Cubes

Not able to simply swap over the half shafts? or are the housing different?

Your on the list.

Because you left it for so long the crown wheel will be stuffed. Your only option is to shell out $300-$350 for a s/h R32 GTST diff from a wrecker. THEN you can shove the cusco or kaaz diff center in to that. There's an old saying.. Poor man pays twice. Do it properly the first time. Get a decent diff from a wrecker and go from there.

Auto box will be fine.. Get a tight shift kit in to her and she'll be fine.

Done.. Sorry buddy, not sure how I missed you. ------- PM me for bank details or if you wish to give me the $$ in person. If for some reason it falls through (unlikely) you'll receive a full refund obviously.

Definitely a load of bull. sky30 grabbed a 270,000km rb30e dropped an rb25 dohc head on it and drove it for a couple of years with 300rwkw. Then dropped it in his gts4 with a 26 head on it and drove it at 380rwkw for quite some time. My own.. 70,000km's there are countless others. Head over to ct.com to see the 300-400 thousand rb30 turbo's still trucking.

SAU members will be put before your mate with the S13 but yeah; otherwise there's no problems. Would be nice if he could sign up and put his name down.

I really couldn't say. You do get 2 power runs so I really can't say yay or nay. Give Shaun a buzz. I organized the dyno day through Troymeister.

Hey ppls, Unsure how this thread ended up closed; maybe I clicked something without realizing. This dyno day is still up and running. I'll look at getting peoples to start laying some $$ down to secure the day. If we don't get the required minimum the day won't go ahead. Which is unlikely given the interest shown. We need a minimum of 10 people to pay in full ($30), those that pay first get to choose when they want to run. Those that don't pay upfront don't get to choose and their spot may not be secured if there are too many cars on the day. Its cooler in the morning.

OK you bunch of girls. No gas bagging in this thread; keep the thread clean. Any inquiries, shoot a PM off to the seller.

I estimate I save around a 50-60 per week. The calculator appears to be fairly close, for myself at least. But getting randoms sitting next to you that absolutely stink because they are too lazy to have a damn shower and brush their teeth in the morning and use dioderant pisses me off. Nothing worse than sitting next to some one with bad breathe and the bus driver doesn't turn the a/c on and you can't open the windows. I get on the bus at an early stop so straight to the back seat. More comfortable and no randoms sit close next to you. + I can hear the sweet whistle of the turbo. lol Kralster, public transport is a little like broadband. If you can't get it in the area you live in there's little point winging and bitching about it just move. And all thanks to privatization. Probably a bad analogy but who cares. No doubt if I rode a bike public transport wouldn't appear so attractive. But I don't and the other half wont let me so yeah.. Public transport it is.

Bus costs me $26 per week vs $20 for petrol and parking per day not to mention tyres, servicing and maint. For the majority public transport works out way cheaper. I prefer busing it; I get home in roughly the same time and its an easy relaxing cruise home. Driving in traffic frustrates me due to all the morons on the road.

I wouldn't hessitate running 9:1. Since I've dropped the larger (gt30 .8) turbo on the amount of ignition timing it can take is quite surprising. Interestingly it takes quite a bit more than a blokes stock rb30 n/a bottom end (8.2:1) with stock rb25 head running a gt35 turbo with slightly more boost. Unsure why his was running so little timing compared to mine. Mine with less boost and running more ignition makes the same power. Possibly the bit of head work I've had done? Im not sure. The wiseco pistons require a bit of stuffing around + it messes with the squish/quench. So not optimal, but mine have worked fine.

If I were to do it again I'd run with the CP pistons. The wiseco's are not optimal either.

I'm running the RB25det wiseco's in mine, comps up around 9:1 from my calcs. So far all is good 70,000km's on the motor, still perfect compression in all 6; no drop in compression since it has been rebuilt so the std ring pack appears to hold in quite well.

Who's tuning the car?

Yeah that was the case for mine and Salads. Premo's being a single piece, different story.

Scarface, Cooler isn't always better. I believe SK stated a while back the RB's make the most power around 85degree's. Best fuel economy is also achieved around the same 85degree's. If you are running the stock ecu it will most definitely be pushing additional fuel in to the car when its running temp is under 80degree's. Which isn't a good thing. :S Aftermarket ecu and tuned to suit the cooler running temp if you run a nismo cooler thermostat.

Premo, When I spoke to Adelaide Tailshafts he said with the single piece fit the gearbox and measure from the output shaft to the diff flange. Thats your safest bet.

I've attached a pic of the rb25det gearbox sitting in the car and the rb20 tailshaft up against the dust shield. As you can see the 20t tailshaft sits slightly inside the box; by the time you remove/cleanup/chop off the old weld and reweld the new yoke on the dust shield lines up perfectly with the rb25 yoke. Don't take off any more than you have to otherwise the yokes dust shield section will hang outside of the gearbox dust shield.

Sorry I didn't reply to your pm SirRacer; I was meaning to grab some pics today but didn't get around to it. The RB25 and 20's have a water line that runs from the drivers side of the block around the back of the head then in to the turbo. The line delivers its cool water to the turbo directly from the thermostat housing. I've had a quick look in the engine manual and its hard to see how the rb26 is setup. :S Need pics ppls. I've attached a pic of a 26 head. The arrow points to where the rb20 and 25 water return secures.

Spray WD in there and hope it helps the rubber seal to slide a little, then lever it out via the existing slot. When its in correctly (180) its a fairly tight fit as the seal grabs if you don't use vaso or gearbox oil on it.

Simply have the yokes swapped and tail shaft balanced. Take as little off it as possible. Remove ~12-15mm removing the old yoke and weld. Mine and Salads was done this way fits fine. Balance and yoke swap is around $160. Get a couple done at the same time and its cheaper.

Its ALIVE!!! So hows it drive? Keen to check out how it sounds in person. Has quite a nice roar!!

AVCR's are fairly good BUT you need some one with a dyno and knows how to set them up correctly. Shaun appears to be a wizz with the avcr and pfc ebc kit.