gotRICE?

They do come factory It was just a 40th Anniversary option. lol. Andd seeing as the GTR spoiler was also a factory option for the GTS, it doesnt count in the " GTR wing on a GTS is lame" category

I dunno, i think the R33 looks pretty swish sitting side by side with its brothers. But i guess thats GTR's hehe. I tend to agree with what most people are saying. And personally i think most GTS/GT Skylines look pretty average out of the box. They just need a touch of love and they come up looking pretty sharp IMO.

Lol seems like my "pouring down the toilet" post got deleted. The only reason i said that is because all sewerage in the City i lived in is processed in a treatment plant before going anywhere near the ocean. The water outlet from it is cleaner than the water its being dumped into. So really its not a bad option. And im pretty sure a treatment plant is well equipped to handle anything that could possibly be flushed down a toilet. They would have had it all and some.

lol. you'd have to try pretty hard to get rain water in there. What we are saying, is put it on, leave the bonnet up, start the car, and go look and listen to it. If its leaking it will probly be hissing away, and if you still have AFM's the idle might be a little dodgy.

Yeah i agree. Im pretty confident the car isnt going to blow up if it isnt sealed. So just do it, and listen to it/look at it. Wont be hard to tell.

LOL! Too true. When my dad was my age he said that the rubbish car parts actually came from Japan. They had an absolutely shithouse name for automotive parts.... things can change So i dont see why China cant have stepped up their game too. Im all for giving them a chance. Hey, if it fails, its my problem. And so far i have done just fine . But im picky as to what i actually buy chinese, so i guess i sit on the fence hahah

Did you start this thread after posting in the walbro fuel pump thread? As you pretty much said the same thing in that thread.

Ahh, nah i dont agree with that. You only think plastic tanks suck because after 10-20 years one of them sprung a leak. In saying that, i didnt replace my OEM with another OEM. The full alloy chinese ones these days are pretty dam good quality compared to what they used to be.

Nope.

Just pull it out completely and toss it out

You can actually buy kits, and for the one that replaces the hardline at the back of the head, that end has a push on fitting from what i can see/found when i looked. I spose it just depends how far you want to go.

yeah i know hes in AUS So am i lol. But im a nice guy and would have sent it anyway And too true.. Bolts generally end up permanent for me too. I had a wine cork blocking my BOV return for over a year

Yeah i read that too. You dont need to bypass the valve, just turn the output off and it will be open Saves alot of hassle changing lines around lol. What spring do you have in the wastegate now? If its a light one, maybe the mac valve cant keep up as it has to work too hard to bring the boost up? Running out of duty cycle or something?

The fuse thing could be the fix. Maybe after X years they get brittle. I put a USB charger in my ciggy lighter, and when u plugged a USB cable into it the fuse blew. Thinking it was a broken item to start with, but tested it again with a brand new fuse, and its been fine ever since. So it is possible that maybe the fuses are causing a bit of resistance?

Cut the hose and jam a bolt in there. Temp fix. Its a shame im not in NZ, i have a plug that replaces the valve itself sitting in the center console of my R33 i dont use anymore. Id have sent it to you otherwise. Just go into a metal shop with the rubber seal and ask them to make a bung to fit it.

Theres quite a big thread dedicated to this. But it seems the most ideal turbo is the GT3076R, or the GTX3076R. Depending on your preferences, the .82 or .63 exhaust housing. If it was me doing it again, id go external gate. And with that money to spend, and seeing as you have a FF plenum, go twin scroll high mount

Personally i think off the compressor housing, or a nipple post intercooler is the most ideal place to take your wastegate source from. I think if 28 or so psi is your target, then getting a combination of springs to get you as close as possible, then use the boost control to get you the extra few psi would be the best way to go. I dont know 100% if its true, but a friend of mine that tunes cars and does lots of Link installs etc mentioned that the mac valves dont like vac too much. This isnt my opinion, as i dont know so corrections welcome! Another thing, are you 100% sure your boost control is turned on/ working/ on the correct output? If you turn your ignition on (without starting) go into your Auxiliary outputs, click the output you have boost control set to, (Aux8 for me) and change the "Function" to "TEST PWM". If its all good, the solenoid will buzz like crazy.

