unique1

Yer thats in the position it will be mounted its a well made kit actually i bought from Rod Andrews Race Cars and got it sent here, the hoop is touching just below both seatbelt mounting spots on the B pillars which is perfect and the front leg bars are spot on and only about 10mm or so away from the A pillars at the middle of the pillars, the point where the A pillar meets the roof is about 2mm away and as close as it could get everywhere else. I havent mounted any of the other bars yet but it seems like a good deal for $800 for the lot and its CAMS and ANDRA approved design so thats a bonus. Its all CDS as i was told CM is alot of work to get past CAMS without alot of extra expense. does Mark visit the forums often? i wouldnt mind some info on the question about accessing the welds on the difficult spots and what order to do some of the barwork going into the engine bay strut towers etc.

no worries mate, yer i have cut the holes to drop the hoop down and hoop is setup and front legs are pretty much sorted i am just worried about specific rules with the position of the front leg and can it be welded up the sill, i got a pic ill post to show u what i mean... the plate spacing the leg off the sill isnt the plate i will use so dont mind the bend in it thats just to get it spaced off the 3mm or whatever the plate is gonna be. Ill have a 3mm plate on the floor and 3mm plate up the sill too for extra strength. I am just trying to avoid leaving a 20mm gap up the sill area to weld right around as it then brings the legs too far off the pillar and effects head room. Ive read through the CAMS rulebook 20 times and cant find if its ok or not.

hey Duncan have u managed to weld around the entire join of every rollcage pipe? the ones for the front strut towers look pretty close to the gaurds that welding around the side and underneath would be nearly impossible? also the ones coming from the main hoop bottom to the rear strut tower point look to be tough to access also? i assume they were bars all added in last once the main hoop was finished and welded up in position? one other question, i want to sit the front legs coming from the A pillars hard onto the side of the sill (well hard onto the base plate bent up the sill), and weld up the side of them, is this allowed if i have the base plate bent to go up the sill and on the floor area, as welding around the sill side will be tough and if i leave enough room to weld then its gonna be a fair distance off the A pillars which i dont want also. Head clearance is not the greatest im gonna have to lower the seat as it is and im pretty short.

how about cutting the parcel shelf back half way and adding a new rear firewall behind the strut towers? that means the strut tops are now officially in the compartment area. i also got a rollcage question i might add in here if the OP doesnt mind..... im trying to get the front legs as close to the A pillars as possible, therefore the front legs joining onto the floor plates will end up on a slight angle to allow some room agianst the sill to get the welder in around the legs to complete the welds, is that ok or should they be perfectly vertical coming from the A pillar to the floor plate?

how many gearboxes have u gone through? i broke mine first pass with 522hp (has made 605hp before, which would probably be about 700hp on a hub type dyno, going by the local dynos anyway) and threw in a dogbox and ran a 11.3 @ 125mph. I highly doubt 220kmh at end of strip, the drag calculator which is pretty damn accurate reckons u would need 650rwkw to run that speed and thats good for 9's. 2 tonne and 500kw is around 125mph.

any drag times pure meth? mine will be in hpi magazine very soon i have done a photoshoot already i just need to get back and do a couple more photos before its ready for the article to be published.

hey Trent do u have any results for rb26's running stock plenums? i run individual egt's and my results and a friend running egt's as well but with different turbo setup is showing alot different to what i have always heard stated as "fact" on this forum. number 6 is the hottest off boost and Not the hottest on fullboost by a fair bit, is this what you have found as well?

to convert to rwd is easy enough, grab the stock front axles and pull the cv joints out of them and bolt them back in, rip the 4wd sump off and install a rb25 2wd sump. Remove the front tailshaft and either buy a rb25 manual box or get a gtr box and cut off the tf case. remove all the attessa lines/pumps/etc above the rear diff and its gonna save a good 70kg or so, i have weighed the differences from rb25 box to a gtr 4wd box and its like 35kg difference, then the 4wd sump is 21kg heavier than the rwd sump, front driveshafts are 6kg each from memory, then attessa pumps would a good 10kg+, front tailshaft another 5kg, etc. Alot of hassle really unless you can do the work yourself than its probably worthwhile. if you go manual then ecu is easy, all of them will work fine.

pretty much all correct i used the stock auto stagea front tailshaft on mine (big power and rev limiter launches) and never broke it but it is alot smaller than a gtr one

fair enough sounds like a good idea i didnt even know about the gts4 ones, thanks for the info

what doesnt work? do u mean pushed as in making alot of power? ive never had an issue yet with mine, i have removed it from my other motor but redoing all the water lines etc under the plenum is a pain, well harder than just screwing the rb26 oil cooler on anyway. whats a gts4 one look like?

this thing is very very serious i dont want to say too much as i'll leave that upto Dave, he is gonna be rocking a killer machine and very far beyond 99.9% of the current packages going around, im sure the numbers will do the talking. He is a good bloke and is taking this car very seriously, ill be watching this car with anticipation good luck with it all mate i'd love to hear of any updates via PM if your not keen on posting on the forums cheers

yes it can be done, i just unscrewed the fitting out of a rb26 block that has the slot in it for the oil cooler block and used that to screw in the place of the threaded one on the rb30, it screws straight in and works same as rb26. To get the 30 one out i ground a straight into it with an angle grinder and used a thin bar to unscrew it (was damn tight, might need to heat it with any oxy to crack the seal if its really tight), the rb26 one already has a slot in it so use a piece of bar that will fit in it and do the same.

