno and see if there's any change.

fck. I didn't know H beams were bad? I better tell tomei to stop making conrods. their H beams have taken up to 200hp PER CYLINDER but I guess 1200hp is not much when you're after a 5 litre RB engine that can rev to 15,000rpm. would love to post more but want to get home to remove the tomei h beams from my engine before it blows. maybe I can replace them with some Chinese made I beams which are bound to be superior?

yeah studs is one area I would recommend genuine. seen lots of aftermarket ones break and the genuine ones seem to be stronger/last better.

where are you getting these %'s from? the stock gauge is not in percentages of boost. it's in mm/hg from memory and stock boost is around 10-12psi which equates to about .7 or so. you sure you're not reading something else off the MFD?

bingo! sadly it's the easiest way to do it. if you 'unrolled' say 2 apexi pods from the regular GTR kit you would see that they have a massive surface area combined and as such can filter very well whilst not offering much restriction in the intake. it's actually not that hard to create a good enclosure for them. you still have the same fresh air fee as you do to the stock airbox and any air from behind the headlight and just need to box 2 sides (the top and the engine side) to be effective. the inner guard creates the other 2 sides (you want those sides open anyway as that's where the cool air is coming from). the ARC airbox is just sucking air from in the engine bay anyway like pods do with it's big filter on top. yes it has another little filter on the front too but again same thing as pods and just as susceptible to heatsoak etc. the only difference really is some police may believe the arc box is more 'legal' over the pods, but if covered with a neat heat shield the pods are actually safer (more legal) as the arc filter element is exposed on the top of the box. go for pods with an air feed, and a shield around the box. it will be the best option for the big powers!

yeah it certainly is a mystery how he managed to make it that far when the other cars who stopped at the time he did had to pull in with 2 or 3 laps to go and he was at front running pace. like I said he must have the worlds biggest surge tank and fuel lines that circumnavigate the car about a dozen times before getting from tank to engine.

yeah supersprints are about fatz walking around in a pair of stubbies, drinking a pair of stubbies, shooting his mouth off. lol. and offering to drive anything with wheels on it as long as it doesn't belong to him! only difference is this year he'll be wearing his bloody fury hat since I finally gave it back to him.

yeah I agree with troy. those little problems were small but were enough to make me stick with my POV. it's easy to use and never fks up and runs for bloody ages on 1 set of AA bateries. when the radcam would lose power half way through a day the pov was running for a couple of days straight on one set of batteries and even then I only changed them for a new set as a precaution against losing footage like what happened with the radcam. the footage was great but when you loose your best nurburgring sessions and the best half of a day a spa francorchamps because the thing kept switching off without us realising then it's a pretty joyless excercise. the real sad part is we used the pov as the incar looking back at the driver/nav point of view and the radcam in the usual over the shoulder view (which of course gives the best footage) so we had heaps of great facial expression footage from the reliable pov but bugger all great driving footage (not that I any of my footage would have been 'great' anyway... lol).

agree 100%. there are a few workshops nearby that could probably inspect it on you behalf providing northshore are happy to take it there.

yes, that's my point. a single VG30 afm is not going to get you much (if any) gain over the stock TWIN Rb26 afms. sure twin VG30 meters will be able to measure heaps more air, but if you're going to do single VG30 may as well just keep twin RB26.

yeah stock nissan crank is the go and they are cheap brand new.

lol. I know you do!

clutch toasted. as long as you are not feeling anything weird when selecting gears etc, or noises when you free rev (with car in gear and foot off the clutch pedal) then it's 90% sure to be clutch. if your mate was revving the crap out of the car and had his foot still on the clutch pedal then he was overheating the clutch and has probably damaged it. at this point it doesn't matter too much as regardless of whether it's box or clutch the gearbox has to come out to diagnose/replace whichever is broken. I'm going to go with clutch though.

try nice products. they have a website. google will help in that respect. they are M12X1.25 from memory length standard is about 30mm. best to take one out and match it. here you go since I am feeling generous. http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogues/wheel/wheel.php

me too. well priced for what you get and the benefits they provide.

yep and he was comparing them to the RS which is another step below the RSR. the RS is just a road tyre with the RSR being the kind of 'cross over' high performance road/almost a semi slick type tyre. either way of the proper semi slicks out there the R888 is way down the list. yes on light cars around 1000kg they perform fairly well but we are talking TRACK (circuit) tyres for skylines (1300kg-1600kg) with anywhere from 250hp to 800hp. the 888s are just not suitable. I don't know of anyone having trouble with old stock from tyre rack. they are pretty reputable. but you're right, you need to watch out for people shifting 4 or 5 year old tyres as 'new' simply because they haven't been used yet.

I would try and buy a 4th wheel to complete the set. you'll get much better $ that way. people buying 3 wheels are always only going to want to pay the price of 2 as that is all they can use with 1 spare as a 'bonus'. complete the set then sell or enjoy them.

mate it's exactly the same here with the "well we build the best engines and our tuner is by far the best and you go anywhere else you are risking your engine" when the truth is sadly many of them are hopeless. nothing wrong with the basic h pattern carillos. they are a good rod. the mahle pistons are good too and from memory 2618 alloy so a bit stronger than the average 4032s around. crank is a tough call. new cranks are very reasonable prices and a good bit of insurance if there is any doubt over the straightness of the used crank. either way I wouldn't spend bags of money modding a stock crank. some basic stuff like good balancing and cross drilling etc is worth while but some people go nuts removing heaps of material and trying to knife edge etc. no worth it. tomei gasket kit will give you most of the bits you need and all the gear is good quality. either tomei or some bits are just gen nissan. otherwise I'd probably go the nissan kit which is pretty similar. builder in WA I can't help with but there are some good ones around aus that are only a courier away.....

lol, the smurf is an angry little leprechaun isn't he. he got into it with ambrose too that year in bathurst up the top of mountain straight.