Yeah that al depends on the type of Tein coilover. When i got mine from Japan 2nd hand, i didnt touch them and just threw them straight in the car. lol. Turned out perfect for what i wanted. The only way to get it perfect for you, is as was said, play around. I have Type HA, this was where they were set: And this is how it looks. So a very broad assumption, is wind em down an inch lower than mine are set and go from there lol. FYI, 330mm from center of wheel to lip of guards, F+R.

95 Pages. Get reading http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

Your actually right. I did misread some of your points. Perks of forum browsing on a phone perhaps. I still dont see the difficulty in installation. If your going for full electronic boost control, chances are you have an aftermarket ECU that does it anyway. So for the boost control to fail, the ECU itself would have to be failing wouldnt it? And if you have an aftermaket ECU, the stock solenoid is no longer required, therefore, you have a signal and an earth wire already run to the ECU free, all you need to do is turn the output on. I totally agree with your point on setting up closed loop. I have no idea why anyone would even try set it up taking a line from a plenum. Stock is best IMO. Maybe i totally ignored threads with anything about taking a EBC/boost tap feed from the plenum because its not how i do it. But i dont recall seeing much, and i hope people were put right. The only boost related item that should be plumbed into the plenum is a boost gauge. Not saying it wont work elsewhere, but it wont read vac lol. Maybe one day if you get a chance you should have a go with an EBC (preferably an ECU controlled one). They are a pretty decent item. I had alot of fun setting up mine. RPM/Load based etc. Brings on full boost in my R33 with GT30 by 3400rpm. I have logs of 17psi by 3200rpm too, this being 5th gear.. so kinda irrelevant as how often do you really do that For me, any partial throttle just cruising, i want my wastegate shut tighter than a nuns honey pot. Any airflow the GT30 can give me at lower rpm the better. Or its just a pig to drive around town. Id wonder how a wastegate would be open at all with such low (no) pressure against it anyway. The actuator spring should be tight enough to keep it shut untill, if not just before the spring rating. I use my solenoid to my advantage. As just before desired boost is reached, the wastegate starts to crack. Loosing boost. So i have the solenoid not allowing this. I guess thats a downside to an internal gate. In the end, im always happy to be proven wrong. I like to learn, and make my setup the best it is capable of. (+ID1000, external gate and E85 would be nice... but hey, cant win em all!)

Why did you re-post the exact thread again? lol

The PVC is connected to the Plenum, around about where your cut and shut throttle body is. So if you want to connect it as stock, your going to need to tap a nipple into the plenum. As it works under vac conditions.

I cant say i have ever met anyone that takes a EBC boost feed of the plenum. What exactly do you mean by an EBC failing can totally destroy an engine? My EBC is an electro magnetic solenoid, as i thought most of them were. . If it fails, its open. Therefore only wastegate boost will be reached. Easy to install. On vac line from the intercooler piping, one from the actuator. One ground wire, and one signal wire. Hardly rocket science. An EBC doesnt "slam shut" a wastegate anyway. They are always shut. The EBC just doesnt let it open untill the desired boost is reached. Exactly the same principle as a manual boost Tee. I dont see what the issue is . Sounds to me like you have had an issue before so totally rubbish every other EBC on the market because of it.

looking at the photo you posted, the best place for you to put it is in that hose with the big white cable tie on it. But i wouldnt recommend doing it unless you have some sort of aftermarket ECU. If not, leaving it stock, or putting in a 10psi R32 actuator will give you better results. The fact that the boost solenoid is missing in your car would suggest that possibly you already have and R32 actuator. Unless some bleed valve is hidden away somewhere we cant see.

As far as i can tell from using the odd silicone hose here and there is that they are fine. The only ones i didnt like was the vac hoses. They seemed to go all wierd and powdery on the outside so just went back to good old black hose.