unique1

very very interesting info rob, definately good to bring that up i also cant beleive its not been mentioned! My rb26/30 with 3076r is also struggling to make any decent power though im blaming other problems and yet to see if it solves it but cam timing is something i havent even thought of with this motor considering it was a throw together motor combo at the time and on the cheap. So could u possibly measure the lift at TDC and post it so i can check if mine is out? Im gonna go out and buy a degree wheel etc in the next few days anyway but if you could measure yours up i can check it asap.

out of most of the people i have seen at the drags there mph always comes very very close to the hp they are making when put into the drag calc using the cars proper weight, these cars are ranging from 200 - 600rwhp setups. I find the only ones to run seriously quick times for low mph are the transbraked auto setups but 99% of imports are manual anyway so not really worth a mention in here

for 1500kg (car and driver) to run 131mph needs around 580rwhp and for 129mph around 550rwhp, i definately think you making a fair bit more than 502hp to run those numbers thats for sure. a 131mph run says best time of 10.4

people with 300hp are the ones who say stupid comments like that i guess he thinks a 500hp car needs a gt45 to make the power lol. A 500hp car will smash a 300hp car everyday of the week im afraid unless your doing a carpark motorkana or something. Also Anthony i reckon you would be making more than 500hp at wheels to run 131mph, the dyno must be pretty low reading if the car is a full weight r33

Antilag.com from smiley "datsqik" (i think thats how its spelt).

dont the 30 pumps run the small oil pump drive though? im talking on the oil pump not the crank.

Last i heard it was supposed to be ready for the last hi tech titles (drag meeting) here in Perth, but the torque convertor didnt arrive in time and now the drag season is finished so its wait till late in the year now unless theres a test and tune in the mean time. This is just info i read on another forum so dont qoute me on this

MIKE your stagea looks hot as, love the nice offset wheels too! pity more stageas dont have aggressive offset wheels it makes all the difference to the look.

its a 0.81 and i dont know about the turbine split i cant say i have looked that closely and the turbo is bolted to the motor at the moment so i cant check. The motor is a 2.7L jun kit and everything is aftermarket internally in block and head, pretty major porting work too and big cams. Ive heard of better response on rb26s than that but yet to see proof myself.

lol ive done about 500 spark plug changes before and never had an issue, i have done them for the past 5 years on the previous rb26 and no dramas ever on all my cars. Used the same tools and all so who knows.

The t04z car he is talking about is mine and its a hks to4z twin scroll running a twin scroll trust manifold, the setup wasnt 100% i must admit, its always had ignition dramas on the setup and will be sorted soon enough as im changing ecus and ignition. I was getting fullboost of 18psi around 4300rpm and has made 585rwhp on that setting on pump too, a conservative tune was around the 560rwhp mark which is how it was when Dcieve went in it. It has always been struggling after 7000rpm due to ignition problems so its got plenty more in it. I havent been in his 35r equipped car yet because hes too busy workin, but from what ive seen its an animal and should smash into the mid 10s easy at the drags when he gets the chance and can keep the axles together. Also the qoute by r33 racer on power is very true. The t04z is an animal of a turbo and i went in a mates 32 gtr the other week with 430rwhp and it felt like a slug lol, back in the day 250rwhp was crazy. Now i have a rb26/30 with 3076r and its a pure slug i cant stand it, im going to upgrade asap

Im having this annoying problem on my 26/30 at the moment and i originally thought it was a one off problem and its happened on 3 different sets of plugs now. The porcelain on the top of the plug keeps cracking away. It looks like its starting to crack from the top down. I assume its heat related but the motor is running with no coilpack cover, afr's are mid 11s and pretty conservative timing numbers too, its only running a pair of stock gtr twins and previously ran a single gt3076r as well. Its got stock 26 coilpacks, and ecu is an Autronic smc. Im also making sure i dont tighten the plugs too tight too as i thought that was possibly the cause, so i have got 2 different people to install them and they all have same problem. I cant remember what cylinders it did last time but it was on 2 of them and this time i found the worse cracked one on cylinder number 1 and then the other on cylinder 4, i dont know if its happening on the same cylinder each time. any ideas whats causing this? anyone had the same issues? These are BCPR7ES ngk's too heres a few pics....

ive cleaned 2 different sets on 2 different rb26s and never had an issue, sounds like all your doing is cleaning all the built up stuff around the throttle plate which is sealing it 100% and then when u install it with a slight leak around it just needs a slight adjustment of the idle valve to suit, though on both of mine i have never had to touch the idle valve and its perfectly normal. i would like to see proper proof of this "coating" which is not visable in the slightest when looking at them.

lol unfortunately i havent got his dyno sheets or drag slips or i would

i think i do mate, and the actual dyno he used is known to be very low reading as well, it would make around the 550rwhp+ mark (417rwkw) on most dyno dynamics dynos in Perth . Its in a r31 and runs 131mph on the one pass he did before he broke the axles. I aint making it up its proven put the cars weight in the drag calc (around 1440kg or so with driver from his last weigh in) and it says 420rwkw for 131mph! The drag calc is almost spot on for every other car ive put in.

cheers Paul

Hey mate yes it is possible to run in 2wd using a 2wd sump BUT it might requires a modification to the 2wd sump around the oil pickup area im not 100% sure (just check if the pickup is in same position on 2wd and 4wd blocks and if so then your good to use it). Next u need to take the cv joints out of the front axles (closest to the hubs) and rebolt the stub axles back into the hubs as these hold the wheel bearings in and then just leave the front driveshaft out and bolt the gearbox back on the motor as per normal. I also think u need 2 lower brackets for the bottom bellhousing bolts but not really a necessity. thats about all, but it will work i run a 2wd rb30 bottom end in my 4wd stagea and its fine

drag calc says 525rwhp to do 127mph in a 3260 pound car (which is roughly what it would be with the numbers u gave).

Dcieve on these forums made 400rwkw on a 0.8 gt35, it had abit more than 19psi but they can definately make the numbers and from the best of my knowledge his doesnt have any headwork at all, only a set of poncams.

haha nah its a heavy arsed stagea with light weight driver

A laggy motor will show zero lag if launched hard enough at drags and 99% of them wont drop boost between gears either (unless its something that doesnt come on till 6000rpm etc). Maybe a 5th gear roll on yer but from standing start no chance. I run a t04z and car is hopeless below 4k rpm but at the drags it launches like a rocket and not one hint of lag and the time refects that. Maybe running a gt47 or twin gt3540s or something, but not a 500hp car which is gt35 or t04z territory. mine weighs 1750kg and does 124.6mph, dyno shows 560rwhp.

Sorry to post in here but DirtGarage can u clear your pm box (ive tried pm'ing you for last 3 days without any luck) as its full or alteast check your pm's regarding the money and pm i sent 10 days ago (14th april) thanks mate

ill be keen the stagea is officially licensed and legal now i just need a check on the tune as its now running the stock twins again and ill be ready. Give me a few weeks atleast and im in mate unless something happens to the car between now and then.

ok now i have the seat and headroom is limited with a helmet and cagework so i have cut out the brace that runs infront of the drivers seat and am going to mount it directly to the floor using OMP fixed seat rails. Now im trying to work out the best way to mount it onto the floorpan so its stiff and secure. anyone got any pics of how they mounted theres besides using the factory sliding seat rail setup? i got a few ideas but some other peoples ideas wouldnt be a bad idea

lookin good, i also have a silver s1 with 33 gtr rims, just get some sideskirts and its set