unique1

my old car

afm upgrade or change ecu intercooler sump extension (i wouldnt just use the baffle you needs a bigger capacity sump) ati or ross balancer braided fuel lines, turbo oil and water lines catch can ignition upgrade valve stem seals crank front rear oil seals cam seals thats all i can think of off the top of my head

hey mate i had a motor issue and decided to use another tuner and he hated autronic and reccomended haltech so i bought all the stuff (e11v2, ls1 coils, map sensor, loom, etc) and then changed my mind on the tuner and used another tuner who said he hates haltech and autronics is perfect and nothing wrong with it so i kept the autronics and cdi and msd cdi coil setup which made life easier for me not having to wire up the haltech Autronics tuners are hard to find especially in Perth, every tuner loves some ecus and hates the rest and the next tuner loves the opposite ecus and hates the ones the last tuner loved so its just personal opinions i suppose and they always would rather be using software they are more familiar with.

cool, i hope the defect inspectors dont notice the lumpy idle lol thats the main goal of the restrictor tell ya mates mate thanks for the help then

do u run mercury outboard coils on the racecars? do u plug them straight onto the plug as i thought they needed leads to use em? i run msd blaster cdi coils on my rb26 but im running autronics cdi and they fit under the coilpack cover and no leads as well, seems to work fine though im having spark issues randomly but thats something else i think.

hey guys an odd topic i know but i recently got a defect notice on my stagea its running a big cammed rb26 and t04z turbo, external gate, etc making 560rwhp and i have put a restrictor plate in the exhuast with 4 x 8mm holes in it and thats it to shut it up, so its like a 3/4" exhuast now it revs slow as and doesnt even boost up which is good, im just wondering if driving the car 40km to the inspection centre could cause damage to the engine due to the huge restriction i havent touched the boost levels or nothing i plan on cruising down slowly at about 100kmh all the way (around 2600rpm). any chance of doing bad things to the motor long term? i have 6 x egt sensors in each runner so ill check the temps it gets to tommorow, hopefully its nuthin drastic.

Item: Direct Clutch Twin Plate Age: less than 4000km Condition: perfect, 85% meat left Price: $900 To Fit: rb26 and rb25 Location: Perth, WA Contact: PM for details Comments: heavy duty twin plate clutch from Direct Clutch, done hardly any work and since upgraded, the clutch for sale had no issues at all handling 550awhp+ and never ever slipped once, Item: Haltech LS1 Coilpacks Age: brand new Condition: brand new unused Price: $450 (worth $650 new) To Fit: (What car) Location: Perth WA Contact: PM for details Comments: These are the Haltech branded ls1 coilpacks, suitable for big boost applications i sold my haltech ecu and no longer need these, they were never installed and are brand new items.

Hey dave (NYTSKY) i assume u are talking about Adam from JEM? if i had a good haltech tuner in perth i would have used the haltech for sure but the person i wanted to use refused to touch it and told me to keep the autronic i had in the car, i know of a tuner in perth who does haltech (not many haltech tuners in perth) and he swears by them but he has a few issues lately with bad tuning (his fault not the ecu) and i got cold feet and decided against using him, and the other haltech distributor told me they had a few issues with them as well in the past, but as i said if i had someone who could verify the car would run perfect i would of used it. In Perth finding a decent tuner is hard enough without having to find one who does Haltech as well. Jippa goto Ovaboost in Malaga, Mick is the owner/tuner and highly regarded in Perth, he is the best tuner i have dealt with and ive used alot of them, he is the EMS distributor. Tell him u got reccomended him by Brad with the rb26 stagea and he should look after you. He does my autronics tuning and he is a top bloke and listens to what u have to say and doesnt carry the usual "im better than everyone else" attitude ive dealt with in the past with other tuners. He does some killer cars as well, his own 2jz makes 900rwhp, a 900rwhp centura turbo, a 780rwhp rotor, a couple of 600hp rb26s, a 570hp rb25 and a few 480hp sr20s to name a few.

my engine is in a stagea weighing 1740kg + driver i ran 11.33 @ 125mph on my first drag meeting, havent had a chance since to take it back, the engine is on pump fuel and only running 18psi. I think i could go 11.1 on 18psi with this weight with some practice, in a 32 gtr (about 1500kg) im sure 10s would be a simple task, its only on 560rwhp (so the dyno says anyway). The t04z will max out around 650rwhp so i got plenty in it too.

