xanavinismo

Awesome build man! So what gearbox are you using now?? Cheers, Glen

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but what Gearbox did you end up using in the end? Cheers, Glen

Wow cant handle that much... could it handle more if made on a Saturday? =P

Hi all, Just wanted to get your opinions on how strong a standard R34 GT-T RB25 gearbox is? Like: How much power can they take? What are their weaknesses? How are they at the racetrack? (Circuit, not drag racing) Any other info etc... Cheers guys! Glen

Thanks for your input Trex So ACT Rego dont have a problem giving you day permits more then once? Eg - Track day once a month?

Hi all, Has anyone ever used an 'Unregistered Vehicle Permit' to drive their track cars to track days etc? http://www.rego.act.gov.au/registration/unregistered-vehicle-permits Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! =D Cheers, Glen

But this is what trips me out... My Sat Nav & Head Unit were both already unplugged (so essentially the wires and pins arent touching or connected to anything right??) Why would there be wires going from Hazard lights to Sat Nav & Head Unit connections? Shouldnt they just go straight to the wiring loom? Oh and Eps - No wires are MFD related. Cheers,

I have pretty much exactly the same problem with my R34 GTR! Indicators and hazards do not work (no lights, no sound from flasher unit) but DOES work when I arm/dissarm my alarm system... hazard light is fully plugged in, fuse for indicators & hazard lights are fine. I recently cut off some wires that go to the standard Japanese Sat Nav (as it is was unplugged) but after looking at it closer I noticed that the the hazard lights has 8 wires: 3 to main wiring loom 3 to a Sat Nav connector 2 to the head deck wiring So im wondering why would there would be connections from hazards to sat nav/head deck?? Cheers for any info/help guys!

So R33 GT-R rear diff should be able to bolt straight in then? Ie - shaft lengths arent different?

Just like me....... good luck with finding one!!

Okay cheers guys. Sooo hard to find one for sale >,<

Hi all, Does anyone know if an R32 GTR rear diff bolts directly into an R34 GT-R? Ie - not the lsd centre but the actual read diff housing... Cheers, Glen

Hi all, Im after an R33 or R34 GTR rear diff - (NON V-Spec). Will travel and/or pay for courier Cheers, Glen

Hi all, Just have some questions about removing the front prop shaft on an R34 GT-R: 1) Do you 'pry' it out from the transfer case side? Ie - is there an O-Ring to remove first etc? 2) Do you have to remove the clutch slave cylinder to actually get the proper shaft out from underneath the car? Thanks for any info/help you guys can give Cheers, Glen

Thanks for the reply guys, so with my Catch tank the fittings are threaded, so does that mean I have no choice but to use Aeroflow or Earls fittings etc? Like I cant just use rubber hose and clamp? Cheers, Glen

Hi all, I bought a Hi Octane Catch tank for an R34 GT-R, and just wanted to ask you guys which oil lines you recommend I should use to go to the breathers, like brands and where I can get from etc? Cheers, Glen

Reviving an old thread here but I cant seem to find anywhere else in regards to the setup process of installing the NISMO MFD Ver II. I tried msg'ing AhhBurt but he hasnt been online since 2011! lol So can anyone shed some light on how to setup the Nismo MFD once installed? Cheers, Glen

+1, that made it sooo much easier for me

Thanks to you guys

I am happy to report that its all bolted up now and there are no more leaks! (so far ) So yes the filing & pocket stone method has worked! Thanks so much for the info & help guys! Cheers

Yeah i'll try the file & stone method first So should I use a 'fine' type of file?

Yeah fair enough man Okay so heres pics of the water line... So as you can see rough as hell! Now heres pics of the mounting point (on turbo side) Now from what I could see, it doesnt look anywhere near like the water line and could in fact be okay Please let me know what you guys think? Cheers,

Okay kool, will give it a look. Also is it safe to say that it doesnt take much to damage both mating surfaces? Ie - from trying to force the water line onto the turbo mounting point, & also rubbing against copper washer?

Haha yeah unfortunately I dont have one So i'll more then likely have to go the file & honing stone method. Though where can I get these honing stones? Never heard of it =P And yes i'll also look for any physical cracks on the pipe too when I pull it apart...

Thanks for replies guys, i'll give both mating surfaces a look. So if it is in fact that one (or both) mating surfaces are damaged, what is the best way of going about 'cleaning' them? Cheers,