gotRICE?

There isnt a power increase. Its torque. The 96spec to 98spec Integra Type R had a torque increase by changing the exhaust cam to one slightly bigger. Zero killerwasps increase but it gave a slight torque increase. Maybe its something like that. Or maybe its complete bullshit too.

just put the pcv valve back to stock. Problem solved.

Did they plug straight in? or did you have to wire up new plugs? Nismo plug straight in. But it does sound like youve been duped unfortunately.

Mine did that too. I did the cambelt (tensioners, idler waterpump etc) and it went away. Pretty common noise. Im pretty sure the idler is the culprit.

LOL! ^^ Totally agree. No reason to get rid of it unless its a serious track car. You rarely ever panic brake on the track either. And panic braking is where you need it. But im sure in a sec there will be a whole lot of Non ABS users saying they have superior foot control and can make their cars brake to maximum limit without skidding therefore its better than ABS. But the next time a kid/car pulls/walks out infront of you @ 100KM/H and you have 0 time to think, let us know the result. hehe

Those stock solenoids in the WRX are a pretty common issue too. Can go either way. My mates one failed on the track. He saw 28psi before he realized and backed off. Im leaning towards the stock solenoid in this GTR too. See of anyone has one thats been removed they would let you try out?

I dont see why not. The less holes the better i say. This looks kinda like what your after? Cred to photo owner..

You can get the starter motor out from under the car.

Would you like to buy some punctuation? lol Is it the same series RB26? As in, R32 into R32, or R33 into R33? Maybe they were slightly different. Could always try clamp them down or find a reducer. Shouldnt be hard to get something made up in a shop. Or go to bunnings and by a steel funnel. Chop the end off and theres your reducer

People here are EXTREMELY helpful. They just get over the same threads being started countless times, asking the same questions over and over again, when this thread has been covered 2000 times since the site started.. To answer you, cheapest way, block the BOV off. Expensive way, buy a new BOV and tighten it up so it doesnt open under lower boost shifts. Turbo damage debatable. With the stock, ECU, the drive ability will suffer. Cue R31Nismoid's pre written Thread lock post soon?

Check the voltage at the pump. I had an issue with my walbro (well it wasnt the walbro actually, read on), did what you did. Pulled it out, tested it on the bench, worked fine. ECU was switching it on in the runtime values, but the pump wasnt firing. Ended up being that the pump was only receiving 11v for some still unknown reason. Wanted exactly 12v, or more. No idea why. And if youv ever tried to track down a voltage leak, you will know not to bother and just re-wire. So thats what i did, off the unused 4wd 12v lol. The other problem however, some good advice! Nothing more to add.

Some people just run a split dump off the stock turbo. I guess it works fine, but IMHO it sounds retarted when a wastegate flys open at 2500rpm. hehe.

As to above, this was tested with a brand new OEM thermostat, and also with the thermostat removed. Same result with all three tests. Think he might have it under control now mind you. Havnt seen/heard anything since i moved to Perth.

Depends on just how rich though. I had mine detonate to buggery when the O2 sensor on the dyno was faulty. Was reading almost 2AFR out. Detonation when running rich looks scary from the exhaust end. Figured this out when we maxxed out 555cc Nismo injectors on an RB25 running 17psi with a GT30. lol.

A growl tube! I literally just ROFLD! I have never heard this term before! But in saying that.. im not 100% sure how good it would sound on a turbo car. Turbo spool sounds fantastic, but with a big turbo making decentish boost, the air being sucked in turns more into a screaming monstrosity rather than that epic NA DOOOOORT lol. It would probly make you go deaf. Its pretty insanely noisy standing near the pod filter on my RB25 with GT30.

This should be good.

There havnt been too many bad reports as of yet as far as i can tell. People have bought batches of Splitfires that have shit themselves after one dyno session too. Theres always that chance isnt there.

I think you will need the PCV connected. As at idle i dont think it will pull enough pressure/vapour out of the head. You could just get one of those little tiny catch cans and run a seperate one for the PCV. Problem solved then I had the same setup as you mentioned, and i got blowby at idle with the PCV blocked. So put it back in and problem was solved.

OEM: I know a pulley is missing, but i hadnt touched the belt itself when this shot was taken. Just more fuel for the fire that something is off.

Id say the alternator is dead. You can drive a car just fine without a battery once its started. Has happened to me before too. Exactly as you described. The further i drove the more and more things stopped working. Right down to indicators.

That sounds like RnR to me. Cold weather, possibly running a touch more boost and maxxing out your AFM.

It does seem a little cheap considering the mods and KM. But then again, sometimes it just takes one person to sell it cheap and others follow. Could be a good buy. Best bet, go see it! Impossible to really tell from photos that to me look like have been instagrammed to death.

52mm one in mine as pictured, same as the 1st link in the OP. Fits perfect with the stock shroud. Just need to find some bolts for the shroud as the stock ones are selt tapper type screws. (Hint, H22a Prelude cam cover bolts fit perfectly and suit it well ) Only mod you need to do is trim a 10mm snip into the bottom of the shroud so it clears a bolt on the AC (or power steering) cant remember. Once that 10mm is trimmed out, it drops straight in.

A possible spun being, so rebuild? LOL! Wouldnt you at least try other things first? hehe. I thought mine had spun a bearing at one stage too, i got crazy yuck sounds when it was cold, turned out to be the idler pulley.

I didnt think it mattered if they were unplugged. It should idle perfectly with them unplugged. My R33 did.