unique1

Hey Guilt a good mate of mine ran a gt3040 0.82 on a 7m (toyota 3l) and it made 440rwhp (329rwkw from my calculation) on 19psi boost (pump fuel) with stock head and cams etc, and i dont think 7m's would flow very well compared to the 25 head setup.

the stagea mob is the hardest group to organise anything because everyone is busy or already booked up or just doesnt drive, i dont think u will ever see the whole stagea WA group at a cruise ever.

i paid $1675 for seat and harness ($1250 for seat, $425 for harness), i got the standard size too. bit upset they only had blue harnesses as i really wanted black but thats life. Also i tried the evolution and it just felt unsupportive on the sides for me, but i only weigh 70kg so im not the typical aussie bloke size just gotta get a move on and get the car going so i can try it for real also just threw it on the scales for a weigh in and its 10kg, and omp seat rails are 3kg (stock gtr seat and rail is 15kg) so only a 2kg saving

well i got time today and headed out to the local Velo distributor and wanted the Apex model and needed it today so i can finish the rollcage and they said none in stock you will have to wait a week, so i decided to call in to a place selling Cobra and had a look, and the Sebring S was perfect fit and great support i had to have that one. I got it at a decent price with a Willans 6x6 harness as well so i can mount it up this weekend on the OMP rails and see where the intrusion bars can go thanks for all the advice everyone, i have to agree sitting in them is by far the best way to pick one.

sorry to those who i returned pm and sms's to this morning they are currently sold pending payment cheers

genuine coils which came off a holden ls1 motor. come as pictured $160 located in perth but will post for another $15

sorry guys - just to confirm these are in perth. dont think postage would be any more then $40 to anywhere over east. reason for sale: they wont fit on a toyota

RDA rear slotted and dimpled 32 vspec/33/34 gtr 300x22mm rotors (suit brembos). current width is 21.94 so basically brand new $200 will post at buyers expense pm if your interested

easiest and best option would be to sell your current built bottom end and buy a n1 block and hks kit and put it in once done, u would be crazy to pull yours apart and do everything again when u could just sell it as a bottom end ready to go.

im keen for a cruise at some stage and i might even come in the stagea for a change i got full engineering approval and pit inspection is booked for next tuesday so all going well the stagea will be soon a fulltime daily driver.

i run 1000cc sards and bigger cams than mentioned and idle is no problem at all. cold start idle was never the greatest but i aint running the idle air control valve any more and never really cared as it wasnt a daily driver. I had to keep the revs up a touch for 30 secs and then it idled itself fine, dont think this is the injectors fault though.

thanks for the heads up Marlin and beer baron, im stuck now abit because i only just purchased OMP fixed seat rails the other week because i bought a bride vios seat and then returned it due to me believing it was a fake china copy. So now i got the OMP seat rails that cost around $120 and just wondering if they will suit the other brands of seats? the velo apex is lookin the goods at the moment and once i get a chance to get off work early or have a day off i will go down and choose a seat this week i hope as my rolecage is waiting on it so i can work out the final height of the taxi bar for the harness points. I will try out alot of them too before i make a final decision as i want one that fits nice and tight if possible. Is it best to have the taxi bar level with the harness cut outs on the seat or a touch lower and wrap the harness over the seat a touch? i assume having the taxi bar higher than the seat harness cutouts is a big no no?

as per topic are 32 gtr axles the same lengths and identical to r33 gtr axles?

Hey Dave you are running an Autronic from memory? smc or sm2? Any pics of the crank trigger and where did u get the crank wheel and magnetic pickup from? i assume u run it off the balancer or did u go the flywheel option?

Even though im from WA i thought i would post in here... great ideas IronChef, as u said i personally found the number one way to realise that a normal drive can go from normal to trouble (near misses, etc) in a second is for it to happen to you. People can tell you till your blue in the face but u just say that only happens to other people who dont know how to drive, etc and think your invinsible. Only Then you will take notice and realise that it can happen to you and everytime after that u take a completly different attitude to doin risky stuff on the road. But until that near miss (though some dont get that warning and get hurt/die on the first bad situation they get into) most people dont think it will ever happen to them. This training will get people in that risky situation but in a safe environment and hopefully teach them before they get on public roads and therefore think before speeding/skids/burnouts/drifting on the road.

great responses so far, i am in Perth so trying all the different branded seats isnt that easy, i only really know of Go Gear and Revolution Racegear who have a decent range and Go Gear only do OMP and Revolution is the Cobra and Sparco range, thats my reason for not suggesting Velo or Racetech as im not sure of who in Perth has them available to sit in and buy. Any other Perth people have any reccomendations for places to buy from? The OMP Pista was right up there on the list for me but i did a search a few days ago on these forums and someone (Marlin i think?) suggested the material was terrible and wore out in a matter of months, i was hoping he would mention it is this thread once he sees it too. The bride option was also a thought but since the yen has gone down and theres plenty of local options at good prices ill stay away from the Jap stuff. I also dont want OBX or whatever i prefer respected and quality brands on my car and am prepared to pay if its gonna last and do a good job. I am assuming the obx stuff is china stuff which is something i also dont prefer on my car if possible (though i must admit the brake packages from d2/g4 are tempting for the price and how much success they have had on peoples cars lol) The other thing is i want to have the seat as low as possible to avoid head contact on the rollcage bars but im assuming all these would be as low as possible in design? I have already purchased a set of OMP fixed seat rails to use as well. keep the suggestions coming im gonna leave the choice for a week or so to get all possible suggestions and opinions.

