unique1

Thanks Dale, ill measure mine up and see how it compares, im about to send in the mod application forms and it should work out ok i hope, i have a mechanical engineer friend helping me along the way with mod approval so that helps, ive listed the single turbo conversion on the forms so thats the main worry if they accept it or not. The rest like engine/brakes/box conversion should be easy as they are all oem in the 260rs.

i think most of the stagea owners would prefer a picnic and fairybread sandwiches to be honest these should make ahg abit more fun when i dont have to worry about driving home on the tyres

hey guys i need a measurement from the floor to the highest point of the roofracks on the stagea with stock height suspension, the highest spot is in the middle of the car from memory i need this to fill out a mod application form, can someone do this for me please?

r33 gtst looked the same as gtr when i checked a mates car

lol, thanks i know $200 is cheap its just if the motor is gonna be pushed and shit itself later i dont want to waste $200 on bearings. My other engine is a no expense spared setup making over 600hp at wheels so this engine i want to do the opposite and buy the least amount of stuff to get half decent results, i want cheap fun and not have to worry about killing expensive bottom ends, this way i can throw another one in for bugger all

i did the same thing, though i snapped the axle itself, i converted to 32 gtr rear diff and axles/hubs/brakes have a read ofthis thread i did years ago on the conversion... (that was my old username) the gtr uni joints are massive compared to stagea ones, theres some measurement figures in that thread if u take a look... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/st...diff+conversion on the gtr size axles/unis ive ran a 11.3 at drags and done 20-30 8500rpm launches on them and not broken any yet the side which is custom length is also made at home by my old man and its lasted which is funny as i expected it to break years ago. Im currently putting over 550hp at wheels through the stock gtr gear.

nice work, looks very similiar to mine on similiar boost is 8000rpm the limit of the 2.8L kit or is this just a safe limit for the moment? is this on the 1.0 ex housing? fullboost at a fraction under 5000rpm looks like it, mine is making 18psi by 4300rpm i think from memory.

i noticed that in your first post, hence i asked what exactly do i do or what do i need to buy or what do u want to sell me? and a price would be good if u have got something for sale to fix it. I would like this asap as i have a track day soon and understeer sucks.

dont qoute me on this but i was told garrett turbos already have the restrictor built in and its only the hks ones that dont from what a local workshop told me.

theres plenty of blocks for sale around here its just this particular one is a rebuilt one with very low km's (also cheap as) and i just want something cheap initially to see how i like the rb30 setup compared to keeping it a rb26. Im not chasing big power either so it should be fine as long as its got the oil and water lines and tensioner area i was also trying to work out how much to do a freshen up on a rb30 with basic parts, im keeping stock internals, just need some rings, bearings and a hone and deck, any ideas how much bearings (i know acl race series are around $200 for the lot, anything cheaper and good?) and rings are worth for new stock stuff? hone and deck is under $200, and assembly i can do myself.

quick question, im lookin for a rb30 block and found some from r31 skylines, im just wondering do they all come with the provisions for oil and water feeds for turbos like the series 2 vl engines do? and also do they have the area for the tensioner to sit on? if they come with both s1 and s2 engines what years are the suitable blocks? i found one a fair way away and dont want to drive for an hour and a half to find out its the wrong one and i doubt the owner could tell me over the phone.

ill probably be keen again, i am doing another one early july as well with another group

good info, so whats needed exactly to fix this, i have found a fair bit of understeer when going hard into corners as if 4wd is coming on too early, but not sure if thats normal or not

mine seems fine so far just hooked straight upto my autronic tps signal, what signs does it show if its not correct?

its easy to get it in, in one lot, just need a mate to guide it in, its just a matter of not going like a bull at a gate and all is well putting the box back in under the car is a pain in the arse if u do them seperately, id rather do the motor out than the box lol, heavy suckers they are, i weighed mine last time and it was about 88kg from memory. This is all of course if u dont have a hoist to use, if u do have one then the box is easier with a transmission jack.

