unique1

come on boys its gotta be a 9" +30 at a minimum, they fill out the rears perfect without sticking out and fronts they sit in a fair bit, could do with a 10mm or 20mm spacer to look better. My new wheels going on very soon once i get the tyres fitted are 18x10 +20 and they fit perfect on fronts and sit out on the rears but i have a solution for that in the works so should look alright, pics to come

see the number before the duration, subtract that from 180 degrees and thats it. so for your cams its 112 degrees on inlet and exhuast

if you cant run any better than a 11.2 with the power u got now then adding more power is only gonna make it worse and harder to control, i reckon sort out the suspension and chassis with what its got and then add more power. Too many people think XXXhp and XXX weight = XXX time. once into the 10s and below its all about chassis setups and lots and lots of passes getting the setup right. That vid was pretty bad too, i think your drag strips dont look the best for prep work even for the current setup.

all the cars mentioned are perth cars too, but the problem is i think all but 2 of the setups are currently in bits or sold off

I dont think people are having a go at you. They are just trying to work out your plans and why you are choosing some of the ideas u mention. this is an idea of some costs... oil pump (n1 is a bad idea, either JUN or external is best option) = $2000 minimum clutch $2000 injectors $1000 oil cooler and lines $500+ external wastegates if they are needed $1200 for 2 manifolds $1000+ exhuast intercooler piping bigger sump ati balancer $800 from memory fuel regulator cams valve springs retainers plenum fuel pumps fuel lines lines and fittings for turbos coils ecu ignition setup wiring and on and on and on, and thats not even the bottom end yet, seriously these things add up really quick. then brakes and suspension, plus a heap of other things i havent thought of in the 20 secs ive thought about it unfortunately alot of people think a $50 rb30 block, $2000 for forged rods and pistons, and a $2000 t04z turbo is all u need for 600rwhp+

nah i got the gt3076r back on it and running 1 bar its great, got abit of boost creep at high rpm though which is annoying, gotta look into it and wind it up to 18psi or so i reckon its making around the 340rwhp at the moment at a guess, feels slow compared to the old motor but has great response (1 bar at 2800rpm) sounds like yours is just getting better and better, ive been there and done that and learnt with this one to stop spending and only buy the basics or it just ends up out of control

the blunt fact is if you even mention the word "budget" or "cheaper" or something along those lines when building a setup aiming for anything over 600hp at the wheels then its just not gonna go well because you cannot afford to skimp on parts or it will cost you a damn sight more in the long run and will not be capable because something is holding you back. If your gonna skimp then save on something external atleast as the last thing you want is needing to pull the motor down to change something you couldnt do right the first time. i think get rid of those turbos and buy something suitable for your goal and that will help a hell of alot to making the setup work better. dont forgot an ati balancer atleast on the parts list if you are gonna rev it over 7k honestly how much are you looking at spending on the entire setup?

do it once do it right, NPC twin plate all the way, awesome to drive and take off with and will handle anything pretty much, i would never go an Extreme/Exedy or os giken or anything over a NPC setup. Just over 2k but well worth it you wont be disapointed.

1100hp of turbos and stock shotpenned rods? i think either put some decent rods in it or change your turbo option to something smaller. I cant see everyones love for going twin turbos when its just twice as much stuff crammed in the bay and more money and the same end result as compared to a simple big single. I suppose saying twin turbo does sound better

theres a guy runnin a 2j in a 32 in Perth, WA, it was in a local magazine (Perth Street Car Magazine)

i ran a stock stagea radiator on a 600rwhp setup and never ever had issues on dyno or anything, only once did it get abit hot and that was doing a standstill burnout for a minute or two at full rpm on the spot which would heat up any radiator really. Dont waste your money and get another stock one second hand, plus they wont make it run any cooler as per the other post mentioning the thermostat controls the temps. I doubt u will get the thing hot enough unless you are doing serious track work at high rpm, etc.