Thats lookin awesome Dave, cant wait to see this thing in action hows the motor side of things coming along? You can PM me if u dont want to post any info in this thread. Love the dogbox too its a great peice of kit, i ran a 11.33 at 125mph on first drag outing on only 18psi boost in my heavy boat (1750kg + driver)

why Haltech? your best bet is to find a good tuner and then use the ecu they reccomend, i know a few tuners in Perth who refuse to touch Haltech and reckon the tune jumps around (afr's all over the place on back to back dyno runs), they also say its the shittest software ever to tune with, but thats personal opinion i suppose. Send me a PM with who u planning on using to tune if u have found someone and ill give u some advice who not to use If it was me i would use the EMS 8860 for $1600 i think it is, great ecu and great value, a few mates are running them and reccomend them 100% and i know a great tuner in Perth as well who does them is yours auto or manual i forgot now?

i reckon 10s on pump would be easy, i dunno about 140mph though

i agree that is 20k for a bottom end long motor only not an entire setup

my t04z comes on just under 4000rpm, its making fullboost at 4100rpm from memory, when the motor revs to 8500-9000rpm u have plenty of rpm range, i can launch off the line hard and it wont lag what so ever, maybe if you try and go at 2000rpm in 4th from a roll u get abit of lag but u just drop it back a gear and its gone. I've been in mates twin 2860r gtr and it felt really different, i'd rather the hard hitting single anyday of the year, but thats just my opinion im sure alot of forum users like the linear power of small twins. your best bet is to go for a ride in a couple of different gtr's with singles and twins and make up your own mind. The external gate noise is definately a good thing on single setups

if your talking a sequential box then i dont think 20k will even cover the box haha

no need to give us anything i dont mind helping fellow skyline owners, i have been given plenty of help over the years from some of the sau guys and i dont mind assisting when its needed if u need any other info im happy to help i have built a similiar setup over the last 3 years and ive had alot of good and bad experiences along the way lol, but its always worth it in the end. Seriously i wouldnt go too crazy with stroker cranks and hks turbos etc the extra power and torque u get for the price u pay isnt worth it in my opinion, i have both these mods (jun 2.7L kit and hks t04z) and other guys have spent 1/4 of my price and they almost making similiar power figures. If u wanna goto 700rwhp+ then the stroker kit is a good option but u dont see enough benefit at 600hp level to justify the costs imo. i'd be going n1 block, forged pistons and rods, acl race series bearings, acl head and main studs, oil restrictor mod, bigger sump, t04z, stock crank with collar, jun oil pump, tail wastegate, 1000cc injectors, sard twin entry fuel rail, sard fuel reg, bigger sump with baffles, good triple plate clutch and spend the extra money u save from using stock crank and buy a better gearset for the gearbox, its useless making 600hp if you have to baby into 3rd gear all the time and smashing boxes, its not fun and at 1k a go they aint worth replacing and then doing the same thing again. thats just my personal opinion from spending big bucks and learning a few lessons along the way

goto www.rhdjapan.com search "N1 engine block" and its $1931.65c US dollars (around $2013AU) delivered to Australia express postage. These are brand new from Japan, great value and u save abit in machining as well, it comes with core plugs all installed, u dont need to acid bath it and its a fresh 86mm bore. good luck with it mate

dont forget a gearbox upgrade as well, about 5-20k n1 block 2k if ya plan on running that power for long, air flow meters if your going pfc, i think 20k doesnt go as far as most of you guys think when building a complete setup, if u budget 20k u will end up spending 30k lol, everything always cost more than u allow for engine rebuild labour as well if your paying someone else to do it, then exhuast, intercooler piping, intake pipes, twin entry fuel rail, fuel pumps, surge tank, intank pump, timing belt, clutch, fuel reg etc the little things also add up, allow about 1k in braided lines by the time your done, core plugs for the motor, ignition upgrade (cdi/hks dli, etc). oh the joys of making big power lol

Hey Christian ill have to say no for the console for the 260rs, i thought it was a complete unit, thanks for the pics none the less.

i emailed last night about an hour after u posted and said ill take the console for 260rs if its the correct colour and in good cond, let me know if u havent got my email its from [email protected] thanks Christian

thanks Paul, when did they switch to the better ring sets? i bought my pistons around october last year do u think they were old or new ringsets? i might pull it down and redo them with another set if ive got the old versions

Hey Paul how do u rate the cp ring sets? i pulled my motor down after the initial dyno tune to check pistons etc and noticed a couple of the ring gaps had lined up with each other, any ideas why? i've not had any issues since reassembly but not something i want to happen if possible. I used to run Jun cosworth pistons and never had any issues, but since my bore is bigger than 87mm i cant use the jun ones anymore

i dont know what power fuel lines are a restriction but my stagea is now running a single 1/2' feed and 3/8' return, twin 044's, surge tank, twin intank pumps, dual feed rail and 1000cc injectors, the lines are worth about $150 so its worth doing and they are easy to make up as well. The braided lines and fittings are the pricey bits double flare is a good idea as mentioned, the double flare kits arnt too pricey from memory, the last thing u need is a fuel lines blowing off in the engine bay

looks awesome mate, im running same turbo and jun 2.7L kit, engine has made 585rwhp on 18psi on a very low reading dyno (reads 40hp less than another brand new dyno dynamics shootout one i have gone on) but its currently running 560hp (18psi also) at wheels with a very rich safe tune for the moment, plenty left in it, i can see yours definately going a touch over 650rwhp with the 0.81 depending on the dyno and more with the bigger housing. I have similiar mods except the hypertune plenum, but im getting one very very soon, be good to see how much of a difference the plenum makes. whos doing the tune work in Perth?