gotRICE?

I still reckon they look pretty good if done nicely! Obviosuly biased as it was all my efforts.. lol. Few things id have liked to fix.. like that indicator.. heh. Tribute video a friend made of mine before selling up

Im under the impression its from rear to front too. Based on the turbo water return. The turbo water feed is straight off the block FYI.

Garrett etc recommend the core be mounted so the water lines are at 20 odd degrees from memory for this exact reason, and youl notice that the stock water line runs uphill the whole way back to the intake manifold

Im gonna put my hand up and say it wont fit on the stock manifold. I always though a GT30 didnt fit. Its pretty tight in a 33 with a 10mm spacer. I could be completely wrong though. Only way to know is to try!

Much better idea than i have. I just have a printed piece of paper folded up in there lol.

Wierd. Id say, look at the factory wiring, and match up all the colours. Not much else you can do bar run a multimeter over everything as you test it. I dare say they wouldnt have removed anything to do it, just cut certain wires etc. Could also be as simple as making sure you have dual filament bulbs. Id start there.

Its the water return line. Many moons ago when i had that dump pipe mine touched too, just bend it out the way. Not much else you can do

27YO Male, 1998 R33 GTS25t with all modificatons declared, including larger turbo, wheels and adjustable suspension, Full cover. $780 P/A. Shop around. Best idea is to use a broker. I use Crombie Lockwood.

^^ RB's arent 8 Cylinders. Duh!

Another dont touch anything. 17psi all day and night on mine for over two years. Track days included.

Seems horrifically lean for all of the above. Bar closed throttle. Try re calibrate. I am assuming its a turbo R33 mind you.

Yeah those rotors are on the wrong side hehe i just did mine today. Whoops!

Fast + Reliable = Not Cheap Fast + Cheap = Not Reliable Cheap + Reliable = Not Fast lol I always thought that people blow rotaries because of modding without a tune? Because they are MAP based arent they? So adding free flowing exahausts, intakes, intercoolers etc and not compensating for the extra airflow = lean. Bang?

Turbo is actually easier than it looks to come out. Best advice I can give you is unbolt the dump pipe at the cat and lift it it with the turbo. Makes the job so much quicker lol.

Hey mate. Didnt read through the whole thread so sorry if its been answered. My R33 has that too. When i bought it, it just had a blanking rubber thing off it. Mine is a 1998 Model, and have only seen them on these so far too. Seems like it was just some random extra nipple added for some unkown reason. I ripped off the blank and use it for my boost gauge feed too. So your all good, nothing has been left off If you look closely, you'll see it there with the hose running off to the Apexi sensor on the fusebox.

Something like this is probly what you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GReddy-Type-R-S-RS-RZ-1-5-Clamp-On-BOV-Adapter-/190889587413

I would if i could! But im in Perth and my R33 is in NZ lol. This one here, they have used the chassy rails for the stands. Its not a big deal to use them, but i would put some wood/rubber on there. http://www.trak-life.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/DIY-Oil-Change-03.jpg The crossmember is that black piece of metal with the circle holes in it running under the motor. I use that alot for axle stands. For the rear its similar. You can put stands under the subframe. Where the arms etc bolt in. No need to be sorry, its good your asking first. But hard to do after the car topples on you Hopefully someone can shed some light and post up better photos. Tricky to find exactly what you want on google sometimes.

The diff housing wont crack dont worry. Just jack it from the jacking points, or the tow hooks. Use a bit of wood or rubber if your using a trolley on the jacking points. Will save them. Axle stands, chuck them under the front crossmember. And the rear axles. Keeping in mind that you MAY have to lower the rear of the motor down to slide the box out and clear the transmission tunnel as you slide it back. Might have to change things around as you go.

Ugh makes me wish mine was highmount! They just look wonderful dont they? lol. Loving the black on white theme.

Blitz is not too low. The only time i have seen them too low is people buying second hand with no brackets, or using the wrong supplied bracket. As they come with 33 and 34 mounts. This is a pretty low angle shot of mine. Cant see the hot pipe underneath. It tucks up inside the bumper nicely. Try ignore the broken passengers indicator It came loose and i run it over. lol. had to make do temporarily.

Im not sure heatsoak is your issue. Id say its the sensor. Mine is mounted by the throttle body in my R33, so its sitting ontop of the engine and i never see anything near temps like that bar idling for long periods of time. And even then, bringing the revs up even in neutral will drop the temps by 30 degrees in a few seconds.

Seeing as your going Thermo fans, could you use the A/C overheat feed? But Im only assuming that has an IGN 12v source.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19402&cat=339&page=1

Cant go wrong with the Blitz. Fabulous quality and fitment. And good prices from JustJap if i recall.

x2! Cheers for the info!