unique1

thanks guys great help, i got hold of some second hand rb25 bolts yesterday for $20 so ill see if they last, if not i dont care ill just get some new ones. the motors coming together nicely now, its a basic setup using a stock rb30 bottom end that i bought from a mate for $50, pity it was a s1 block The block has been recond as it has acl main bearings and NDC rod bearings, these are stamped with what i beleive to be the date they were made and it says 1998 so its still fairly old, hopefully they last a while. I had to tap the water feed for turbo, and drill out the oil feed line as well. I then got the machine shop to deck the block and wash it and tap the oil drain for turbo as well all for $100. I bought the front and rear crank seals for $16 for both, and a dayco timing belt for $31. I decided i didnt wanna tap the head bolt holes for rb26 bolts as the plan is to chuck in stock bottom ends if this blows up and i dont want to have to retap bolt holes everytime i buy a bottom end. So the plan is to use some stock rb25 headbolts as mentioned. I bought 2 mig welder tips for $1 each and used a 1.5mm one in one feed and the other one i welded the hole up and put in the other feed, worked perfect. I bought a low comp rb26 complete a while ago, i removed the head for this project and had the head decked and valve seats recut as the motor had been detonating and the seats were shocking condition. I chucked in some new valve stem seals and the valve guides looked brand new and were within specs. I am putting this into a 32 gtr running rwd (using the rb30 sump) and machined off front axles, plus either a gtr box with removed tf case or a rb25 box. I have bought a t3 flanged high mount manifold for $200 from a mate, its a steampipe design and looks great, definately got a bargain, it was used on a rb26 with gt3540 xr6 turbo internal gate turbo, so i need to add an external gate pipe on it or run an internal gate turbo. I think a gt3076r is my number one turbo option, i have the injectors, ecu, fuel system all sorted from my current setup and hoping to push around 400rwhp, the gtr is stripped out and should be at 1250kg or just under with the 4wd stuff removed and totally stripped.

i bought some and its rated to over 300C of heat from memory, the tensioner doesnt spin on the block surface, the part bolting onto the block is sitting hard on the face of the block and doesnt move. heres a pic of the tensioner spot setup with the liquid metal.... to hold the liquid in when its drying i used a bit of bluetack and made a little barrier to stop it running all over the place, put the tensioner stud in WITH oil on the threads and then just fill it up till its abit above flush and then let it go off for 20 min or so, wind the bolt out a fraction as to make sure its not stuck in and then file the surface flat using the waterpump surface etc as a guide to get it spot on. The bolt can then be takin out and the threads remain so u can screw it in and out without any problems.

jun high volume oil pump, gets around 27psi at idle and 80psi or so at full rpm when warm, i rev to 8500rpm usually. I also run the same oil as well (castrol edge 10w60)

i run 2 thou on a 420rwkw rb26, has made over 450rwkw on dyno and no dramas with bearings. Im using acl race series if that matters. Has been running for 8 months with no problems. I got this clearance reccomended to me by a well known rb26 specialist workshop so i trust them 100%

come on its a simple question, surely plenty of people know the specs or have the pdf manual handy to check? i am trying to assemble my motor today and tommorow and need info asap.

as per topic simple question, i havent got a rb25 workshop manual and need to know the torque specs for tightening rb25 headbolts (normal stock bolts)? cheers

whats involved in the cut and shut job? do u remove all the tf case internals except the main shaft and weld a plate on the side to cover the hole? do u still run auto tranny oil in the tf case section? any pics of it done?

sort of on the same subject, just wondering whats the best way to lower the engine to clear the bonnet, how do u go about modifying the mounts, is it a simple job or do i need to make new ones up? this is on a 2wd setup so i got abit of sump to x-member clearance to drop it down abit lower, im not keen on cutting the bonnet really. Spacers is always an option as its gonna be used for track anyway.

has anyone got the torque specs for stock rb25 head bolts? can these bolts be reused? how much is a new set if they cant? this is a super budget build for abit of fun, i dont care if it doesnt last ages, i dont wanna spend money if i dont have to, limiting the power to 400hp anyway so shouldnt be too much stress.

