gotRICE?

man that goes without saying. If you drain it with the heater on hot it will drain regardless as the pipes enter lower than the core.

If you want to do it properly there is a lengthly process... Drain the radiator as per normal, and theres a bolt on the block around the turbo area you can undo to drain the block too. Some pull the thermostat out and stick a hose in there to flush all the old coolant out too. Then put your new coolant in and top up with water.. bleed the system as per normal. Oh and Re. the overflow, generally i only put water in mine and watch it slowly change colour to the coolant colour as it mixes. That way i know my radiator cap is working

My comparison was between two RB25s if you didnt notice. And i would have thought also that an extra 5psi on a smaller engine, with less compression would make even less difference would it not?

^ This is true. For me i like the fact that the fitting is guaranteed. In my case buying a JJR stealth before the world economy fail was going to end up very close to what the blitz cost being a sheep shagger and having to pay outrageous Australian shipping. It was CHEAPER to have the blitz shipped from Japan than it was the Stealth from Australia! Wierd. You could say the same about most exhausts too. Muffler design cannon wise is pretty similar. And how much can a 3 inch straight pipe really change? But i bet theres alot of members here rocking HKS/Trust/Kakimoto etc exhausts saying "buy the cheap FMIC its the same"... know what i mean?

These Nissan turbos are scary! One more note on the comment about the power difference between 14 and 16psi.. I had my R33 Dyno'd on saturday for AFR purposes, and there was also an R32 with RB25 there. For all intensive purposes, the modifications bolt on wise are the same, FMIC, Turbo back exhaust etc etc, only difference is my stuff is bling (Blitz, HKS etc) and his is China. Oh and he had a pod, and im using the Airbox. Both running stock RB25 turbos. (IGNORE the peak as its an NZ dyno and ours seem to read higher, but for the purpose of the topic its relavant as the two cars were run 1 after another) His car made 216RWKW @ 14psi and a mild tune with a Link ECU. Mine made 211RWKW @ 10psi with Stock ECU. My AFR's were off the chart :s Stock ECU fail! 5kw , Extra 4psi and a tune? Seems like the turbos working a shitload harder for sweet FA gain? The only good thing about his was the tune made the car pull like a schoolboy in the midrange. It was incredible compared to mine. But top end from 4500ish RPM and over it was exactly the same. Alot to read But something to consider. The turbos are small, and have to work exrtemely hard to make 12psi+ boost.

Wouldnt it be better to buy a trickle charger? Wire it up so you have the input plug somewhere where you can unplug it and not need to remove wiring etc or leave the boot open and just plug it in? They just keep the battery ticking over as they slowly drain with the alarms etc. But dont over charge them. Seems like a lot better way of doing it. You can even buy them with solar panels so you could just leave it on the parcel shelf, or if the cars inside, on a window sill. Friends of mine use them on their race cars and motorbikes. Works a treat.

I think its an oil baffle. When you take the cover off the Turbo engine, under the hump is just a random brass coloured thing. Doesnt appear to do anything but "baffle" or something.

Blitz LM if you want to spend the coin. No cutting of the chassy, straight fit, stock IC pipe route. No fuss no muss. Love mine.

you dont need to bypass it, just take it out all together. put a blank over the nipple (hehe) on the intake pipe, and plumb the actuator straight to the Intercooler pipe.

Straight fit. Did it on my R33, ditched the stock boost solenoid all together. 10psi @ 2800ishRPM, steady till redline. Good cheap investment.

Would you mind digging out a pic?

look on ebay. $199 is a little pricey IMO too as they are all pretty much identical. I got mine for $100NZD, so about $80odd AU. (trademe)

Yup yup. Leave the computer where it is and just remove the globe. The track (just got home) was amazing. I wish id put the lock bar in sooner. Coming out of corners a bit quick and having the ass step out is so much more controllable! I was just stomping on it in 3rd and "power sliding" haha. With the Hicas i was getting thrown all over the place. I got a couple of vids of some minor skids ill link when theyre uploaded. But the best ones were at the end of the track that there was nowhere to video from So, go DO IT DO IT!!

so far i havnt even noticed a difference in the steering with the lockbar. No noticeable change in heavyness at low speeds etc etc so couldnt comment. Im taking it to the track on tuesday. 1st trackday without it so ill let you know if it was much different to with it in. Daily driving tho.. hasnt seemed to effect much

You talking about the frommit that exits kinda in the guard? And its a real pain in the ass to get to from both sides? I did the same thing and poked a hole in if for wiring. its a bastard of a thing to get back in. I cant even remember if i did or not :s will find out in the enxt downpour i guess hehe. Glad you found it tho! My old ITR had a leak in the boot that took me weeks to find. Ended up it was a crack in the seam sealer... dont even ask how i found that..

Dont listen to him It is a simple job and if your on a hoist will take about 40-50 mins max. And i even had to drop the rear muffler to get at one side. Use the guide on SAU and its a piece of piss. Even easier if you have a mate helping.

Im still interested in the covers if you'd ship em to NZ DOnt mind paying $50 odd NZD + shipping..

Do you want Hicas? Cheap fix it to pull it out and jam in one of the lockbars on the forum here. Works a treat!

They dont bolt straight up. A quick search and i saw its around a 2k job if you dont know how to do it yourself. Guards Bonnet Bumper Headlights Radiator support... it goes on.

I was going to say the same thing. An Evo 9 in stock form would easily overcome a stock R33 GTR on the track, and would keep up easily with an R34. Cant knock em. They are quick, and the same era STi's are ever so slightly quicker than the Evo! But back on topic... Not really a fan of the way it sounds in the above video

If you dont sell the cam covers im interested if you want to ship em to NZ And if not (understandable) how do you pull out the breathers??

"D" indicates a double overhead cam as opposed to a single overhead cam "E" indicates the engine is electronically fuel-injected as opposed to carbureted "T" indicates the engine has a factory installed turbocharger "TT" indicates the engine has factory twin turbochargers

Well i wasnt going to put it back in, its blocked off completely as you can see in the photo now, and so is the PCV. Just wondered what the purpose of it was. Cheers!

Forget the idea of "less airflow". It will be less, but it will be fine There are a million people with huge thick FMIC's on their cars that dont suffer any cooling issues. Think about the 100mm ones! They would kill a cooling system if they didnt flow. Im going to go with either your thermostat isnt opening fully, or your radiator is blocked, OR your fan isnt engaging fully at idle. In my R33 with Blitz LM FMIC, if i put my hand against the core at idle, you can feel the air getting sucked through your fingers, and its alot more than i expected! A heat shield on the turbo would be a good bet. I didnt have my OEM one on for a few days when i was tidying it up, and the heat inside the engine bay at standstill was alot higher. The strut bar felt like it was going to melt untill i put it back on haha. But in saying that, if the fan was spinning properly, then the air in the engine bay would be getting refreshed pretty quickly. Try the rad/thermo/fan.

You could buy a can of that engine flush shit, fill it up and let it soak for a few hours? Pour it out, flush it with kero? Theres a million things you could do.