Cubes

Oh yer... What a bunch of Girls!!! haha

Thats why you should all live near the beach. Awesome cool breeze.

hehe thats a big thanks... Maybe he's a member of SAU and the idea of having turds, rotting fish etc scared the crap out of him.

lol.. It will be nudging close to 300rwkw. Fingers crossed. Ash.. Did a comp test the other day as the motors now clocked 50k. Came up as it did when it was bran spankin new. Not a single variance between the cylinders.

Manta racing I believe don't have their own dyno. They send the cars over to 'I believe' Willall Racing. Personally I believe its an added liability having your car driven to and from a workshop for a tune. Please do correct me if I am wrong as I may very well be. But either way my vote goes to Shaun @ Boostworx. My loyalty has always been with Shaun and in return he looks after myself and doesn't charge the earth. He's a top bloke thats down to earth and not full of him self. Northern side of town. I would have to say Tilbrooks, BUT I would only have Tim Possingham (if he's still there) tune mine. They do charge quite a bit more; DO make sure you get a solid written quote and make it very clear they are to call before performing any work that will blow out the price. Both Tilbrooks and Boostworx have the Datalogit so there's no issues there. Another bloke that appears to be on the pulse is Graham West Performance Marion Road. They too have a datalogit.

There's a couple on ebay from Roguepi who is reputable. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/02-WRX-Short-Engine...8QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/99-WRX-Short-Engine...8QQcmdZViewItem Stumbled upon them. Not sure how well priced it is.

lol... I wrote that last post while wardriving past nightcrawlers place.

Spray it with WD40, RP7 etc. It will go back in easy without damaging the rubber.

I'm ~4weeks away from just under doubling the power its currently making.

I assume so.. Precision is what I remember he said. I can't find much on them via google.

Not a bad idea... slip a few smelly bits of fishing bait in to his vent inlets at the bottom of his windscreen.

The same as what I was told... The afm to turbo pipe, cross over pipe, the std bov and its pipework cannot be touched. FMIC is allowed providing there's no cutting of the body and it doesn't hang lower than 100mm.

The old man restored an L34 SLR5000 that he picked up from an old lady that had it sitting in her shed. 650 holley, nice lopey cam that would pulse through the floor pan and seat. Simply nothing like the awesome raw feel that thing had. Black bonnet, and 'Canary' (rings a bell) Yellow. So in some cases.. It does look good.

I had some one pm me not so long ago with a similar problem. The person borrowed shit to get through regency, the kind loaner then had BIG problems getting the parts back. Matt. I cracked the diff open.. the oil still looks new and there was very very little on the magnetic plug, just the soft sludge metal stuff no big shavings.

Walk in and abuse the ass... then walk out and say something that makes him think "WTF is he on about'.. like 'f**k U TERD MAN'. Then.... a week later.. Start dropping a turd in his letter box every so often. Any sort of turds.. Dog turds.. your turds, your mates turds any turd. You won't get him. I had a similar issue with a previous car that had 70 odd kays racked up on it and I got it back with a spongy burnt feeling clutch. There was nothing I could do.

lol. Lunatic.

Its just a comp guage with 5 little lines between the big numbers. I crank until it stops moving. Unsure on the brand have never taken notice. The old man bought it many years ago, he's not one to buy cheap, he always spends the little bit more to get the better one. The guage reads out both in bar and psi. I'm not concerned on the actual final number as it doesn't mean a lot, I'm just stoked how spot on each cylinder is. The old rb20 varied by 5psi when it had supposively done 67,000km's.

From what I understand the auto R33 diff is a 4.3 and the r33 manual diff a 4.1. The R32 Turbo's run the same diff ratio for both the auto and manual being a 4.3. Abobob, The reason for the r34 ratio being different may be due to the gearbox ratio's. The R32/R33 auto's run quite a long first gear. If they were to run a 4.11 ratio behind the auto they would be looking at almost 70km/h out of first.

PSI, I remember the pin size was different. Slightly larger. 22mm vs the RB30's 21mm. Nothing a set of forged rods can't sort though. So they won't just bolt in with the std rods.

S3_girl (Darren) is running Precision Hyperutetic pistons in his 370rwkw odd rb30 with std rods.

Scooby.. He's a dude on ct.com. Just did a comp test. Motors done 50,000km's. 158psi exactly through out. I did 2 tests on each cylinder. The tests only varied 1psi. I took the highest reading. So same as last time. Exactly the same across the board. The motors running 0.0040" bore to piston clearance with a set of rb25 wiseco's.

Sort of.

How did twinvl do his.. I forget.

There's one bloke here thats dropping his car in today and is being SLUGGED $4800 for a drive in drive out auto to manual conversion with an Rb20t gearbox. $1400 drive in drive out is well priced. All most too well when you consider the price of a new clutch, the box, centre console, pedal box, tail shaft, clutch master and slave. I would expect up around 2k to 2.5k.

Forgies or not.. It doesn't matter. What matters is what comp ratio the given piston returns. Cam timing, engine temp, piston/bore clearance and the gauge its self all vary the read out. Mine with was up over 150psi in all cylinders, all exactly the same apart from cyl 3 or was it 4!? that was only 1psi down. BUT the motor was stone cold. I'm just about to give it another comp test *with the same guage* after 50,000km's so it shall be interesting how it comes up.