unique1

Adam yes it does have an aftermarket one thats adjustable and i was playing with adjustment days before i got it tuned and unsure exactly what its set to now, you could be on the money, thanks for that ill be checking it now

absolutely stunning results, how does this power output compare to marks own gtr? one question, how come the use of stock crank/capacity and not the 2.7L? i know the 2.6L can do it obviously but was there any particular reason why the JUN crank wasnt used? i cant wait to see this and pauls car out on the strip, godzilla motorsport is gonna be the biggest gtr shop in oz by far, though i think it already is is rh9 running the vipec ecu or motec?

Hey Nick, fair enough, looking at the runners merging into the flange that bolts onto the head it isnt very good at all, massive steps and edges sticking into the flange hole areas restricting the flow, i havent got any pics but was considering redoing the flange part again so they are smooth and flow well. We did check the base timing before the tune and its moved by the looks of it unless my timing light is 10 degrees out compared to the one we used on dyno for some odd reason. I have had issues before with the trigger disk jumping around and altering timing so that could also be a possibility and hence a couple of runs were ok and then the rest were dipping in the middle. I bought a new trigger disk but i been told they are also wrong and need to redrilled to suit my engine. i havent had time but more dyno runs are in order and sort this out its just not anywhere near the ballpark it should be.

just grind off the rb30 and stamp on whatever head u are using, they will never ever be able to tell the difference.

i know its not right, i also know this dyno is very low reading (as i said this 315rwhp figure would be 350rwhp on any other dyno dynamics dyno in Perth), still way too low but. cheers Al, great results if mine was anywhere near that i would be happy, i am running the external gate version too so boost should be pretty stable.

well 2 of the last motors ive pulled apart that have had blown turbos in there life show peices of ceramic on the head quench areas and inbedded in the pistons, u can tell because its usually on only the front or rear 3 cylinders and when they deck it u can still see pitted holes and the decking machine doesnt like the ceramic pieces lol.

sorry for 2 posts in a row but i cant edit the one above now. AL what is low and high boost on your dyno graph and are they both on 98 pump fuel? mine follows very similiar until that dip and then it dies out after 108kmh

cheers ash, ill try and get it down to dyno when i get some spare time. I just noticed on the fuel map also that above 5500rpm its getting less fuel than at 5000 and 5500rpm so that means its really restrictive above 5500rpm.

thanks for the comments, i been thinking about it today and my mate used to own the exhuast manifold on a rb26 running a gt3540 from a xr6t and only ever managed 360rwhp on 24psi or something, so i think mani isnt helping at all. Valve float with a rb26 head is unlikely. The exhuast will be dropped first with the cat left on and see the difference, and then ill unbolt the cat too and try it. Its running a screamer yes. I want to drive it and see how it feels properly but the cars not to be drivin on the road, ill get a permit on weekend and drive it for abit and see how it feels. I have to add on a couple of the dyno runs it suddenly didnt dip power at 5000rpm at all and then last few it did it again so something is playing up, afr's stayed the same on both runs and boost was spot on the whole way. i also did a leakdown on the motor last night and it isnt exactly healthy... 29%, 29%, 20%, 27%, 27%, 30% are the leak results, so its definately not good. Wish i put new rings in it while it was apart i also checked the base timing and it was on 10 degrees when ecu said it was supposed to be on 20 degrees, so that means when at fullboost it was only on like 7 degrees, ill have to dyno it again and see what happens

hey guys i been reading the 30 forums for a fair while and recently finished a throw together engine for abit of fun and see how the 30 performs compared to my old rb26. I bought a stocker n/a bottom end from a mate for a carton and pulled it apart and ring gaps were shocking (like double the gap it should have), but bearings were pretty decent and motor had been rebuilt in 1998 so i just put it together. The rb26 head is a recond dead stocker with no porting or mods at all. I am using a 1.2mm hks metal gasket i had lying around as well. Comp test showed all cylinders are within 2psi and around the 150psi range so its pretty low comp ratio i reckon. I threw on a brand new gt3076r 56t with the 0.8 v-band housing and a custom steam pipe manifold (used to be on Fatz old r31 actually) and a hks 50mm gate i had also lying around. Its got a 3" exhuast with a 3' used high flow cat and small centre muffler with internal diameter around 2.5' or so and a rear magnaflow 3.5' cannon (pretty much whole engine is using bits i had sitting around). went to the dyno on friday and threw it on, ran great once we sorted a dead coil and idled smooth as silk The tuner played around and did the offboost stuff and mentioned he had trouble keeping it off boost anything around the 2000rpm range it just wanted to scream on lol. We put boost on gate pressure (12psi or so) and it made around the 270hp range, then upped it to 17psi and managed 315rwhp (dyno is very low reading, on other dd dynos ive gained another 40hp or so, so its around the 345-350rwhp range). We noticed it climbs real nice upto 5000rpm and then dips on the curve and then slowly goes back up to 6800rpm revlimit. When we added 2psi boost it would gain 30rwhp just under the 5000rpm area but by the peak power rpm it only gained 4hp. any ideas on what it could be? afr's stay spot on through the rpm range and so does the boost so im thinking its the cat, or muffler or even the turbo is just too small and cant push much more up the top but the boost increase just pushes the midrange power up. anyone seem something similiar with restrictive turbo/exhuast setups? I was hoping for around the 360rwhp range on this dyno but it seems to have hit a brick wall and more boost is giving bugger all gains. im thinking gt3582 time already and i only just got it tuned. I only drove it for 20 secs because its currently in an unregistered car.

