xanavinismo

Hi all, So I fitted a pair of new Garrett -9 turbos to my R34 GT-R (new genuine gaskets/washers etc) and once I put it all back together & fluids back in I noticed I had coolant leaking from my rear turbo Eye bolt water line. Here a pic of what I mean: Then I remembered that I had forgotten the special note on the R32 GT-R workshop manual (couldnt find R34 GT-R's but should be the same?) that stated: I only now realised this is to make it easier to fit the eye bolt without damaging the copper crush washers etc. Naturally I'm like FFS! >,< Anyhoo long story short I got new/genuine copper crush washers and followed the above instruction and re-fitted eye bolt & both washers (easier now that it was loose). Confident that it should be right now I added coolant and bam - its still leaking!! So my question to you guys now is have I f#cked up the threaded connection of the eye bolt to turbo?? Ie - the Eye bolt thread looked fine but Im thinking the mating side? Confused as to what it could be now Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I've got the Mines ones and they do come with the yellow foam block but I was wondering how they go in? Ie - do you have to glue them on??

Thanks for your input 75coupe, well I removed the airbox cold air feed and that didnt help. Doesnt seem to be rubbing on anything else... in your case, what was ur fg bonnet rubbing on?

Yeah Michael that looks like the only thing I can do, as well as the bonnet pins. Ummm I havent been to the track in aaages but I definitly will once I get all these things sorted out.

Hmm interesting. Okay thanks for that mate I put the bonnet on myself. I had to put the standard bonnet back on because I had to drive it and that clicked in just fine. The U-clip on both bonnets dont look that different.... thats why im like wtf? haha

Heres how the U-clip thingy sits on the bonnet...

So Longz..... Michael (XKLABA) mentioned that you can have the bonnet pins providing they are flush with the bonnet like the ones you have, so yours arent legal? Also, might be interested in your CF ones if their for sale?

Hey Michael Yeah things are going good. No you cant do anything with the actual U-clip but as Zac mentioned you can play around with the latch assembly and move it higher.

Thanks for your input Longz, so you reckon if I get bonnet pins they can actually hold the bonnet down enough to help push the U-clip low enough to click into place?

So you mean its just a simple matter of the U-clip not being able to go low enough? Hence why you have to had to mount the latch assembly higher? If thats the case, how much higher did you have to mount it? Ie - like 5mm etc? Cheers

Hi all, I have an Autoselect Carbon bonnet for my R34 GT-R and have fitted it to my car but my problem is with the locking latch at the front... basically it just wont lock down/in the latch assembly no matter how hard I push down. I have played around with the latch assembly by removing the 3 x 12mm bolts that keep it into place and trying to move it up and down. I have also even tried to remove the springs and see if that would help at all but nothing. I've also tried adjusting where the bonnet bolts onto its hinges (near windscreen) and still nothing. Definitly not a case of not pushing down hard enough as I hard a 'crack' sound when I really gave it some so I didnt press down any further Here are some pics of the bonnet resting on the latch. Any info/help/tips would be greatly appreciated Cheers, Glen

I am happy to report that I have finally managed to wedge out the driveshaft! Wooohoo! I did it via wedging from inside the diff with a small pry bar/screw driver & using a hammer to give it that shock to release the circlip, for me a much easier option then somehow prying like you guys. Hats off to those who are able to pull it out that way Thanks again so much to all that gave me their helpful details/hints/tips! Cheers, Glen

Yes very frustrating indeed But wow what a coincidence, your in Canberra! Im up in the northside of Canberra. Would be really appreciated if you can come over and give me a hand! I can PM you my address...

After many attempts to pry the shaft out still no success So I moved back onto removing front diff cover... Okay so I finally removed diff cover (ableit using a razor blade to cut the silicon bond in between the diff housing/case. Next issue is where exactly do I pry from? The workshop manual for an R32 GT-R isnt showing exactly where to push up against... Thanks again for the help guys!

Do I also need to pull & rotate the driveshaft while prying? Because my problem is that the inner CV boot is completely split and theres nothing keeping the shaft in place

Thanks for the feedback guys! So where exactly do I pry it from? Eg - Up against the diff? Also when it comes to putting the drivers side drive shaft back in, there wont be any issues with lining it up with the circlip inside the diff etc? Cheers guys! Glen

Hi all, I am taking out the drive shafts to replace both inner CV Boots on an R34 GT-R. I have taken out the passenger side drive shaft out no worries but I am having difficulty pulling out the drivers side. Going off the workshop manual for an R32 GT-R (cant find R34's) it says that you have to drain oil from Front Diff, remove cover, remove C-clip then wedge out the drive shaft... My problem is removing the front diff cover. I have unbolted all 10 x 14mm bolts holding the cover in place but the cover seems to be really sealed on to the diff & I just cant get it off Anyone had this issue before? Any help/info/tips would be greatly appreciated Cheers, Glen

Hi all, I noticed a track day at Wakefield park for "Nissan Sports Car Club" on the 26th of May... has anyone ever been to this? Is it like old school Nissans or just any Nissans?? Cheers for any info

Hi all, Does fitting wheel spacers only on the rear wheels of an R34 GT-R adversely effect the ATTESSA ETS system? Ie - because of the larger rear track at the back... Thanks for any help.

Thanks, yeah I figured the exhaust would be okay. Just that braided brake lines are illegal.... so just got me paranoid that maybe the braided oil lines would be the same? We shall find out soon...

Yeah its definitely secure and no leaks. So hopefully it passes with no dramas. Cheers,

Hi all, I finally have to transfer rego for my R34 GT-R over to the ACT (from Sydney) and so I have to get the car inspected/passed. The only mods I have on the car is a surprisingly quite cat back Apexi N1 Evolution exhaust and (my biggest worry) a Trust Oil Cooler Kit with Oil Filter Re-locator. Are those oil coolers (with the Re-locator & braided Teflon lines) able to pass rego or will I have to get an engineering certificate to pass? Cheers,

Yeah its for the teflon lines.