the tensioner is m10x1.5 and yes u go into the water gallery, worked out perfect from the pdf document measurements, possibly a touch tight but i can get the belt on so thats good. i bought a s1 block and managed to not notice it had the uneven cast face for the bottom idler so it didnt sit right, we used some liqued metal and made a flat face, worked great and was easy to do. just gotta send the block off for decking and tap the oil drain hole (we havent got a tap and drill bit that big so ill leave it to the machine shop). Then i can throw the parts back in and the head is all complete, just need some bigger shims and its almost ready to go. Need to decide on what turbo to go for now, i got a limit of 430rwhp or so and dont wanna run more than 18-19psi boost if possible. Its either gt3040r, gt3076r or gt3540r, decisions decisions

hey just a quick question regarding tapping the new tensioner position above the water pump. Do i need to tap a second little hole for the spring behind the tensioner to stop on or dont bother with it and take the spring off? cheers

hey Matt, sorry to post this here but i sent u an email about a week ago about these rear r33 gtr brembos i paid for , please reply to it asap, your PM box is full on here so i cant even contact u through PM's.

lookin good Duncan, just noticed the cut radiator support, is this just for easier engine removal? always wanted to chop it on mine but bit hesitant to do it. Do u just bolt in the peice u cut out when engine is installed?

+1 great vids, looks like awesome fun how much power has that rx7 got and what box is it running?

well i still got my yellow sticker and it aint coming off easy lol, looks like it wont be off until i put the stock rb26 in it and get engineering permits for it, so thats gonna be around mid to late september i would assume, hoping to hit the drags and get it in hpi magazine and then the motor is going in another car and the stagea will officially be the daily driver with stock power (for the moment hehe). so i can either go in the next 4-5 weeks or wait till later and come with the stock car, i would prefer one last cruise with the nice engine and box :laughing-smiley-014: trouble is with this engine and box i dont wanna leave the car parked unattended as its very very expensive and not something i wanna risk. Where have all the perth stagea people gone anyway, they seem to be not around the forums these days???

anyone keen on another perth stagea cruise in the near future? any ideas on what and where post your interest?

nice work mate, looks like a clean well thought out setup i see you have gone without abs aswell, makes the engine bay look alot cleaner without all the hardlines and unit in the corner.

well thats good to know, looks like the heater is going do u just block the two heater hoses or join them together on the motor? i know 100kg is a fair bit, i was thinking the stock seats were gonna be 25-30kg each like most cars, they are only 15kg each so not much saving when using a fixed back race seat (they are around 10kg from memory), ive pulled the carpet, parcel shelf, rear seat, and rear trims and its only 25kg so far, then i got spare tyre, boot trims, heater box, air con, stereo, strip the looms, body deadener in the car, hicas and lines, abs, etc. Pity the stock wheels are soo light so u will gain weight there if anything and brakes as u said. I am gonna be running a rwd setup half of the time with a rb26/30 with 30 sump, no front diff, no front axles, rb25 box or gtr box with cut off tf case so thats abit of weight there too. The proper track engine is a rb27 though and awd so ill gain weight but its got alot more power than the 30 motor. I wont be going a rollcage just yet until i see how i like the car and its initially only for local track days and drift practice events so no door to door action or anything serious

thanks Duncan, just about the power steering we have removed the belt on a mates supra and it was rock hard but if u remove the fluid from the rack and remove the lines its remarkebly light in comparision, its also a stripped out track car and weighs in at 1200kg but its 2wd, which might be the difference. are u guys retaining the heater so u can use the demister on wet days, or havent u ever found fogging up windows a problem? i am in the stage removing the air con unit behind the dash etc but im pretty sure that the a/c unit sits in between the blower fan and the heater box which is a problem, unless i make something to join the two. ive started pulling carpets, seats, interior trims etc out of the car and alot of the stuff is really light and makes me think removing 100kg+ from the car is gonna be harder than i imagined.

