unique1

yep, overkill maybe when the last engine was destroyed i decided it was worth it, plus a knock detection setup and datalogger setup for afr's and egt's. The last repair kill was $4000 in parts and machine work, something i dont want happening anytime soon. i tell you what the egt differences between cylinder is rather interesting, definately something worthwhile for pushing the limits of an engine.

no worries, what sort of egt's are the safe limit to go up to? i run 6 egt probes (one in each runner) and wondering what the safe limit is temp wise?

what sort of afr's do u tune for on race fuel Paul? and how much extra timing is usually able to be added safely ontop of the pump fuel timing? i dont want the timing numbers (unless u want to post them) just wondering how much extra can be added with race fuel?

my hks t04z has gone 585rwhp (440rwkw from my calculation) on 18psi on 98 pump fuel on a very very low reading dyno, another brand new dyno dynamics one i went on recently read 40hp more (520hp to 560hp) on lower boost tune, so i reckon it would of been a bit over 600rwhp on any other dyno.

Hey i got the motor almost complete its running the 26 head and 30 block i notice the gtr balancer runs a much larger bolt to hold it on and the rb30 bolt is alot smaller. I do want to run the 26 balancer so do i just use the rb30 bolt and it will be ok? which washer do i use the 30 or 26 one? cheers

No worries, i still want them so let me know when u find out. I know they weigh 6kg each as i have 2 of em sitting right here next to me and i just weighed them. Thats including the big nut, washer, etc on the end which i also need so i can bolt them onto the hub. cheers mate

Hey Gareth any luck on postage costs to Perth for those front driveshafts (axles) i wanted? I got money ready to go, just PM me the details of exact amount and bank info

Ferrea also do them

no longer for sale for the moment, ill post the ad again if i change my mind the grille is from the non turbo stagea models

i did it at home so it was free, took a while trying to not get too much heat into the block and distorting the water pump area of the block, took a good hour or so as its alot of metal area to build up. We did a test run on a spare old rb26 block i got here to make sure it would stick and work ok As i said i wont say its 100% right until i see the motor run for a while, but looks like the best option available if u happen to get a s1 block.

Well i have sorted the problem most likely, ended up welding up the area and grinding it flat, looks good and should work ok, i have bolted idler on and its fine, havent fitted the belt yet or run it so not gonna say its worked until its actually running

innovative here also buy the xd16 standalone gauge kit it works great, it comes with the xd16 gauge and the lc1 wideband controller, can be datalogged which is a well needed feature http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/xd16.php

sounds pretty easy then, how many of the attessa wires need to be hooked up to work? who is ACA exactly? are they this company? http://www.aca-auto.com.au/ do u all run a small aftermarket fuse box for the stuff or inline fuses or skip fuses all together?

so when u guys remove the wiring looms and start from scratch do u cut the plugs needed off the looms and solder onto new basic loom u make up or do u use new plugs? whats needed to make it run and have basic essentials working... front and rear lights brake lights indicators battery alternator starter motor attessa ecu (how many wires need to be actually used to get this working?) standalone engine ecu power window switches fuel pumps ignition barrell aftermarket dash (stack or aem) windscreen wipers im removing hicas, air con, abs, dash gauges so dont need any of that stuff. anything im missing?

no worries mate , good luck with it

yer sorry that is a 2 pin i just checked... the gtr engine harness wiring diagram shows that one u mention with 1 pin (aqua with red stripe i think it is) doesnt go to anything from what i can tell http://www.importworkshop.com/files/manual..._GTR_manual.pdf page 790 its right in the top left hand side of the page with the 2 detonation sensors, looks like the wire anyway

it plugs into power steering rack in the engine bay if its the green looking round plug under the plenum area...

yes its as easy to put back in, no damage at all, no fluid will leak. I do this on my stagea (running gtr driveline) everytime i do dyno tuning and never caused an issue, i also drive around alot of the time with shaft removed and no problems.

thanks mate for the idea, i got something else lined up first i shall try, ill post info once i see if it works or not. I dont really wanna weld the block as its been decked now and internals are all installed, do u think anything would be effected if i heated up the idler area to braze it up?

just an update on the idler mounting on a s1 block. I just tried to torque the idler pulley onto the liqued metal flat spot and it distorted the flat spot so looks like ill have to sort something else out, mayybe i should of made the flat spot a fair bit bigger, ill update when i find a solution. Pity i spent money on the block decking it and acid bath etc, now its all assembled and i find this damn problem

it will take about 10 min max. You need 2x12mm spanners (preferably 1 of them a ring spanner as it might be tight). Also a 14mm socket or spanner to remove the clutch slave cylinder. just jack the drivers side of the car up and unbolt the 2 14mm bolts holding the slave cylinder on, then let that hang out of the way and undo the 4 12mm nuts and bolts on the front diff end of the front shaft. Remove all 4 bolts and pull the shaft away from the front diff and the front flange will drop down and then pull the shaft towards the front of car and the gearbox end will slide out. The gearbox hole is sealed so dont bother worrying about fluid leaking out or anything. Then rebolt the clutch slave cylinder back on and away u go.

come on strap that thing on i wanna see the response of it

yes the sump is the same as a gtr sump so the adaptor plate will fit fine

i have had something similiar happen to my rb27 in the past making big power (600hp+). Mine didnt melt any plugs but did some serious damage to 3 forged JUN pistons and the other 3 were starting to go as well, also on the intake sides only, cylinder 1, 3 and 6 from memory. My head looked the worst, have u got any pics of the chambers of those cylinders to see what its like? how much power u pushing at the time? send me a pm with pics if u like and i can let u know what was causing mine.

because i can nah its because i want a cheap setup for drifting and then i have the 560hp at wheels rb26 engine for proper track work and a ppg dogbox, i will swap between the 2 setups in the gtr im trying to save weight with the 30 setup as its gonna be limited to 400hp and it will pretty much be like a gtst setup drivetrain wise with this engine.