unique1

how many are usually in the sports compact field for these events?

Hey Paul could u please send me a PM with a breakdown of price on this setup, i am in the market for an ecu/ignition setup and keen on vipec i just dont want to have annoying spark issues with big power (650rwhp+) like i have been having with a previous setup and cdi unit. Are the motec/mercury coils any good to use with the setup (they are cdi coils so i assume maybe not)? i got 6 of em lying around i only bought a while ago, so if they are good enough i will just remain with them, i also have an Autronic CDI unit ready to go but its only a 3 channel and would prefer to not to run a wasted spark setup if i can help it. I will be seeing you guys on the weekend if your racing at winternats and have a chat about it if your not too busy.

search in the fabrication section his username is tufrx3 (Karl) i bought a couple off him the other week and they are cheap as and work perfect and look like top quality work, highly reccomended! this is a link to his profile (hopefully it works)... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/tufrx3-m23990.html

AWESOME NEWS!!! im flying over from Perth with my uncles drag team to check this event out ill be sure to come over for a chat to you guys, i havent seen any tough drag gtr's in Perth and looking forward to checking the event out along with the top fuelers and top alchohol funny cars

i bought mine from Ray Hall Turbochargers, proper version as on the link posted by Disco

thanks Risking, so what exactly is done to the ppg when pulled down every 6 days? just basic clean up of the dogs? or buying parts to freshen it up? i know very little about the dog setups as i havent needed to touch mine as yet but would be keen to know whats involved. I would go a holinger in a flash but 22k is alot of cash when ive spent soo much already on the motor it just gets out of control.

so whats the maintenance required on the ppg dog straight cut and at what intervals and costs?

interesting stuff, let us know how u get on with prices, whats available etc Duncan im keen as well as i gotta wire mine up very soon as well

great car and setup i am liking all these buildup threads lately giving me incentive to finish mine +1 on info on the dry sump setup, i have a Jun pump on a big dollar bottom end and paranoid of a failure and dry sumping is looking likely before something happens i regret. whats a decent 4 or 5 stage pump worth etc? and what size are the lines for all the plumbing? dash 12s? Mick i run a ppg dog set and its the best money ive spent, dont waste time with synchro boxes they are like chalk and cheese compared to the dog setups. I havent had any issues with mine so no need to deal with ppg but as far as the product goes i cant complain. mine handled hard driving in a 1750kg setup with 560awhp+ on drag launches and runs and no probs, the shifting is soo fast compared to sychro boxes.

yes i know that, the setup was in a street car before when having the issues of noisy pumps but now its going into a track only car and it needs the pumps, one 044 wont cut it so 2 is needed for the power output i am running.

i run a single 044 feeding a 3l surge tank into twin 044s and after 30 min of driving the pumps get alot louder and the surge tank is pretty damn warm, i will be adding a fuel cooler on mine for sure, the cooler the fuel the better

if you want the nicest clutch to drive yet can handle over 600awhp no problems, go straight for a NPC twin plate clutch, best in the business!!!! ive tried exedy, extreme singles and they are weak as and wont cope with hard 4wd launches for long. Direct clutch twin was nice to engage, super strong, but heavy as hell to press so dont bother. Os Giken quad plate i had was nice and soft and handles the power but its really annoying to engage and bunny hopping from lights is not cool seriously if you want to get a clutch and never have to upgrade and have it drive and feel like stock then a NPC twin plate is the go, they are $2000 and way better than the other options. I've done 8500rpm launches with mine and 560rwhp at drags heaps of times and never slipped once.

So Which rings would u reccomend on a rb30 bottom end freshen up (on the cheap!!!, its been rebored to 86.5mm and using endurotech cast pistons because the bore was too worn to reuse stocker pistons), i doubt ill ever push over 420rwhp at the absolute most as the pistons, rods etc will be the first to fail. I assume all the hasting rings are cast? i got the hastings moly rings sitting here and now im concerned lol. Do hastings do a suitable ring for my application? what would u reccomend and how much are they worth roughly? Do rb26 ring sizes fit rb30 pistons?

So Greg how come hasting moly rings are bad in a turbo motor?

lol the motor got swapped into a stagea and now its going into a gtr so its all good The vl copped a stagea rb25 motor and was sold off years ago

ive thought about it before i got the track car but realised its alot of stuffing around when a gtr is alot less work, being different is sometimes a pain in the arse.

mitsubishi gto would be awesome, pity they same dramas as leggys with lack of room and no gearbox tunnel

lol mines in a stagea (1700kg) its one heavy sucker anyway so loading it up is no problem I would like to know why its stated its important to keep the motor off boost early on in the run in for, anyone got any ideas?

if your north of river in Perth try Northside Nissan in Wangara, ask for Steve Barnes he is one of the main spare parts guys and knows gtr's well as he has one of his own and is very helpful.

goto nissan a new one for a rb26 oil pump is like $10 or so, dont risk using an old one unless u wanna pull the pump later because of a leak. You can use abit of gasket goo on it to but dont put too much or it could block the oil feed inlet/outlet.

nice to hear so i was thinking along the lines of running shit oil (gtx, etc) for 100km of reasonable loading up driving but keeping it off full boost, then change oil over to proper good stuff at 100km if the leakdown shows up good, is this how u did it or did u do some power run stuff still running the cheap oil? this new setup is damn hard to keep off boost being a 3076r on a 3L its making heaps of boost around 1800rpm+ unlike the other motor i ran in was easy as its not making anything till late 3800rpm+ I suppose a $500 cheap setup is the way to learn if run ins are needed anyway

so sort of off topic but how many people have done very limited km's and started power tuning within 100km or so? i have always done 1000km run ins and am building a stocker internal rb30 very soon and was gonna try out the build it and drive it for 50-100km and then straight into power tuning, whats the thoughts here ? as long as a leakdown comes up good i cant see why another 900km+ is needed. any experiences on short run ins im keen on

Paul you can use either front or rear, the rear looks neater imo but as Butters said one less line to worry about not being able to get to if its on the front of the motor. I dont know about garret turbos and restrictor i have a 3076 on my other motor and its been getting abit of blowby past the front seal and its brand new so maybe its worth a look into.

i look at it as the motor is gonna go if you push close to risky numbers and a bad tune it can go with alot less power, so goto a turbo with headroom for more WHEN (not if, its when!) you rebuild it or you will be doing the turbo change again later on something small like a gt28 is a waste of time and wont feel quick for long and you will want more. Choose one size up from the power figures you think you are chasing as you will always want abit more, just run low boost for the meantime until you upgrade the motor etc. A 3076r or 3082r is a good option imo for a 2.5L, if it was a 3L i'd push towards the 3582r.