gotRICE?

I cant confirm, the only three i have seen with them are 98 R33's. And unless you have one, i havent ever heard of anyone talking about one on a 97. You can also use an S14 one. I replaed mine with an S14 part unknowingly. The part number was the same, but annoyingly enough because its an s14 part, the plug is back to front. (as in the part you squeeze to unplug it is against the timing cover)

Your welcome. If you get one, just double check every single wire and that it goes to its corresponding pin on the other end of the harness. I have heard of the odd one being put together wrong and causing headaches. Although that was those green Hondata harnesses when they first came out.. still, good idea to check.

Apexi do an extension harness that sits between the ECU and the loom. If you really dont want to splice the factory loom then i think this is the best way that i know of. http://www.ebay.com/itm/APEXI-ECU-EXTENSION-HARNESS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R20-R25-R26-/280749102523 wish id seen them before i wired in my G4, but then again, once you go aftermarket ECU chances are you will never go back to factory anyway.

you can use the CAS from an SR20 too. As far as im aware, you need to de-pin the plug and swap two wires around. I had to on mine when mine went. Have a quick look on google, or on here somewhere i cant remember where i found the info. I have and SR20 one on mine. The only annoying thing is that the moulding from the plug is reversed. So the bit you squeeze to unplug it is against the timing belt cover. Not that you take it off much, but it makes it hard to get off by hand haha.

Mine back in NZ. Got on it a little early out of the corner. Heh. R33, GT30 @ 17wigglewigglepsi. lol

Im another for the blocked radiator. Everything you describe is pointing at it blatantly. Mine had a single core NA radiator in it, and did allright with 300kw on the track (two hot laps is all it would give me) and i saw 107 at the hottest. Temp gauge still sitting on half. Threw in a big aluminium bugger and never looked back. So cheap and so easy.

Its a pretty old post, but i did the same thing a while back on mine. Melted the 02 on the dump pipe. It blew a fuse obviously and killed the whole car (travelling @ 100km/h down the freeway). Changed the fuse and all was well. But over the next year, things started crapping out. I have a feeling the short melted something somewhere, and things werent getting adequate current. 1st the fuel pump (re wired onto the 4WS 12v), then my boost controller (re-wired off the AFM 12v.. using MAP so it was spare) and now, my Idle control isnt getting enough current. I am assuming all these things were feeding off the same circuit. I asked about backfeeding the circuit, but it wasnt adviseable lol. So just took feeds from elsewhere. So before going and ripping out the fuel pump, just throw a multimeter over it. I found that unless my walbro had EXACTLY 12v, it would not kick into life. The feed was only supplying a fraction over 11v. Same with the boost controller. Never knew they were that picky. heh

Im on the S2 aswell. Cant say i have ever had that issue before.

Juice Defender, in its simplest forms, turns off mobile data when the phone is locked. And re-connects it every 15 mins (or as you set it) to sync emails, IM's etc etc. It saves a hell of a lot of battery life if you dont need to receive emails or messages immediately. If you get the uber version, it can learn where your WiFi locations are and automatically connect to them when your in the vicinity, and auto disconnect when you leave. Based on course mobile site locations. Its pretty dam good, Have used it for a year or so now.

Id be leaning towards RnR from that description. The BOV setup wont be the cause.

So then id say that the restrictive muffler had everything to do with the pinging if your car was tuned to a more free flowing item possibly. Not coolant temps? No performance loss whatsoever running into the 90's. I only had my tune dialled back when it went over 99 degrees. Boost limited to 1bar. I pushed it up to a peak of 107. heh. Was getting frustrated with only getting in 2 hot laps before it was cutting. Then found out that i only had a single core non turbo radiator dealing with 290rwkw Cant say i looked at it that closely till then lol!

If thats the case i dont think the temperature is your problem. The stock thermostat isnt fully open till 85 odd degrees anyway. Mine sits around 85-88. Even into the 90's isnt a problem.

Couldnt you just listen to it? When the cars at normal operating temperature, open the bonnet and rev the car up slowly. When it reaches 1500rpm (or whenever it activates) there will be an audible click. Or put your hand on the solenoid while you do it and you will feel it for sure.

Its probly pure coincidence that its happened just after you washed the engine bay. I wash mine all the time, have done all of my cars and never once had a problem. But you should always be sensible where you point the hose. Im with above. Either that or your fuel pump has died/dying.

lol yeah i was gonna say.. it has a big nut in the middle of it, put the sandwich plate on where you want it then tighten the nut same principle as every other sandwich plate on the market! I didnt get a thermostat for my setup (Mocal) as i'd heard they can give problems (and i was tight and it cost alot more: P) Always wanted to swap mine out for the Greddy one though for the gauge fittings. But as it stands, even in cold ol' NZ i havnt had any issues with overcooling without the thermo. I guess it depends on how big your core is. Plus the stock oil warmer/cooler is still there so i guess that helps keep the temps fairly regulated. Do it! And post pics of your setup when its finished

Well there you go. Another GTRS bending flanges. That pic that you posted was a pretty spectacular effort! Get a GT30

5psi at 3200? i get 1bar before that with a GT30! I would have expected that closer to 2000rpm with a stock turbo lol.

Im with Nismoid. Pull the timing, maybe add a little fuel and try again. Having the timing a couple of degrees in the wrong direction had my stock manifold flange glowing after a 15m cruise down the motorway. ( a little too much Rum the previous night then early morning tuning overlook ). The only reason i noticed it was i was checking for coolant leaks after a radiator swap, and could see the orange glow in the dark. 1st thing i did was post up my timing map and i got an answer within a few mins that my timing was out. Easy fix. So with the extended WOT of the track, and lots of boost, it doesnt surprise me its getting that hot. And as Zebra said, 10-15kw on the track wont be overly noticeable, especially when your causing this much damage to your bolt ons. I Personally have a Track Tune with a couple % extra fuel, and 1.5 degrees timing taken out from 3000rpm and above. I also tend to run wategate boost when im feeling nice as i dont feel like replacing the engine.

Wouldnt it just be the ratios making it feel so different? Auto cars to me always feel like they have a bucketload more torque down low to their manual counterparts.

You could also get the Link G4 for GTT. Id say far cheaper option than the Vipec. Same deal installation as Vipec (as it is the same ECU pretty much )

Not worth the hassle. Been there and done that. Complete waste of time and money. Save up for a proper ECU.

I have a Mocal kit similar to that. But i pieced it together myself (also minus the thermostat) Good quality stuff! Never had an issue with it or any leaks.

Not really needed unless you track your car alot. Temp drops will vary with core sizes and locations.

Untill you pull the dump pipes off to check the wheels are still there you havnt checked everything Go now.

Oh well. It doesnt have GTR logos on it. Just blank caps. Each to their own.