unique1

i havent tried the bonnet yet properly, but those breathers are just sitting on the top of covers, they havent been pushed in covers yet, so they will drop 20-30mm when put in. I have to remove the strut brace because the turbo is sitting in such a shit position, but i cant be bothered changing the manifold yet i just want it going, ill eventually redo the mani so it sits alot lower and tighter to the engine.

lol, its not that special, nothing like it was anyway, its a stock rb30 bottom end (cost me a carton of jack daniels $90) and its been rebuilt back in 98 so its probably not the best, we pulled it down and bearings are good, the rings i dont know to be honest, ill wait and find out as we just left the same ones. I bought the 26 head on a low comp complete rb26 a while ago and got that recond, all up its a pretty cheap setup, the biggest cost is the head, turbo, wastegate (got one here lying around) and ecu (using my current autronic), im using stock gtr injectors, coils, cams, etc, the setup will only make 400hp at wheels max because of the turbo size, but should make boost very early and plenty of torque. It will never compare to the other engine with 560hp+ but its gonna be the daily driver asap so its gonna have to do.

the autech doesnt have the passenger wind deflector in good condition does it? if it does ill take it (if u dont need it), this is the main part i wanted from the start. Thanks for holding the parts too, ive installed the rear window trim and stuff already, looks abit neater now. good luck with it mate Brad

i weighed a rb26 bare block compared to a rb30 bare block and the 30 is only 4-5kg heavier

yer its a rb26/30 with single gt3076r turbo, pretty simple setup but should go alright, its only 2wd for this setup at the moment, i wanna see how i like the 30 compared to 26 first before spending money on the 4wd adaptor etc.

i agree 100% with guilt toy, i try to do every bit of work myself if i can, i have allowed workshops to do a few minor things like setting up shims on a rb26 head because it would save me the hassle and i know its right, well guess what, they stuffed it up and set them to wrong clearances and i had to rebuy $200 of shims and do it all again myself. I have made a fair few mistakes over the years and cost me alot but i know now how to do it and am doing my own engine builds etc without problems Most workshops u have the apprentice kid working on the car which im not a fan of, though i know alot of them do a good job. Even at my own house workin on my car i dont let any of my mates help me do any work or install anything as i need to double check anyway and i want it done my way, im pretty damn fussy haha. The only thing i cant do is tuning (yet lol) so if i use a workshop i make sure i can be there for any dyno work i dont want to recieve a call that my engine is stuffed and some stupid story they make up to sound like its the motors fault.

i removed the rb26 from my gtr in 4 hours and thats on the floor in a 2 car garage with no hoist, a workshop shouldnt take any longer as they got the hoist and that makes life alot easier. As adam said the 4wd side of things adds abit of extra work but not too much really. I would offer a hand myself but i am in the middle of a couple of builds at the moment

dont forget the head as well

nice work mate, you dont mess around do ya I know the owner of the rs4 u bought, he used to be on the forums ages ago, it looks like the same car and rims to me. I hope u have been careful with the trims i wanna buy ahha ill be in contact and head down on sunday or something if your free and raid your spares The autech has the same front end as the rs4 from what i know (both are same as gtr), its only the rear that is different to allow for fatter wheels

heres a sneak peak of the new engine setup in my stagea, the turbo side of things isnt on yet i gotta sort that out next, should be up and running within a couple of weeks.

from the 1j's ive seen they make upto 400-420hp with ease but then hit a brick wall, they need a hell of alot of boost to make 500hp with a big turbo. Ones i know of run 24psi on a t78-33d making only 410hp and another one with cams and gtk650 making 480hp on around 24-25psi. Though i must say they are both stock internals and lasting with that sort of power and boost. Plus they are cheap motors to buy compared to 25's.