nice work, im lookin for a new ecu at the moment for my track setup, its between the sm4 and vipec. Can the vipec run using the autronic 500r cdi for ignition? i have the cdi and thats my main reason for buying a second autronic (i currently run a smc in my other car) does mark do tuning in other states if flights and accomodation are paid for? also Paul i think u will find the biggest benefit from that list of new mods is gonna be that dogbox!!! they can not be beaten, i couldnt beleive how slow sychro boxes feel once u have drivin a dog setup, its like chalk and cheese.

Hey Coop i recieved the accusump today mate thanks alot for that, it took me ages to unwrap it from the amount of silver tape u wrapped it in lol Now i just have to find a suitable location to mount the tank, im thinking under the plenum on chassis rail (where the hicas pump usually is) or at the front somewhere, just worried if i have a front end bingle i dont want to damage it. How much was the PWR radiator worth too? PM if u like, i just picked up one second hand for cheap and wondering what it would of cost new roughly. thanks again

that cradle looks great, and rather expensive im just wondering what arms did u use for the hicas removal setup u run?

nice build, cant wait to see results i also run the npc twin plate and its the best clutch for the power it handles, i've drivin extreme single plates, os giken twin and quad plates and direct clutches and they are all nothing compared to the smoothness and nice soft pedal feel of the NPC. Ive done tonnes of launches with 420kw+ (In 4wd) and never had an issue with slipping either

well now ive started the conversation of cages, can a cage be CAMS and ANDRA approved, and if not how come?

great info thanks guys, sounds like an easier method than cutting holes in floor.

Sorry for the possible silly question but when making the rollcages how do u go about accessing the pipework near the roof etc to weld it around completely? ive seen guys cut panels out the floor, is this normal method or is there another way? i have all glass in the car too which obviously isnt going to help i assume.

yer i always use pauls method too, rev limiter and drop clutch havent broken anything on a launch yet with 430kw at wheels, more chance of breakage is the 2nd to 3rd gear shift, go easy on it, i broke mine on its first pass. I hope your clutch is good

lol paul alot of that sounds like a build i did and i learnt a hell of alot and never regret doing all the stuff myself, it may have cost money to fix problems and i shouldnt have started on a damn expensive engine setup but its well worth it as ive just completed another engine build myself and about to start a third, it saves money in the long run if u have the willingness to learn and someone u can talk to on a regular basis for info if u become stuck at any point. The funny bit is i had mates who said bugger that and paid a shop to do theres and they end up with more problems than i did and the shops are supposed to have done it before. If i didnt have the knowledge to do it myself i would definately send it to you though. Ill send u a pm regarding some info on head porting now i come to think of it.

come on cheque book racing is where its at nick i couldnt imagine the price at the end and how long u gotta wait, i'd rather do it myself and enjoy it, sometimes its annoying doing stuff but at the end of the build u will get 100 times more satisfaction and u know whats what if u need to modify something or adjust things.

lol, no need to be jelous now, look i can shut my bonnet but my cars another 250-300kg heavier than a gtr, i think your still in front

the turbo is stock mitchy, just high mounted it Im gonna paint rims soon, but gotta go do the hpi photoshoot first before i paint em. I finally got it running on stock coils and ignitor yesterday, runs pretty good, gonna book a tune asap now and then organise the engineer. I got to hand in my plates now so its currently unregoed lol. Oh and another bonus is i fitted the bonnet on and it closes with about 10mm clearance everywhere so stageas and rb30's are meant to be

this info is probably useless to 99.99% of people but rb26/30 in a stagea and the bonnet closes with ease, without any mods at all, motor on the standard mounts and not lowered at all. Going by my measurements with some bluetack (lol) i got atleast 10mm clearance at the closest points (timing cover area). just thought i would add this in the topic incase someone asked in future

no worries mate, from memory i used the 26 one, it was about 6-7 years ago now so my memory isnt the best on the conversion.

so your wanting to put a rb30 sump on a 26 in a vl? the rb26 block already has the mounting holes to bolt a rb30 sump straight on (look under the block and it has 2 sets of holes, big ones and smaller ones, smaller ones are for the 30 sump), u just need to modify the side a fraction to clear the oil pickup area, not a big deal, i wouldnt stuff around using a 26 sump and cutting diff off etc, wayyy more work than modifying the 30 sump. i had a rb26 with 30 sump (or rb25 sump, i think they are the same) in a vl and it went in fine.