unique1

my jun pump creates about 75-80psi when warm at 8500rpm on a rb26

i have a set of the haltech high power coilpacks for sale brand new in boxes for $480 (cost $650 new), my tuner reccomended them for over 35psi boost and 700rwhp+, the tuner runs these on his 2jz drag car running high 8's down the track and making 700hp so they are the ones to go for. give me a PM if your keen

i have ridden in a few map sensor cars and as i said these changes from normal pfc to djetro are being done back to back on the same cars and they are perfectly fine, i couldnt pick the difference at all, i doubt everyone who has them would say they are perfect if they didnt idle, drove like shit etc, they get fuel economy and even some cases have picked up substantial power on bigger turbo setups. i just think the afm's are one more thing that causes trouble later on when they are getting old. I dont think Perth tuners would have installed any normal pfc's since the djetro come out from what ive seen around, they are obsolete (sp?) around here As i said PM 260rsstagea and he will say the same thing and he has gone from stock ecu to pfc djetro and loves it from what i was told just my 2c worth

that stagea is absolutely stunning i love it. Makes me wanna continue the r34 front end on mine again now (got some of the parts already), even though i've had second thoughts in the past. Any ideas what sideskirts and rear bumper they are? i love the vented gaurds too

i would go power fc djetro, piss those afm's off and it cleans up the engine bay, and no need for upgrade afm's later, it will run the same as they have been widely used in WA and all the tuners say runnin afm's has 0 advantage when doing back to back testing on same setups. PM 260rsstagea on the forums he just got one put in his 260rs and ask him his opinion on it

lol well said DRIFTT spot on the money

yes going single turbo is the best decision i ever made and makes the engine look heaps less cluttered, and doing dump pipes and oil lines etc while engine is in the car is like doing the spark plugs its so easy

ive made 585rwhp on 18psi with t04z 0.81 on a very very low reading dyno before (that dyno reads 45hp lower than brand new dyno dynamic dynos around here), motor isnt stock though so hard to compare back to back

sorrt turbs33 i didnt read it properly anyway copper plugs are fine, im running 560rwhp without an issue, and have been above 600rwhp with them, i'd rather replace plugs more often than use the iridiums

the -11 on the end of the sparkplug name means 1.1mm plug gap so i dont know how they are 0.8mm? thats my understanding of the -11 on the plug name anyway, unless someone else can say otherwise?

my mate has the same exhuast manifold as you and gt3540 .82 and with no boost controller (just gate pressure) he can only get as low as 23-24psi, not ideal in anyones language if u ask me, also heard a few others who have same issues and cant get boost down below that. One of the tuners told me they weld a wastegate pipe straight off the exhauast housing to solve it and it works fine.

im keen for a northern meet up first at maybe hillarys again? I should have the car running i hope, planning on installing the new gearbox this friday if i get the clutch back from being balanced etc.

hey guys im just after info on how to get my rb26 to idle up abit (drops to like 400rpm when stone cold) when cold starting, i have autronics ecu and no iac valve hooked up (output on ecu is used for boost controller, so no other outputs to hook up). it used to idle up fine with another tuner doing the work but the new tuner reckons only option is to hook up iac valve, is this true? i cant see how it used to run perfect when cold on my old engine setup and now it wont, though it did have stock cams instead of the big lift cams. any tuners have any ideas to help?

its fairly easy with gtr box and motor, ive done mine in and out around 20 times (thats not a lie either) and i will always go in with the box on rather than trying to do the box on the motor in the car, just get the front of the car up of the floor abit if u can and tilt the motor on a 45 degree angle with the box and put the rear of the box on a low low trolley with wheels under the car and slide the motor and back in towards the back of the car, then once its in enough get the trolley jack under the back of the box and get it up roughly in its position and drop the motor onto the mounts. just watch the plenum etc doesnt catch on the brake booster lines etc, and watch the front of the sump on the front swaybar/power steering lines. i found u dont have to tilt the engine and box back level like nismoid said above if u put the rear of the box on the trolley and wheel it in, it will level itself up, then use the trolley jack to get it up that last bit under the car.