dogbox

rick the local HPI/Zoom photographer asked me 2 years ago at car show and i said i wanted drag time and good dyno run before i do, hes asked me on previous occasions since if im ready and i havent been happy with the car. Unfortunately i never got to meet my goals due to a defect notice (got it back at start of June) that i have 3 weeks left to sort the car or its unregoed, not happy but thats life. New motor is gonna be abit less powerful but a shitload of fun and i got plans for more mods to the external appearance of the car now, instead of focusing on the motor all the time like this setup. I got a r32 gtr now for this current engine, will weigh in at 1280kg or so once running, should go alright considering its over 400kg lighter than the stagea

not that fast really, 11.33 at 124mph at drags fullweight (1740kg + driver) on first outing and only 18psi of boost and over 560hp at wheels in vids (has gone 605hp at wheels on 22psi on low reading dyno too)

Thanks Dale, it wont be too insane for much longer, motors coming out this weekend (after the HPI photoshoot is done on friday arvo), got a new engine setup going in, should be a fun daily driver heres another one from motorvation motorkana event http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=DDeke3z7KNs

i think i may have found a breakthrough on why its misfiring, ill let u know when i chat to a few people about it, im using jun valve springs to suit the cams (came in a kit) and the head is from a rb26.

thanks mate for the info on settings, i was worried when mine was showing 40 knock lol, seems its not such a big deal. I get knock (interference noise) all the time if i plug in another usb cable for my innovate egt logger and autronics data cable which is annoying, not sure how to get around this either?

im trying to find specs to dial in my jun camshafts on my rb26, i want to use a degree wheel and set it up exact but finding these specs is providing to be very difficult and the instructions that come with them are japanese so not much help to me, has anyone got info on jun cams and reccomended specs? Ive even emailed jun countless amounts of times and no reply, the jun auto site seems to contain every bit of info except what i need.

i can see why people dont bother posting info or results on the forums anymore, everyone has got to hang shit on them for something. Good work Trent, nice to see someone willing to share results and whats done to the car.

as disco has said i have seen the yanks get good results from this fuel on the gto forums, heres one of them on stock heads, cams, etc running e85, the results are huge and he said he made more power than on vp race fuel, this guy works in one of the biggest gto shops in the US and has the 2nd fastest one in the world so he isnt some keyboard mechanic either. anyway have a look at his results and comments on it... http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/707awhp-620awt...ump-gas-431072/

nice work let us know how u get on i still havent got my head around setting it up, i dont know how to adjust the settings to detect knock but not detect other random noise like it seems to be doing, ive had it for over a year and never used it due to this, i got a big tune on monday and would like to set it up to make life easier when the tuner is tuning it. Ill go for a run tommorow and see what readings i get on current tune (560hp at wheels).

i can vouch for npc clutches being easy to drive, i have had os giken clutches which are annoying to take off smoothly and the npc i have is absolutely awesome to drive around town, its not too heavy on the pedal but is running over 420kw at wheels without any issues, definately worth the dollars, good luck with the sale mate

i havent organised anything myself as the car will be undergoing work in a couple of weeks and trying to get this yellow sticker off, i dont know how long the conversion will take me but should be right for mid to late november, i can always bring the gto if the stagea aint going anyway.

one of the autech chassis strengtheners from memory is a brace under the tailshaft tunnel, its removal and goes straight on a series 1 stagea, i know this because mine has got one. as mike said just put every loom from the autech in the s1 and then u know its the same alot of work ahead, taking the dash etc out is a pain in the arse but something that just takes time. good luck mate and give me a buzz if have any issues along the way

hey mark and duncan is that an Accusump i spot in those pics of the engine bay? if it is have u used one before and are they a genuine alternative to a drysump for saving our engines on the track? anyone else have any input on how good they are and whether they are worth buying for track car? i honestly dont want to go dry sump ive spent enough as it is so no suggestions to go that way. sorry for the mini hijack too and the car is lookin like its coming together slowly but nicely also ill be doing the wiring loom soon myself so any info or tips on doing a new loom please send them my way or post them up if u dont mind. I think 90% of it will be ok as im starting from scratch its the attessa stuff and deleting the abs part im not 100% sure on.