unique1

Unfortunately i havent, just my own personal car with the straight cut set.

I run the ppg 1st-5th straight cut dog gearset in a gtr box and its a great piece of gear, drives nicely and can be street drivin once you get the hang of rev matching on downshifts. The upshifts are easy and never crunch if u let it slide in slowly or jam it as hard as possible. I never realised how slow a synchro box was to shift until i drove the dog set, its just on another level and worth every cent. Im running 560hp at wheels in a 1700kg stagea and done heaps of rev limiter launches and never had any breakages, plus heaps of slamming gears and all is perfect. Only issue with the straight cut option is the noise is pretty loud if its doing any street duties, but you are thinking helical so thats no drama.

yer as mentioned its a rb26 with 2.7L jun kit and hks t04z, 18psi is very low boost for the setup, the motor is in another car now and will be tested to its full potential very soon if i get off my arse and finish it The new setup is rather disapointing for me (slow) but its all legal and engineer approval is 99% sorted and it will become my daily driver. Its now got a new engine combo, rb26 head, rb30 bottom end, gt3076r, stock gtr 5 speed, etc, im thinking a gt35 is on the cards because it needs more power to push the heavy thing along.

ive done an 11.33@ 124mph on low boost (18psi, pump fuel) setting in my stagea, thats full weight too at 1720kg or so

5th gear on the gtr box is a 0.752 ratio, unsure on rb25 or 20 boxes. going by this websites calculator for speed/rpm and gear ratios... http://www.osella.com.au/gear-ratios.htm if i put in my current ratio and tyre height etc with the 0.752 ratio and 4.3 diff it says 2682rpm at 100kmh if i put in the other ratios these are the results at 100kmh... 4.3 = 2682rpm 4.11 = 2564rpm 3.9 = 2433rpm 3.7 = 2308rpm 3.5 = 2183rpm 3.2 = 1996rpm thats with 235/45/r17 tyres (643mm tyre diameter)

Brendan u can get an internal gate version, CUBES is running one on his 25/30 setup and it bolts straight onto the stock manifold as well, saves money on manifold and wastegate too.

nice work Brendan, she come along nicely since u bought it all that time ago I thought u were keeping it basic mod wise and had a budget, sounds like u got the bug and its bitten hard lol i have a gt3076r on my new engine (rb30 bottom end, 26 head) and it spools soo damn quick its not funny, i wouldnt go any smaller personally, i am used to a t04z though so yer, i still am not happy with the current power levels mine is making, but i have a few similiar issues with blocked cat etc and the 3076r should go 400rwhp pretty easily if u want to push it. Dont go too small or u might as well keep what u currently have! I wished i went the gt3582r now on mine, the early spool is rather annoying as cruising around town and its whistling and spooling at 2000rpm, not my cup of tea. I would think it would be a perfect match for the rb25 engine though, i just hope the old auto can handle it thats the main hold back for you i think. good luck with it mate

i got rb26/30 running stock gtr box and 4.3 diff ratio and im getting 2600rpm on 100kmh in 5th gear. It seems to be too many revs for the cruising speed and i would prefer it lower, somewhere in the 2000rpm range would be nice, its got a baby turbo (3076r) so boost response is not a problem at any rpm. how do i work out what ratio i need to acheive 2000rpm in 5th?

no i had spark blowout due to the autronic still having the dwell board installed, new ecu is being sorted now

jun 2.7L hks t04z 0.81 on trust s/s manifold 436rwkw on 18psi (98 pump fuel) 451rwkw on 22psi (98 pump fuel) spark issues on 22psi so didnt push to rpm limiter (backed off at 7500rpm or so), more to come very soon with new ignition setup

my mates soarer made 440rwhp on dyno with one walbro 255 and no problem in past 3 years. In america the yanks (mostly supras and gto's, etc) absolutely love the walbros and dont even bother with bosch, these are big hp and big budget cars, they use like 4 walbros intank rather than going bosch or anything else. These guys run big workshops and swear by walbro on every car so why the bad name around here? Dont buy cheap ebay copy shit ones and you might be suprised

the rear offset is pretty aggressive compared to fronts, i think it shall tuck the tyre in the gaurd but the rim will stick out, hence the reason for 235 tyres so they stretch abit, this is a pic of the rear but its not low at all so when lower it will tuck in abit more. I have the car on the brick trying to get it to lower down abit but it didnt do much. the front rim on in the pic is just a 33 gtr rim. I wont be driving the car with these on for a while yet so cant comment on scrubing etc until i test them.