thanks for the replies... Adriano, good news on the crank seals then ill leave it and see how i go, ill try cbc for the seals i have bought seals from there before and they are cheap. Metal head gasket sounds ok then, you dont think a deck of the head is worth doing to make sure it seals ok? rb25 head bolts so i dont have to tap the bigger holes u mean? i thought about this and surely the locator pins on the head will keep it central and i doubt head will lift with around 400rwhp and low boost levels, i dont see the rb25s having any issues with head lift. Ill also be using a low km stock gtr pump from my first rb26 motor which had a genuine 30 000km on it that i bought 7 years ago and changed the pump to a jun one. I plan on keeping power to around 400hp as i said and under 7000rpm so i dont wanna risk using the old rb30 one, who knows how many km's its done. Dahtone Racing, the engine is a spare motor for drifting mainly and i have another rb26 fully built motor for proper track days, i just dont wanna risk the expensive track rb26 engine doing drifting. Bearings are fine, i'd say they are 90% perfect, if i pay to replace them and the motor lets go on the dyno after 5 min i'll be annoyed, i might not even wanna keep the rb30 as ive never drivin one so this is a test engine to see how it feels compared to the 26. The rings i will check today and make sure they are ok, if not ill replace them. cheers again for the advice

hey guys i got hold of a rb30 bottom end today (i have the rb26 head ready to go) and i didnt plan on pulling it down to be honest, but it didnt have the water feed for the turbo tapped (though its got the turbo oil feed tapped and the machined front for the tensioner) so i thought i better strip it and give it a clean up. This motor is for throwing in a stripped out track car and having some cheap fun, if it blows up i dont care ill buy another bottom end, so cheap is the aim of the game incase it does let go and i dont want too much invested in the bottom end 1. The core plugs on the block are all brand new except the rear one behind the auto flywheel so i need a core plug for that, the crank seals have looked to have eaten into the crank a tiny bit as well, is this a big problem or only if its eaten into it a real lot? how do u fix that if its an issue, and how can i tell if its too bad or not? 2. The big end bearings looked fairly good and are standard NDC ones, i think i wont bother changing these at all, and the main bearings are ACL std size as well which look good too so ill be leaving them as well. 3. Now i have a hks 1.2mm drag metal head gasket lying around from my other 26 motor builds and wouldnt mind using that instead of buying a new stock gasket, but do u think to use a metal gasket i need to get the block decked to make sure its flat? how much can u deck the 30 block before piston to valve clearance becomes an issue? whats a cheap rb26 gasket worth? 4. i also have to tap the head bolt holes for the rb26 bolts, is this possible to do by hand as i doubt u could get it out of square with the hole already there, or should i get it put onto a drill press and do it? 5. so i need to buy a large core plug (30mm i think they are), front and rear crank seals and possibly a stock 26 head gasket and oil restrictor, now whats these part usually cost each? can u get cheap generic seals instead of paying $55 for a nissan rear crank seal, etc? 6. has anyone found a rb30 workshop manual online as i need torque specs for the bottom end stuff (rod bolts, main bolts, etc)? sorry for the huge list of questions, hopefully other people have been there and done it to give me abit of advice

i think ill run abs and booster for the start and then look into the pedal box/no abs/no booster setup in the near future. still wouldnt mind a pic or two to see how they fit up

hey John thanks for the info on the power steering etc. I am interested in the pedal box now, im just wondering if anyone has any pics of them installed in skylines? will they sit nicely on the gtr floorpan or is alot of work required to make it fit right? Do u then not need a booster and the pedal still feels fairly easy to use? Im still stuck whether to use abs or not, i would love to remove it from the engine area but if its gonna be a downfall on the track without it then its worth keeping i suppose. Will the pedal box and no booster/abs work well or does it take alot of getting used to not locking up the brakes all the time?

Hey Duncan have u decided on running a brake booster or not? what about power steering, anyone tried running without it and taking all the lines off at the rack? my mate runs no p/s in his supra with all lines removed and its remarkebly smooth and soft to steer, im thinking the less accessories on/around the motor the better what about the abs setup, if its deleted then how do the lines run, can u run the stock brake master cylinder still?

thanks for the help fellas, i have been speaking to rb30dett in PM's and he is helping me along the way, thanks a heap mate