Hey mate i am running a 30 bottom end, 26 head and gt3076r at the moment with just 2wd sump but using a gtr manual box in my stagea. I went 2wd first to see if i like the 30 bottom end, i didnt wanna waste 1k on an adaptor plate and find i would rather a 26. I havent drivin the car bugger all as i said but from what i found its bloody responsive and pulls from 2000rpm onwards, its only making mid 300hp range at moment and it feels gutless (v8 style power with no hit when coming on boost). Im a bad one to judge though as i had a t04z before and alot more power so its hard for me compared to going from a stock setup to this. It just seems abit to twitchy coming on boost when u dont want it, even half throttle and its screaming on boost. I think for some they will love it but im not entirely sold on it. The one big factor that really annoys me more than anything is the noise of the spooling of this turbo. Its sooo damn loud and sounds over the top for the power it makes, i dont want stupid whistling noises etc at low rpm when trying to put around the streets it sounds just as annoying as those super loud bov's that go off at 2kmh. That is my main problem with it and i know it probably sounds cool to some people but i hate it. Its got the hks t51r whistle but with out the grunt lol. i must admit i thought it was cool for the first drive but about 5 min in it got on my nerves. thats my opinion ill add to it when i can actually drive the thing if i put the single back on, its now got stock twins to pass the engineer and then i dont know if im gonna go 2860 -5s or back to the single and see how i like it, ill probably got the 3582r if i go single again though.

i did say that and thats my opinion, i think a gt3540 would be a much better option for a 3L

hey ryan are u being sarcastic? its hard to tell on forums lol i personally havent pushed the 3076r to its limits yet and havent drivin the car more than 20 mins all up as its unregoed so i cant make a final judgement till i can, i find the power lacking personally but i did have alot more power previously and it just feels too slow for me. anyway enough of the off topic

thats not correct, a 2wd box will bolt upto a 4wd sumped rb25/26 and a gtr box will also bolt upto a 2wd sumped rb engine, they are the same bellhousings and both fit onto the motor which ever sump it has. if u choose a rb25 box from a gtst then obviously u are gonna loose the 4wd but it will bolt onto the motor fine, im not 100% sure on the gearbox crossmembers being the same though.

not a fan one bit i have to agree with ryan1600, c34 and r34 front wins hands down, the 35 front lights are horrible imo, not to mention the m35 rear lights the whole car is just to high and narrow it needs to be lower and fatter arh well thats my thoughts i seem to be the odd one out.

or put a manual in it and give it some revs Yours actually goes really well mate, great package u got and the car looks nice too, im not usually a fan of s2's but it does look good

hey dave i had a leaking seal too and it was from not putting some gasket goo on the front cam cap to seal the 2 little slits in it, the workshop manual doesnt even mention it needs it but its been on every motor ive pulled apart and worked perfect, maybe this isnt it but just thought it was worth a mention. cant wait to see it out of the track too, i have been keeping a keen eye out for it every meet

thanks John, see u guys there

burswood has like 20 carparks i think a better description of which actual carpark would of been nice i can see alot of people who didnt come on the last one not be able to find the group. Its the same carpark as last time i assume?

overkill i dont think so, its gonna be soo responsive anyway, its not going to be pushing 25psi to make the numbers and it will be suitable for any future plans for abit more power, its not laggy one bit i actually think its annoying how responsive it is on a 3l i have removed it. its spooling and coming on boost under 2000rpm easy (remember this is on a 3L) which is sometimes annoying if u wanna cruise around offboost its rather touchy on the throttle.

there is alot of gt30 options remember, a gt3082r is not a good choice either as i have read it has almost the same boost response as a gt3582 but cost alot of top end power, the gt3076r is the best option and highly spoken about on the forced induction section of these forums. i got one on my 26/30 and i think its actually too responsive but thats on a 3L, it would suit a 2.5L perfectly.

depending on your power expectations the best bet is the gt3076r (56 trim), these are making good numbers around the 400-420rwhp mark on 20psi or so and very very responsive. my mate runs a gt35 on his rb26 and fullboost isnt till around 4000rpm which is abit much and unless u have a built motor i wouldnt go that big.