side skirts only sitting on hence the gap at the front, just a quick test fit of the rims from my other car and now i think they are staying for good 18x10+20 offsets with 235 tyres, they sit real nice actually, the rear needs to be lowered abit more before i post a pic of that.

honestly i dont think a comparision from two different dynos with possible different ramp rates, air temps, etc is a true indication of a proper comparision, these two engines are alot different as well with cam choice etc so that doesnt help. The only way to compare is back to back turbo swap on the same engine with the same dyno and same air temps then it might be realistic. There is enough variation in readouts from one dd dyno to another dd dyno, so comparing to a hub dyno as well is pretty hard to get accurate.

come on i was carrying an extra 400kg than you too so i think the stroker is fair Pity u never took me for a spin to compare it though, looks like i'll have to wait a while

how are u guys going about lexan on the rear window, do you buy it already shaped etc or make it to suit? it looks like a rather tight curve on the outer edges to form up, im gonna have to pull windows for cage work now so if lexan isnt too hard i might as well go for it. Any info appreciated from Duncan or even Risking (sorry i dont know your name mate?). Any idea of cost for the sheeting to do it? any special requirements for thickness, type of lexan? i dont want it scratching up within a week so something half decent is prefered. Also duncan have u got a pic of the lower arms for the hicas removal on the side that bolts to the cradle? i cant seem to see exactly how u have made them up for a bolt to go through. Im assuming a square box section is used and spaced off the cradle to allow the use of a nut and bolt? or is it threaded into the cradle. A pic or two would be most helpful if u get a chance, i been trying to suss it out for weeks how u have done it

Just a question to Risking about mentioning the weight differences. When u say a length of cds compared to chrome moly and its 0.5kg heavier, how long is a length? im also doing a r32 gtr and need a 6 point cage for ANDRA regulations, i was wondering how much extra weight would the same design cage add if it was done in steel compared to chrome moly? i added up something like 25m metres of tubing or so as a rough estimate, im joining into engine bay strut towers and cross in the roof and cross bar for harnesses etc on top of the usual 6 point setup needed. This is a fully stripped as light as possible track car so weight is important but if its only a 20kg difference or so overall then i'd just stick with steel, where as if its like 50kg+ then i might think abit more about which way to go. also what is the going rate per metre for chrome moly compared to cds? (material cost only not labour) sorry if its slightly offtopic to the original posters questions.

i run an rb26 with aftermarket ecu and the aac isnt even plugged in or workin and it idles perfectly

yer i think 20psi at 4000rpm is abit optimistic on a 2.6L but im sure a dyno graph will tell otherwise, mines a 2.7L and still more lag? i got bigger cams, better valves, etc as well, so it must be the manifold if anything. 370kw on 20psi seems abit low but with cams and a built motor?

my t04z makes an easy 420kw at wheels on 18psi conservative tune and 440kw on an more agressive pump fuel tune, full boost is around the 4300rpm mark or so on a 2.7l stroker and trust stainless manifold

so whats the benifits between using an ally oil cooler or proper copper fuel cooler or tranny cooler? any differences? i assume the fuel cooler is made for the high pressure side, they look like a copper tube in an S shape and fins around them. Ive even considered the moroso fuel cooler setup as well, but they are pricey compared to other options.

i also have the 3076r and the sound is awesome, sounds wayyyy better than my hks t04z on my other engine, not sure why but it does, sounds very jet like on spool up.

my car also had these issues running twin external 044s and 2 in tank pumps feeding the surge tank. Not too noisy until about 45 min into a drive on a hotday and the 044s would whine like crazy until it cooled down and then they are fine again. Im gonna look into the fuel cooler setups now, just wondering what sort of dimensions are these coolers u guys are using?

its not the clutch vacuum booster leaking is it? ive had the same noise before and the rubber diaprahm in the vacuum assist was split.

awesome write up mate, i think u have made vipec another sale, i have to purchase a new ecu soon and the v88 is lookin like a good option over the sm4 which getting info for them is like getting blood from a stone for some reason.