u need to hook the tps signal wire from the attessa ecu upto the tps signal on the ecu (tee in the wire), i dont know what wire is the one as i dont have a gtr but it will be in the front near the ecu and coming from a big plug that runs to the rear of the car, im sure someone on here will have the colour or a diagram to help

its also more expensive if you do it and its not legal haha, then its a nightmare as im finding out with this current setup

interesting info, so Bubba how come i have to get mod approval for a rb26 in a stagea (usually rb25) and you can get away with a hybrid 25/30 in a car thats supposed to have a rb20. Are u saying u didnt need to send in a mod approval application at all? I hate the WA inspection centres, they are sooo varied on rules depending who inspects it, surely an increase to 3L is gonna class it as modified like Cubes mentions. What car do u list the engine is out of then? a vl or a skyline gtr if it was a rb26/30? Dano4127, sorry mate im just stating whats been said on these forums in general on stock internals, i know very well RIPS can do it but i dont see many others with the same power on stock bits? Im talking reliable and gonna last as well, this is going to be my daily driver so i dont want to be replacing bottom ends every month because they let go. I tell u what, if i could run 450rwhp all day everyday on stock internals ill happily do it as long as its all legal to do the 26/30 conversion obviously The best results in Oz i've seen are from sky30 making 400kw at wheels on stock internals, i dont know if its still going but thats a huge effort if it is. i love the rb30 idea im keen as to do it, just a few hurdles in the meantime unfortunately i have to get over

Hey Shane, its not as easy as that. The rb30 is older (finished production late 80s from memory) than the car (1996) its in so therefore the conversion is illegal in WA (dunno about other states though) the only way of stating its an rb30 is possibly doing an emmision test which is something not even available to the general public in WA.

i was gonna start another topic but i've started too many already so ill just add a post in here... have any of you guys had the chance to go through a vehicle inspection with the rb30 bottom ends and what did they say about it being legal or not? do u think i should just grind the 30 number off the motor and restamp rb26 to keep it "legal"? this issue is the single biggest turn off of doing the conversion. Also the fact if i want over 400hp i really need rods and pistons, were as a rb26 only need a set of forgies and stock rods are good to go to 500hp.

great info, ill see what happens at the inspection with the current setup and that will determine which way i go later on with this new engine i want a single turbo rb30 or even rb30 with twins if i have to, but rb30's are illegal in a 1996 model car and single turbo might be an issue to, but ill find that out with my current setup. I also have 4wd so making it work with the 4wd sump is also a drama. The normal rb26 with some forgies and low mount 2860-7s or even -5's looks like the best "legal" option but not what i would really like

lol thanks, it gets the job done i save the detailing for the engine and car, its a home workshop so i gotta make the equipment look backyard spec as well it could be a prototype and could be a best seller for gtr owners if i painted it up shiny

this is the little trolley for the box to sit on i made, its basic and the box sits in the recesses section and its only about 10mm from the floor so its as low as u can get it, it handles the box weight no worries to. I even use it to sit the box on when its off the motor and i wanna move the box around in the garage. The wheels are cheap ones from Bunnings, nuthin special, the other week i sat the complete rb26 motor on it to wheel it into the shed and it didnt break lol. ive also made a special swivel setup on a trolley jack to help remove the gearbox from the motor while its in the car, it makes spinning the box around to clear the starter motor bulge on the trans tunnel really easy. As u can probably tell ive had alot of chances to remove rb26's and probably done the engine in and out 40 times or more and also the box in and out the car about 15-20 times on the garage floor, so making these little things helps when it comes around to doing it next time

single to4z on a rb30 hitting full boost at 5.5-6k rpm? thats not what ive read and experienced, on my own rb27 with the hks t04z, its making fullboost around 4300-4500rpm or so (that was on 22psi boost).

$750 ono