Im looking into a race seat for my skyline track only car and its got to be a fixed back and fixed rail arrangement, i am using the car for circuit, drags and possibly abit of drift work too. I am wanting to limit the budget to around the $1200 mark if possible, ill go abit more if its worth it. Im also pretty slim so tighter seats are no problems either. I'd prefer a good quality one that wont wear through the fabric in 3 months time too. I am looking at brands like OMP, Sparco, Cobra, etc as they seem to be well known brands in race gear from what i can tell. i dont know whether its worth going one with the wings to protect the head as im thinking it might create a problem with visability when drifting, but if anyone has experience on the subject that would be even better. ok here are a few options i have found so far... Sparco Circuit Sparco PRO2000 Sparco EVO3 Cobra Sukuka Standard OMP Pista OMP WRC OMP GRIP anyone have any personal experience with these seats or anything they can reccomend (something around my budget) for a pretty serious track drivin car?

thats great help Mark, i got instructions with the kit on order of doing things so most is explained it was just at what stage to do those engine bay bars i was unsure of. I have that top of windscreen bar in the kit and it is bent on both ends which is a good idea by the sounds of it. The whole lot is CDS so mig is what im using as we just bought a brand new machine to do the job. Well i guess its a matter of getting stuck in now, over the easter weekend we will get a fair bit done i hope and then i can focus on some other stuff and get this thing running sorry for filling the thread with unrelated info to your project too!

Thanks for the reply and advice Mark, i have only got that clamp holding the pipe up so it doesnt fall over while its sitting there (unwelded at the moment), its naturally gonna sit in that position which is good. I am able to access around the hoop no probs, its just the front engine bay strut tower ones and a couple of extra bars i was thinking would be tough to access with the mig. so do u weld the front legs/hoop/rear sections in completely and then add in the bars from the front legs to the rear of the engine bay strut towers last of all? also a different question for you guys regarding the mounting of the drivers seat... did u have to remove that factory braced section that runs across the floor on both sides of the gearbox tunnel to lower the drivers seat lower? its gonna be right in the way i think as head room is not the greatest with a helmet on.

ive had my car not make anymore than 10psi boost due to a stuffed cat and soon as it was unbolted it went back up to 18psi, thats with a 3' magic cat too, blocked/restrictive cats can kill power bigtime, definately capable of gaining 60kw+ if the cat is blocked or just ultra restrictive.

no worries on the list you can start another thread if u like. i wrote it all down as i kept taking parts out, as i wanted to see how much i could get out of the car roughly before i could get a chance to take it to a weight bridge. Nice list of parts you have there too, how come you took the -5s off, i didnt think they were too laggy for normal track work, except maybe tight motorkana style events? good luck ill be keeping a close eye out on the thread for updates.

tamala park tip on marmion ave will give you a print out no worries for free, i have been there plenty of times weighing my cars and they dont mind at all.

stock gtr dump pipes wont clear the 30 block as there is a big overhang section on the top section of the block that Bubba also mentions. I have done the 30 into a 4wd car (stagea) and just used a 2wd sump for the time being and pulled the cv joins out of the front axles so i could bolt them back into the wheel hubs to hold the wheel bearings together. The dumps do need to be lengthened and not just 38mm added as they need to be spaced 38mm down but the dump flanges are on a 45 degree angle so u really need to make some new dumps. All the stock water and oil lines can be bent to fit on and the oil drains need to be remade and plumbed into the single oil drain on the 30 block. bonnet clearance is also an issue in a gtr from what ive read too. I also used a set of rb25 headbolts and that means u dont have to tap the 30 block headbolt holes bigger. Most of the stuff is easy and cheap if your willing to get stuck in and also have abit of mechanical knowledge but if your paying a workshop it might be rather pricey.

hey Paul how have u got the line locker hooked up, is it holding on the front brakes or deactivating the back brakes? i am trying to sort one for my car i have the solenoid etc but the front brakes have 2 individual lines (one for each side) coming from the master and im trying to work out how others are doing it. I dont want to have to hold the brake pedal on i want it holding the fronts on for me, but wondering if Teeing both front lines into the solenoid and then dividing the lines after solenoid is gonna work without any problems.

nice work i am in the same stages at the moment its abit of a struggle to keep long term interest in these projects but im sure it will be worth it in the end Are u keeping all the dash/heater etc installed or is it gonna get fully striped out? i weighed everything as i took it out of mine for anyones interest on weights of various things. These are also from a r32 gtr rear seat back 6.5kg rear seat bottom 6.5kg front ds seat 15kg front ps seat 15kg main carpet 6kg rear trims in back seat 5kg parcel shelf 1kg space saver wheel 15kg boot trims 6kg jack/toolkit 4kg boot brackets 3kg air con/heater/blower fan 10kg firewall sound deadener 4kg rear seat belts 2.5kg spoiler 7.5kg air con pump 8kg air con bracket 1.5kg charcoal canister/bracket 1kg washer bottle 1kg hicas pump, engine bay lines 7kg abs unit 8kg hicas undercar lines 2kg cooler piping/bov's 15kg fusebox loom 7kg front bumper support 6.5kg sound deadener 11kg dash loom 4kg fuel tank 13kg interior/attessa/boot loom 6kg rear wiper motor 2kg hicas pump rack 9kg front axles x 2 12kg sump/front diff 24kg air con condensor/lines 5kg battery 15kg wiring harnesses 8kg drum brake assemblies 5kg hicas ecu 2kg heater hoses 1kg bumper reinforcements 8kg transfer case 33kg oil cooler block 2kg gtr gearbox with tf case 89kg