unique1

hey im soon to try and wire a r32 gtr engine loom into my rs4 stagea and wondering if anyone on here has done it before? Any info appreciated as i attempted this years ago and gave up but now i want to convert to a power fc with the new engine and need the gtr loom wired up. cheers

come on Duncan we need more updates How come people remove the engine fan and replace with a thermo fan? is it because the engine fan wont fit due to large radiator or is the thermo actually better than the engine fan and a worthwhile upgrade? I would rather a thermo fan as the engine fan looks shocking and takes up too much room at the front of the motor, but if the engine fan is gonna do a better job then i will just keep it as is.

sorry to hear Neil it sounds like my sort of luck to be honest I bought mine in mid 04, took 6 months to do engine conversion drove it for 1 week and motor cracked a piston, rebuilt it after a year of waiting for machine work and parts, drove it for 1000km run in, did a basic tune on 11psi and drove it for 20km and dropped oil pressure pulled the motor and block was cracked, rebuilt with a new n1 block, did 1000km run in again, then drove another 300km and melted pistons, rebuilt again and machining was wrong so i needed custom pistons, then did run in and tune and have drivin about 1000km since and still good finally after almost 4 years, its been the most frustrating time over these years and cost me a fortune but well worth it hang in there Neil it wont be long now and u will be enjoying it

thanks Scooby the spacer idea is a good one too, if the turbos have to come off i'd be pulling the motor from the bay for sure i hate workin on those twins in the car lol, i currently run a single on my other rb26 and damn its great to work on, but this new engine is gonna be for a streeter so i want it to look stock if i can unless i can get the single turbo past the tech section which im waiting for a reply on as i type this, time will tell which way i go on this one

Cheers James just want i wanted to hear save me some more money instead of going braided

hey im stuck between going single turbo or twins at the moment on a rb26/30 and the motor is starting to come together slowly, im just wondering with the use of low mount twins like the 2860r-7s can i reuse any of the stock water and oil lines at all with abit of modifying and bending? If not ill have to make up some more from scratch using the same sort of tube, im trying to avoid any use of braided lines as its too pricey and this is a budget setup. anyone been able to modify the stock lines to work at all? i realise the oil drains will be different but thats no big deal, its more the oil feed and water feeds im thinking about...

my stroker setup with bolt ons has cost a hell of alot more than your estimates and then the gearbox on top of that rb30 isnt a straight fit i know but for the $$$ its worth paying abit for fitting adaptors etc then paying the stupid costs of japanese branded parts when u dont really get any benefits unless u wanna go over 700hp at the wheels then the billet crank etc makes it worth while. just my personal opinion after going all out on a stroker kit and regretting it now i dont wanna run a laggy arse turbo i could have got away with spending 1/2 the money i did and have as good results.

ive done it and its pretty simple ask away and ill answer best i can, i did it 3 years ago now so my memory isnt the best to list everything off the top of my head i ran an aftermarket ecu in mine (autronic) so wiring wasnt as difficult as the stock gtr loom. Im about to put a pfc in the car so i have to wire in the gtr loom myself and i remember trying it a while ago and it was a real headf**k lol, if u happen to find anything out post it here and ill be happy to help u anyway i can on the mechanical side of things. ive also done the r32 gtr diff/axles/unis into rs4 stagea too and its also a long winded process. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...amp;hl=gtr+diff the attessa ecu in the rear of the car requires a tps signal from the engine ecu loom

it not difficult at all just requires the fitment of the 4wd adaptor kit available from someone like www.proengines.com.au he even does complete ready to go bottom ends ready to bolt your head on for $7000 (just checked i think 4wd adaptor is extra), a hks stroker kit is gonna cost a hell of alot more overall i can assure u of that. n1 block 2k hks kit 7k machining 1k jun oil pump 1k bearings $250 seals and core plugs etc $150 or so main studs $300 head studs $300 assembly ??? rb30 the 4wd adaptor kit is $900 plus fitting, probably a couple of 100 bucks (this comes with suitable oil pickup so no need for sump mods) block $100 pistons and rods $2100 main and head studs $600 machining $1000 jun oil pump $1000 or $400 for n1 pump assembly ??? once the adaptor is fitted u need another front tensioner installed which is a simple job and the head stud holes have to be tapped bigger to suit rb26 studs (from 11mm - 12mm from memory). best to read the rb30 into gtr thread to get an idea, its definately not as bad as some people make out, and sure as hell saves alot of money over the japanese kits with the same, if not better results. im building a rb30/26 at the moment with stock internals as well as keeping my jun 2.7L stroker engine and gonna compare the 2 once and for all The jun stroker kit is 10k alone (crank, rods and pistons only) so thats definately not cheap. personally i'd be going rb26/30 with a set of 2860r-5 turbos and limit power to around 500hp at wheels and then u wont need to upgrade the gearbox which isnt cheap either. I run a ppg 1st-5th straight cut dogbox and its not an ideal street friendly option and maintainence costs are on going. All this is also in a stagea as well and im pulling the stroker motor out to go in a track gtr and the 26/30 is gonna be the daily runabout

