nfi

springs will cost around 300 for two to get eibachs. make sure you get the shocks revalved to suit or it will still be horrible and either under but more likely overdamped.

Further to SiksII's post.... "I ended up using two feet on the brake pedal" ROFL!!! Clearly everyone can see this is the definition of 'brake fade'!!!

Absolutely... I would suggest the scaling on the dyno graph is incorrect or the ramp speed of the dyno was set very slow. Next time you drive the car watch the tacho in say 3rd gear when you can actually watch the transition and see when it hits full boost and when it starts really going. That will be the point its actually making peak torque. Wherever peak torque is, you'll have bucket loads of pull. I would be very surprised if -5's were pulling at 3800rpm. Let me know when you have a chance to feel on the road where it actually picks up. Remember on the dyno you can create excessive load that you would never see on the road making boost ramp up far quicker than it could on the road.

Yep the -7's are smaller. Hence they come on boost earlier but make less than the -5's in the top end.

Sounds good donkey. For those interested this has been my experience on r33 gtr's. Standard turbos are all in by ~3500rpm GTSS- ~3700rpm 2860-7 ~4000rpm 2860-5 ~4600rpm These figures are when the car starts really moving, not just when full boost is just reached as there is usually a slight delay. Some people may have made them slightly more responsive with tuning. Anyone managed to better these? If so, with what supporting mods/cam timing etc?

They look familar... Can I guess you bought them from a guy in qld? If so then I think you will find they are about 14kg/mm. You can just get some lighter spring rates and have them revalved to suit providing the internals are still in good nick.

You are getting the numbers round the wrong way! The lower the offset the more they stick out. The wider the rim the more they stick out so the higher the offset for them to sit at the same point relative to the guard. 18x10.5 +15 is perfect on an r33gtr. Your 18x10 +12 will sit really nicely I think.

To help put in context, what times are you doing round Mallala?

Of those people that have used cams what have you found with 300-330akw? I read that some of the guys in VIC actually went back to stock while still making decent power. Its hard to comprehend cams with similar duration and only more lift not helping the drivability but I am keen to hear from those that have actually done/been through it.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm r32 N1's are rubbish compared to the newer 33 N1's and even better the 34n1's. Link above will show you the size difference between all the common gtr twins.

Any news Dazmo? This looks like it will be a nicely set up car when its complete.

I thought all police looked for in Aus was for DOT approval. Thats why we can't use Neova's in Aus even though they are a great street tyre- no DOT approval. At least thats my understanding. If there is indicators and the tread depth is above it, and the tyres are DOT approved, from my understanding the cops have to accept it. Re Hoosiers- I am guessing the reason they had to put 'race use only' on them is because the sidewalls are so soft they may roll off the rims if you had to swerve hard on them... The kumho's in questions certaintly don't have that problem, however, they may have some slight issues in the wet.

That will be for the single plate not the twin plate.

I would first look at getting the swaybars as you can then change the characteristics of the chassis and they will make the biggest difference as they will also reduce body roll. When money permits I would go as wide as you can with wheels ie. 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.

I'm interested that you say above $3m is enough to get an ok 34. Most importers seem to quote about 10k on a car that expensive to have on the road, so I would assume that, that would still suggest 45k is enough to get an ok one. A friend of mine is picking his r34 gtr today that he imported himself. Its a 99 v-spec with ~80k bayside blue, he claims its in good condition and is a perfectionist and it cost him just under 3m yen. I recognise this is not the norm though.

I wouldn't worry about legality and rim width. Technically 19x9.5 +12 aren't legal either because they increase the track (outer measurement from the edge of the two rear tyres). You are definitely not likely to get busted for either because its too difficult for cops to remember and also its not 'top of mind' when defecting someone. The only way to be legal is to have sunken battle ship offset which looks really crap (like stock) and 1inch wider and bigger rims. In which case you will look like you bought your rims from tempe!

This is a clean car I looked at it, when owned by the previous owner.

The knocking noise I would put money on it being lifter noise in the head which goes away once the hydralic lifters pump up and the oil thins a little. The smoke can be a worry. If its blue or white then its a sign of either the turbo seals, valve stems or headgasket being on its way out. If its black or brown then its just fuel.

That would be it Thanks Gary. Especially given the standard engine orientation (east west).

I saw at lotus that sounds similar to this at wakefield late last year. It had an s2000 motor supercharged. Do they qualify for superlap given they have had a transplant?

FWIW Revving an rb25 to 9krpm is not a good idea... It will screw your head (bend a valve due to valve float) and wear out your rings... The engine just isn't designed to rev that hard. Also, if you still have the stock turbo the car would be faster if you actually changed gear at the redline because the power curve will peak at about 6000rpm and well and truly tapering off at 7krpm let alone 9krpm.

FWIW- The rims in your first post are different to the ones in the picture on the car. The ones at the top are 57f while the second pic on the car are 57F pro's.

Watch every season of top gear and you will understand the 'soul' a car can or cannot have. Imagine, having driven all the supercars the world has produced. Then try to imagine the varying engine notes, handling characteristics, differences in 'feel', turn in, power delivery, torque delivery, brakes in addition to the asthetics. Any these factors can completely change your perception of a car. With supercars it is even more extreme because the whole car is so extreme and often compromised. When you have driven all the best super cars you will start to want more... the x factor. Sort of like how some women all the guys want. There is nothing you can put your finger on as to why... She might not even be the prettiest girl around. They just have an appeal. For cars that is the engine note, the way you sit, the way the power is delivered, how the car makes you feel, what it looks like. These factors all give it a 'soul'. The new GTR I have only sat in and while I would really like one it is currently a bit too refined which causes it to lack soul. Think about a heavily modified GTR vs a standard one. The modified one: The engine note, the look, the lumpy idle, the presence all give it soul. The standard one: All quiet, refined, well behaved and comfortable. I think that sums it up. If you don't get it now your probably not going to get it.

White smoke= burning coolant/water Blue smoke= burning oil Brown/black smoke= running rich btw 12:1 I wouldn't call on the rich side. 12.5:1 is the ideal mixture for power and leaves no headroom for a bad batch of fuel or a sticky injector. I prefer to run high 11's. Lose a couple of kw and save the bottom end while still having an engine that is efficient.

For what its worth, r34 gtr suspension should not really be fitted to r33 gtr's even though it fits. The valving is very different due to the weight, wheelbase and track differences...