unique1

the n1 is less volume due to the use of sustained higher rpm on high output engines or track use in general. The stock pump will flow the water around too quickly when using constant high rpm.

the deutsch connectors are the plan for every plug i can get suitable ones for, i found the hd30 series are the ones for the firewall bulkhead for the main loom in the engine bay. I bet they arn't cheap, any chance of a price on them StockGTR, DJRIFT? http://www.deutschipd.com/hd30_hdp20_techman.pdf

theres a pic of 1 rb26 motor i pulled down with blown turbos, it isnt melted piston or valves it is ceramic imbedded in the piston on the exhuast side only. I pulled another stock 26 down and the first 3 pistons looked like that too and guess what... the front turbo had blown the exhuast wheel off as well. The result is scored bores (some pretty deep too) and stuffed pistons, plus damaged valve seats and valves and pieces also imbedded in the cylinder head (which the decking machine tool doesnt like when it gets decked at the machine shop).

top work paul good to see some results, good luck in the jambo. So long term are you planning to run the ppg box or go auto or switch over to a liberty 5 speed as well?

for the cost of setting up an external pump i would not waste my time with any jap brand pumps, they are up around 2k now and the external pump setup isnt gonna cost that much if you source the parts yourself, and its alot simplier than people like to make out I am leaving my built motor on a stand until i sort out my dry sump setup now, i dont want to risk it any longer with the Jun pump, its only done a few thousand km's but still the cost of replacing cranks and rods, etc is not worth risking.

great seller, highly reccomended, sent parts to Perth as planned with no problems, thanks daniel

great win in the first race today, very solid car and good bloke as well as we had a good chat after the race and he was keen to answer questions. So sorry to see the second race and the accident which didnt look very nice, i feel for the guy he was doing so well as well. Hope he sorts it and gets back out there, the car is an absolute animal and a credit for the amount of time its been racing and how well its doing.

instant 80hp increase in power figures?

top info once again, i really appreciate all the ideas Djrift, i wouldnt mind a pic of the firewall bulkhead fitting you mention to get the starter main wire through safely. I might look into using the stock loom actually and just shorten the wires and rip out what i dont need, though i cant stand dealing with the sticky old electrical tape goo over all of them Ill have a good look at that wiring diagram too Duncan when i get a chance. I will also run the wipers too i just forgot them on my list. Moving the attessa to the front will be alot of work, i cant see the point really? keep the weight at the back, they are front heavy enough as it is plus 95% of the attessa loom is ready to go except about 4-5 wires that need to goto the ecu and battery. where abouts in the car are you mounting the battery Duncan? mines in the boot on the passenger side. I got told by a friend about a shop to get hold of those Blueseas marine fuse boxes i posted in the first post too, plus they sell lots of other switches and wire, etc http://www.the12voltshop.com they are in Perth but still could be handy to some people.

interesting rowdy, so a circuit breaker as in what duncan posted above or something smaller? Pics would be great, im keen for any ideas that will make life easier and look neater. All my wiring will be exposed and visable pretty much so the neater the better as im pretty damn fussy lol

Great info so far, i agree on the blueseas marine fuse box, they do look heaps better quality compared to the other options so far, i still think there has to be something more suitable but yet to find it Im also one to always crimp and solder as well for safety plus put on some decent heatshrink, as u mention dodgy connections are the worst thing to diagnose. Deutsch connectors for the bulkhead sound like a great option, i am definately keen on something similiar for the main engine loom to make life easier, i dont mind paying if its gonna be a good product, and from what ive seen of deutsch stuff they are top quality. I am not really at the stage of buying everything yet so its going to be abit of a slow process for the moment but ill keep putting up info and what ive bought as i go. Got to finish the rollcage work off first and then ill be into it, though some research now will save alot of time later when it comes to doing it. I did lay out all the looms (r32 gtr) the other night and start tracing what ATTESSA wires need to be hooked up once i cut them from the main loom. Its actually gonna be alot easier than i thought. Without using abs it cuts alot of the rubbish out too, hopefully no abs doesnt cause issues with the 4wd like i read on the forums from some people.

From the first post it seems you are not tieing in the front strut towers. But lets say u were going to, then at what stage would u do them? once the interior barwork was all fitted and done and then add on the strut tower bars through the firewall? or would u do it differently? great write up too, im getting stuck back into mine this weekend coming as the 3 phase power will finally be hooked up at home to use the tig. Mine came with instructions a fair bit different to the way you have done it, but i understand its upto personal experience and choice which way you go about it. My instructions say to do the holes in the floor for the hoop, then the hoop, then front legs, then one of the intrusion bars on each side and half of the other x bar, then remove the front leg from the car with baseplate attatched and weld the lot on the bench out of the car so access to the front leg pipework is easier. Then tack it back in onto hoop and do the windscreen bar, and roof barwork and then drop the rear of the hoop to weld up all the roof stuff. put it back up and tack back onto hoop baseplates, finish other half of intrusion bars and then do the rear backstays. Im still wondering how on earth to access the top of the rear backstays as i cant drop the cage to get to them, and im mounting them on top of the strut towers too which means no room to drop them at all. I know im jumping ahead abit but how do u plan on doing the backstays? and how do u access the top part of them on the hoop?