yes having the gates belt too tight (dont have it tight like a banjo string) will make it whire like crazy, i have installed mine again about 10-15 times during maintainence since the first time i did it tight and i made it a touch looser and its silent, make sure its not too loose, but not soo tight it wont move and it will be fine. a gates timing belt should NOT be noisy, people saying they all do it, is wrong, u just gotta install it properly.

give me some time and i might have a go, my old man used to do fibreglass boats for a living so he knows his way around fibreglass and making moulds. Ive made a cold air duct for the stock bumper before and than turned out great, im sure the eyelids wouldnt be that difficult, ill post more when i have a better look at the car and some spare time.

SOLD-pending payment

pm replied

Item: brand new Haltech e11v2 ecu and wiring loom + 3 bar map sensor Age: unused in boxes Condition: brand new Price: $1800 for ecu and loom and map sensor $480 for haltech ls1 coilpacks To Fit: (What car) any car Location: Perth Contact: PM for further details Comments: The Haltech e11v2 is the latest ecu from Haltech and has all features you could ever need, i bought this a few months ago and planned on using it but i changed my tuner and therefore kept my old ecu setup as the new tuner was more familiar with it. I started to make the wiring loom for my rb26 engine so the loom is 50% finished with rb26 plugs on it, but these can easily be changed and wired into any car/motor combo. the ecu comes with a haltech 3 bar map sensor as well, i paid a total of $2340 for these parts brand new), im asking $1800 Coilpacks are brand new as well i made a bracket to mount these under coilpack cover on the rb26 and ill give that in the price if the buyer wants it, they are really good coils and made for high power application (i was planning on using these with 600rwhp+). These were $650 new. Im asking for $480 for these. i have reciepts for all these parts if the buyer wishes to see them as well.

i should be in i just gotta put some new tyres on the car before its drivable again.

even the roof racks look cool

yer but if u plan on ever workin on it i bet ya turbo removal takes longer than 30 min or getting those dump pipes off are great fun on stock low mounts. I know alot of u guys dont touch your cars and leave it to mechanics but if u do then u will understand if u seen a single turbo setup compared to twins. why would twin low mounts have better response? alot of these supposed good response lowmounts i see arnt making decent boost till over 4000rpm anyway which isnt so crash hot im sure a gt3040 would be as good and if not better considering it makes full boost under 3000rpm on my mates 3L. I think alot of you guys think single turbo = t88 or gt42 or t04z even and there is such thing as small single turbos that still make 500hp at wheels and come on boost early in the rpm. twins are good from a legal looking engine bay point of view, but i personally will never use twins again unless i want redicilous power and go twin high mount 3037s or something. this is just my opinion and everyone has there own so make what you will of it

that is the hottest stagea ive ever seen even nicer than any of the 34 front ones, im suprised u havent posted your wheel offsets yet? what offsets are they and what wheels are they? they look like Weds wheels abit. keep up the good work i like your style

i have a single on mine and if u plan on workin on the engine at all i would never ever ever put a set of twins on a rb26, they are a pain and a single turbo frees up sooo much room in the bay and simplifies things. My mate runs a gt3040r on a 3L 7m and makes 440hp at wheels on 19psi, and it is absolutely great for response, if i ever downgrade i would choose one of those for track work. external wastagates are also nice as an added bonus

yes Gary i had my 1000cc injectors flow tested and they were spot on apparently, i got them done by 2 different shops and they both said they were all the same, as i thought that was the issue with the last motor melting pistons my plenum is stock still, and on my first stock rb26 with 700cc injectors i remember no 4 piston was the one that cracked a ringland and that was on a totally different setup (different turbos, inj, intercooler, valves, etc). i think DCIEVE is on the money saying 6 is the hottest on cruise, light throttle and soon as boost is on its changing which are the hottest. How do all u guys know number 6 is the leanest? have u done seperate 02 sensors readings on each runner? or it only numbers from a flow bench? anyone else happen to have logged egt's on each runner before?