i run a gt3076r on a stock internal 30 (refreshed) and its making boost at ~2000rpm and makes 1 bar (current boost setting) at 2800rpm, dont choke it too much it will just be a slug at anything over 4000rpm or so. I put stock 26 twins back on the same motor and it was absolutely shocking and would struggle to rev out over 4500rpm, it was very very very bad to drive and was pretty much on boost just cruisin at 80kmh. The 3076r is the smallest turbo i would personally use, there is no way anyone could say its too laggy.

the red line i added is a rb27 with t04z on 22psi and pump fuel and only revved out to 6800rpm roughly on that run (misfiring above that so we called it quits), usual redline is 9000-9500rpm. This dyno reads very low too compared to some of those numbers on there

lol, yer the vl one was an option but considering new 26 ones are only 100 bucks its not worth the risk considering the stuffing around to change it. tuned the motor last night on the road and its going strong as

the rb30 adaptor double threaded thing is $9 brand new from nissan i bought one the other day

i wouldnt be using rb26 torque settings on rb30 bolts, they are different sizes from memory. I have a vl commodore workshop manual in the shed ill grab it tommorow and post the specs up for the rb30 specific stuff unless someone else beats me to it. If your using rb26 headbolts then use the 26 torque specs for them, but main bolts and rod bolts i would definately use the rb30 specs.

thanks Bubba, i ended up buying a new 26 pump from Nissan for $100 bucks, cheap for a genuine nissan part for a change Cars all finished ready for start up tommorow on the new motor

hey guys i finished the rebuild of my 26/30 setup and put the coolant in ready to start the motor and the bloody water pump (second hand rb26 one from another motor that was fine previously) is leaking from the hole underneath so the seal has gone. I grabbed the spare 26 pump i have and its also leaking so im lookin at a new pump now. Can i just use a rb30 vl water pump? im keeping the revlimit to the 7000rpm mark so its not gonna be revving its head off and im sure a generic vl one is gonna be easier and cheaper to get hold of. I have a spare vl one here as well but the impellar does look a fair different design to the rb26 one. How many of you guys are running a rb30 water pump on the twin cam motors? and any issues? anyone know what a new genuine rb26 pump is worth and a rb30 one?

gtr all the way, pull the shaft on a gtr if ya want some rwd action, put the front shaft back in and realise just how much power you are missing out on in 2wd. I would never consider 2wd for the power you have unless your running slicks at drags or something. The box will need to be changed, thats the main problem, ive never had an issue with same power (high 500s at wheels) from any other driveline parts.

i run 6 egts and 2 dataloggers setup to log them and it cost around $1000 when the US dollar was really good so around the $1200 mark now i would say. They are a damn good investment and as dcieve says its showing alot of different readings to the so called hottest cylinders being claimed on here, i think people underestimate the difference is cylinder temps across the board. A rebuild from melted pistons cost me $4000 im sure $1200 isnt much to ask when your pushing a motor pretty hard.

good results paul, definately a more track friendly setup than the old turbos. I wouldnt mind seeing a comparision to Cerberas dyno as well with the t04z.

lookin good darren about time you got that front end conversion finished its been a while Colour is good choice, bayside blue has been done to death and as you said of all the choices to go with a factory nissan colour would be a waste. Definately gonna get some looks now!

sydneykid knows what he is on about, he isnt someone who says something without experience with the parts in question. The 5kw difference is the difference between a regular dyno run i wouldnt read into it at all, the throttle body would have to be the last possible modification i would ever consider, its gonna gain bugger all. Its a pretty easy path to make decent power, unless you have done all them i definately wouldnt waste your time.

id be lookin at attessa system as well, its definately not too much power i had alot more and only spins 1st gear and a touch of 2nd in 4wd with street tyres (11.3 @ 124mph at drags on 235/17 street tyres). Was the clutch packs replaced since the 4wd was right and now its not or did they get replaced and 4wd was fine and then suddenly started playing up?

stagea motors have the bolt patterns for both sumps so a 2wd sump will bolt on