damnn i hate computers i just wrote a massive reply and the computer stuffed up and deleted it!!!! ok this is the short version as i cant be bothered writing it again... where are those fuse panels available from and how much duncan? whats the best way to bring the main thick power cable from the battery to the starter while needing a junction in the dash area for the switch panel etc? one of those 100amp circuit breakers do the job, or wont it handle the current draw on cranking? the best place to buy wire in various colours and thin like factory stuff? those bulkhead fittings for the battery cable through firewall look like they would be exposed and possibly dangerous if u touch it with a spanner or something? do u make some sort of cover over them? i am moving the hole for the engine loom also to directly behind the wiring loom mounted above the fuel rail area, but am looking into the plug in connectors from big machinery to save having to try and seal up the hole and make engine in and out easier. They are around the $250 mark i have been informed but not verified as yet. I am also having my coils (aftermarket) mounted in the car and leads come out the firewall directly behind the engine. Do u have any sort of diagrams drawn up at this stage Duncan? i'll be wiring up these things so far... headlights tailights indicators ecu cdi battery cut off switch switch panel racepak dash alternator starter motor power windows and mirrors (until i can find non power options) ign switch fuel pumps attessa i am thinking about keeping the Atessa, fuel pumps and tailights relays and fuses all in the boot on a seperate panel at this stage to aviod running wires back and forth. thats about all for the moment

hey guys i am keen on any info on what people are using for fuseboxes and wiring loom wise for track only cars that are starting the wiring from scratch. I dont want to run the factory loom as 99% of the stuff isnt being used anymore, neither is most of the stuff in the fusebox and its ugly and too big. Ive seen info on the painless wiring looms but they seem abit pricey considering what u get and i'd prefer to buy the fusebox seperately and then the wiring. Has anyone got any links or info of good places to get hold of aftermarket fuseboxes for a reasonable price. heres a few ive found so far... these are marine fuse panels, but they look alot neater than the usual Narva options ive seen, unsure on costs as yet. http://bluesea.com/category/5/21/products/5026 narva usual common one, not a fan of these due to the exposed wires and the need for every connection to have a positive wire making it messy. These are cheap but nasty imho. This narva option is neater and can be mounted on a panel without ugly wiring stickin out the sides but the wires behind are only about 20cm long so u have to make a join on every single wire. I think these are around the $120 mark from memory what others are there? im also keen on switch panels and switches in general without paying $180 for a starter switch on a glossy peice of plastic like some of them go for. Also wiring loom wire, and mil spec plug options for the firewall as used on heavy duty machinery with bulkhead fitting for the engine loom coming through the firewall. For plugs i reccomend the deutsch (sp?) ones as they are by far the best available, though pretty pricey its definately worth it in the long run. any input welcome im sure others are interested in the options also ill add more as i research and get more time

thanks guys, r33 it is then i know how to fit one up thats no drama, i just didnt want to order the wrong one.

hey Nick the cradle is from a 260rs hence my question ill measure it up before i buy one and confirm with the seller that the holes are the same etc.

thanks mate, if i remove the rack it wont be hard, i did the one in the gtr and it was easy once u pop the balljoints off the hub with a pulley

does anyone know which hicas lockbar fits the autech 260rs? r33 i assume? I'd prefer someone who knows for sure as im about to order one and dont want to get the wrong one.

Hey sorry to post this here but im trying to get a message to MIKE and his pm box is full, im keen on that n/a front grille for sale send me a PM when u get this mate This can be deleted once he sees it cheers

Hey Mike ill take the grille if your keen to send to Perth, ill pay delivery costs no problem, i tried sending a PM but your inbox is full. send me a PM when u get this mate

any other dry sump gear for sale shane?

think of those wheels on a black stagea with r34 gtr front, would look nuts

because im into the tough look over the showy look personally, just my personal taste The old hi octane r32 gtr is a classic example of how cool black te37s do look and lmgt4s have to be black to look good advan rs are one of my favourites too

Hey Mike you have commented on previous posts i showed the wheels when i test fitted them a while ago but havent had a chance to chuck good tyres on them so the 33 gtr ones are on at the moment. Heres the only pics i got of them... coilovers arnt low in the pic of rears as i couldnt be stuffed lowering it at the time so they arnt tucking in as much here is the 33 gtr ones too, fronts definately need big fat spacers to sit right

2 rim options - black lmgt4s or bronze or black te37s pity they are soo damn pricey!