speaking from experience in doing a stroker rb26, dont bother for the money i'd choose a rb30 bottom end built with a 4wd sump adaptor and will cost a whole lot less than the hks kit for sure and provide better midrange power.

hey Gav when is your car pulling hard with the 2.8L capacity with the -5s? im building another engine (26/30) and unsure if i want single or twins yet, but if i go twins its out of the 2860 range of turbos, either -5s or -7s, im aiming for outright response and limit power to 450rwhp maximum, would u reccomend the -5s or stay with -7s if i dont plan on going over 500hp? you dont happen to have a graph comparing your -5s with simons t04z setup to compare?

awesome build thread good to see shes up and running finally hope u enjoy the ecu as well Dave, luckily u got the best Haltech tuner in the business to play around with it, im sure u will get some great results

just a note 260rs wheel fitment is alot different on the rear compared to normal rs4 stageas. i have 17x9+30 on front and rear and the rears are perfect fit sticking out around a couple of mm and the fronts are in the gaurds abit due to running 3 degrees negative camber, if i run normal camber they are spot on as well. I think +20 on the front and rear will stick out too far unless u wanna run heaps of camber and flare the gaurds alot.

ill have to give it a try, i think it would be abit of luck that both mine and mates run hot in the same cylinders and the whole time clyinder 6 runs the hottest except on full boost, thanks for the info

they are innovate dataloggers (tc4's) and RTD thermocouples, it says nothing in the instructions about having to calibrate them, how would u go about doing that? put them under the same temp condition and measure the temp readings i assume? whats the best thing to use to calibrate them then.

slightly off topic but from my personal experience on my rb26 and a mates one as well with totally different setups (both over 500rwhp) we both run individual egts in each runner and they show 5 and 6 the hottest off boost and cruising but on boost 3 and 4 are hottest by a fair amount, even with 4% more fuel in 4 mine is still getting 20-30 degrees hotter than all the other cylinders. We both have had our injectors tested and they are spot on as well, im interested to see proof of no 6 cylinder running the hottest on boost as everyone seems to say?

thats great results for a 3076r on 16psi (i think thats what the dyno graph says?), any ideas what the turbo is capable on pump fuel and around 20-22psi? might be something i will put on my new rb30det setup as im only gonna be chasing low 400hp mark or so on stock internals and aiming for response more than anything.

Hey Al what turbo are you running, i cant find your engine specs in the rb30 dyno thread?

s1 grille and lights > s2 grille and lights i might be keen aswell depending on costs

Hi Ian, so sorry to hear mate there seems to be alot of these being damaged and written off lately its a worry Glad your not hurt though and good luck with whatever happens in the future and dont forget to hang around on the forums still

so which turbo did u run r31nismoid on your r31? the 3076r or 3040r?

25 head on a rb30 block time more like it cheap as chips to do and help lug around the extra weight of the stagea, u can bolt all your 25 head stuff on a rb30e block and make 400hp all day long with the right supporting mods.

my mate has a gt3040 0.82 on a 7m engine (3L single turbo) stock cams/internals and making 440rwhp on 19psi on pump fuel, still got some in it but hes worried the motor wont cope. Pulls hard from low rpm all the way to 7000rpm and making max power at 7k so he could rev it more and make more power. The 7m isnt known for good flow as well so on a rb30det it should work a treat. The owner reckons full boost (19psi) by 3300rpm or so.

Item: haltech coilpacks Age: new Condition: new Price: $350 delivered To Fit: (What car) any car Location: Perth Contact: PM for details Comments: these coilpacks are the ls1 style haltech coilpacks suitable for big boost applications, cost $650 new and ive never used them

sorry wrong section please delete