unique1

^correct, i would be taping them from the inside as some of them can be bloody tight, a couple i did recently i had to heat the cover up with an oxy torch to get it out, then we use a suitable socket on the inside and tap it out, dont twist them out from the top i've seen covers damaged due to the fitting being so tight and them forcing it.

nice results, how much timing are u putting in at fullboost? what octane fuel is it using?

who is tuning this beast in Perth?

Item: r32 gtr Mines ecu Age: unsure Condition: good working order Price: $200 plus postage (around $25 to anywhere in oz) To Fit: (What car) r32 gtr or any rb26 powered vehicles Location: Perth, WA Contact: PM for details Comments: perfect working order Mines ecu for a r32 gtr, selling due to parting out the car. i will post anywhere in Oz.

is this the metal box thing thats similiar looking to the attessa ecu etc in size?

i went down and checked this event out with a mate and damn it looks like awesome fun, im building a 32 gtr up for track and was interested in joining up but speaking to a few drivers and costs seem to go through the roof doing these sorts of events, they all said dont bother unless u run a dry sump for a start I could get the car specs as good as most, but the ongoing costs seem to be alot more than i imagined. The late model rx7s including yours kingscorp are the best base for this type of track work going by what i saw on the weekend, they seem to be soo competitive in all motorsport to be honest, the little rotors dont get enough credit in my book. They also sound awesome in person definately one of my favourites. Wade's r32 is right up there too, we left before the last race, who ended up winning that one in your class scorp?

come on its got so much torque he can tow a trailer around with a couple of 44 gallon drums of sunoco on board for refills every half hour...

lol

i vote for ppg dogbox anyday of the week if u plan on serious driving at the drags i slam gears as fast and hard as possible and it shifts like butter and definately engages a shitload faster than any synchro box could. Its currently behind a 420rwkw 2.7l and 1750kg (low 11 second down 1/4 mile) car too so its got some strength with my driving techniques lol pricey but the best mod i have done to the setup by far, the car isnt a daily though so dont expect to drive it on the street everyday unless u like rebuilding them often. Its good to drive one u learn to downshift and upshifts are smooth even when shifting ultra slow, the whine of the straight cuts gets on ya nerves and creates unwanted attention though. I could like with it daily if it wasnt soo noisy and didnt have to replace parts within such short intervals. I think once u drive a dog box u will never wanna use another synchro box in a powerful car, u will realise how long the shifts take just waiting for the sychros to line up.

Neil where abouts is the rust? on the chassis? surely its fixable to comply it, or is it that bad u wouldnt bother?

i think u will find the 15 is the plug gap (1.5mm) the heat range is 6 from memory for a v6 commo http://cgi.ebay.com.au/COMMODORE-VC-VK-VP-...1QQcmdZViewItem

i bet the spark plugs with a heat range of 9 wouldn't be good for daily use

PM replied

Item: GM Ls1 coilpacks x 6 Age: brand new Condition: perfect Price: $250 (cost me $650 new) To Fit: (What car) any Location: Perth, WA Contact: pm for details Comments: these are brand new with wiring plugs to suit, they are reccomended for big power setups using Haltech, Autronic and Vipec ecu's, plus many others as well, i bought them and now no longer need them, they cost me $650 (i have the receipt here) and they have never been used. http://www.vi-pec.com/page_files/IgnitionParts.htm They are the ones at the bottom of the list http://www.haltech.com.au/igncoils.htm the top ones on the list

over 2 bar boost on pump fuel? the timing must be damn conservative to run that boost

the question on is it on pump fuel is a good one, surely a 1000hp rb wouldnt be on pump fuel would it?

nice work Trent, i suppose u used the good old gizmo kmon to tune this beast? i still havent got around to sorting my K-mon i bought off you, i think u need to come to Perth and sort it for me and the comments on dogboxes and street driving from people, i think they drive rather nice i think 99% of comments are from hear say and not from experience, my dogbox is fine to drive around, its straight cut though which is more of a pain that the actual driving technique. I find it easy once u learn to downshift correctly, the upshifts are smooth and slow if u want or super fast if u wanna slam gears

thanks for the info, i went to the local track yesterday and had a look at some other cars racing and talking to the drivers and they reckon they are using around 17L in the 8 lap races so a 30L tank is probably the best size for me, i dont want too big or i might as well leave the stock tank arangement in. My other car with the engine im gonna use is running twin Goss intank pumps feeding to a 3L surge tank and then 2 x 044's into a single 1/2' fuel line to the motor. The 2 goss pumps would still be ok on the low pressure side of the surge tank even if not submersed (sp?) in fuel? I might use them instead of the single 040 as mentioned. Running the lift pump is the same as running intank pumps setup wise isnt it? just need small low pressure pumps to feed surge tank and then the 044s for the engine supply is ok? it wont suck the surge tank dry will it if its been ok in the current car and running same power? cheers

what are u guys doing with the g sensor thats usually under the console? can u move it or wont it work correctly anymore? im thinking of throwing mine under the dash area to get it out the way (obviously mount it level and straight as it is now), do u think this would cause any issues?

Hey guys i dont know if this is the correct section, but im building up a track gtr and planning on circuit work on semi slicks and drifting as well with another engine setup and rwd, the motor is pretty serious (over 550rwhp) so i need a fair bit of fuel. I am gonna go straight for a fuel cell instead of using the original tank setup. I doubt ill be competing in door to door action in the near future, its more a time attack setup so not going to be on track for extended periods of time. I might do dutton rally etc in the future though. Now the question is what size to go for, i want a smaller one if possible but dont want to be refueling every 5 min because its too small? Im thinking if i go small enough i dont need a surge tank as well or should u always run a surge tank setup? is it best to get one with a sender setup in it as well? at the moment im leaning towards a 30L one, so i assume a surge tank is a definate yes for this size? If running a surge tank do u just run an external lift pump (bosch 040?) and then that feeds the surge tank (couple of litres in size?) then to my 2 bosch 044 pumps then to the motor? any info on peoples setups in race cars appreciated

i like the rb30 bottom end the best because it only cost me $50 for it, $100 to deck, clean and tap the oil drain and turbo feed holes and its good to go, if it blows up who cares ill buy another one

cheers fellas sounds like the easiest option

how much did the new oem set of rb25 headbolts set u back in the end?

my engine is exact same setup, one tensioner and one idler, the belt is also pretty damn tight to get on even with tensioner at the loose setting so i agree on the tensioner move to the right abit to give it a fraction of slack.

lol Simon, he has never done a power tune on my car only a run in tune on the first motor years ago everyone knows he wont touch an autronic ecu hence why i never used him in the end.